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I just recently acquired this car with no transmission after installing transmission it is shifting roughly and the engine is very loud after I've welded on exhaust I noticed some missing holes in the intake when the heads I am putting a picture there when I cover these holes it gets a little quieter so I am wondering what is suposed to be there. Previous owner said he upgraded cams cold air intake ect
Those are where the air injection pipes went from the smog pump. Another PO strikes again. I wouldn't believe for a minute that car has uprated cams in it. If it did and he did it, I'd be very afraid! Your also missing the pipe on your fuel rail temp switch.
Those are where the air injection pipes went from the smog pump. Another PO strikes again. I wouldn't believe for a minute that car has uprated cams in it. If it did and he did it, I'd be very afraid! Your also missing the pipe on your fuel rail temp switch.
Thank you, so should i plug the holes or replace with original parts? I was very skeptical to the work he said he did, but it is a lot faster than my other v12 jag
Thank you, so should i plug the holes or replace with original parts? I was very skeptical to the work he said he did, but it is a lot faster than my other v12 jag
Plug them ASAP with something metal. The holes actually go through the inlet manifold casting directly to the exhaust port just downstream of the valve. They are a bit dangerous as is, I would think.
Greg
Not to mention that the claimed cold air intake is actually a hot
air intake. It breathes air from the engine bay. Particularly not cool
in the crowded bay of these cars!!!
Thank you for comments i was thinking about changing air intake and running it to highbeam lights.
I will try the set screw after i try the bolt and nut i ordered that where next to the hole in the pic
What Is the blue tube? If you remove the smog pump and air injection lines and plug holes in intake do you need to do anything else? Does that change anything with the fuel air mixture etc? I live in place where smog items don't have to on so I'd love to free up the extra space under the hood, the weight of the system itself and maybe free up any extra HP running the system requires. I think there is a "jokey pulley" off a older jag you can use in place of the air pump...anyone know exactly what all to remove and what is required to install if you want to remove all Smog stuff?
Blue tube is just part of crankcase breather system.
By the looks of it you have not got a/c compressor fitted and from memory the air pump ran off the same belt as a/c in which case you won't need an idler pulley.
Another quick fix for air injection holes is simply plugging them with sealed pop rivets of suitable size.
I believe they were 8mm. I just took one of the air pipe bolt-down plates into a big box hardware store and picked ones that would just fill the hole once it was tapped. I have a labeled bag of extras somewhere. I'll check.
It need not be a precision job. As you're tapping the holes your tap will determine your screw. In a pinch? I'm pretty sure JB weld would do. It's not under extreme pressure from the exhaust. And most of mine were securely sealed up with black carbon.
Appearance-wise I would love some new solid bolt-down plates because I still have the holes in those. Maybe cast aluminum with a nice curved top so you can polish em up. Any of you guys have a CNC machine?
Yeah, that is my way of thread matching. Just take a sample down to the hardware store. Our local ACE stores have great selections.
More:
1. If you pipe in air from the high beam lamp ports, do you risk getting busted one way or another? Cop on the road. Some states
have brake and light inspections. And O'seas, busted for sure....
2. Although not ideal, my V8 uses a similar system. As it isn't a racer,
a bit less HP is far from an issue.
3. Button head screws look near. But, I just like Allen heads. I've swapped in more than a few in my car. Beats, slots, Phillips, Torx and Pozi!!
4. Way back, I deleted a similar air pump from my 69 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser. Not present on 68's. I figured I had enough paper work to indicate it was a 68 build, but a 69 registration.
I cut the flare nuts off the tubes that plumbed in to the manifold. Then drilled and tapped them for Allen's. Just in case I had to reinstall the junk. neglected to consider I no longer had tubes that were intact.
It worked. SMOG tech had no issues.
Did a similar process with a 66 Mustang with a 65 build date.
The pump in my lump is electric. Other than a bit of clutter, harmless.