XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

1989 XJ-S, a renovation project, epilogue

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  #81  
Old 01-09-2017, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ericjansen

- One out of the 12 yellow caps has a crack, seems old one.
Is this a reason to replace the injector, or how does that work?

That's just a pintle cap Eric, available as part of refurb kit as Greg mentioned. The filters will also be part of kit, remove them with self tapping screw and pliers.
 

Last edited by baxtor; 01-09-2017 at 03:26 AM.
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  #82  
Old 01-09-2017, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by baxtor
That's just a pintle cap Eric, available as part of refurb kit as Greg mentioned. The filters will also be part of kit, remove them with self tapping screw and pliers.
Pintle cap ... an other word learned ...
Thanks for the advice, I will check into the kit once I am ready to order in some weeks, seems such kit is exact what I will need.
 

Last edited by ericjansen; 01-09-2017 at 05:06 PM. Reason: question deleted
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  #83  
Old 01-10-2017, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Daim
That is hard, as I lost my job last November... So I am struggling quite hard...
Don't get downhearted Daim, you could make a Fortune Servicing other peoples Jags, as people who really know what they're doing are really hard to find.
 
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Old 01-10-2017, 03:34 PM
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Hi Eric

It wasn't me with the Sexy Gloves!

I hate wearing gloves except when I'm working on the XJS with a FBH and a Chisel, which when I think about it, is nearly all the time!
 
  #85  
Old 02-10-2017, 02:40 AM
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Default 1989 XJ-S, a renovation project, lonely in a garage …

While you guys are having fun discussing classic radios, air compressors, air tools, and what the more (I have serious problems catching up on some threads), my life is limited to a dark basement without windows ...

I guess I have spent some 20 hours by now, cleaning centimeter after centimeter, and finally some results start to show.

Hoping that with an other couple of days of this forced labor, I will get to the make-or-break moment of removing the spark plugs and …

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  #86  
Old 02-10-2017, 05:26 AM
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Looking good mate! Just wait until you try to clean the underside
 
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  #87  
Old 02-10-2017, 05:32 AM
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That Eric, is a really really good job. For me, cleaning the V was the worst job by far on my rebuild, and I had the engine out of the car! I can only guess how grim your task has been. Respect from us all. Now, chuck away that stoneage compressor and treat yourself to a nice new Sanden! Makes subsequent plug changes a decent bit easier (not actually easy, mind, but easier).
Greg
 
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  #88  
Old 02-10-2017, 06:20 AM
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After seeing that, I am not happy with my V area! That is a must do before I fit my sparkling parts again As said, Eric, I'm competing now!
 
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  #89  
Old 02-10-2017, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Daim
After seeing that, I am not happy with my V area! That is a must do before I fit my sparkling parts again As said, Eric, I'm competing now!
If YOU, of all people here on the forum, are scared, then that will be my best motivation for the week to come.
Anyway, you are going to loose
 
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  #90  
Old 02-10-2017, 08:07 PM
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Default Compressor

I was thinking of removing the airco compressor and some of the hoses for the duration of cleaning and working on the engine (or perhaps replace it altogether, as suggested by Greg).

Now I have some common knowledge of engines, but rather nothing of AC systems, other than the basic working and the existence of a low and high pressure system.

I am not sure if the system is still filled, but after 5 years of not using, I doubt there is a lot of pressure in the system.
Knowing that the car is in B2 basement, and can't be moved to a specialist, how should I proceed (or better leave it alone ...)?
 

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Old 02-10-2017, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ericjansen
I was thinking of removing the airco compressor and some of the hoses for the duration of cleaning and working on the engine (or perhaps replace it altogether, as suggested by Greg).

Now I have some common knowledge of engines, but rather nothing of AC systems, other than the basic working and the existence of a low and high pressure system.

I am not sure if the system is still filled, but after 5 years of not using, I doubt there is a lot of pressure in the system.
Knowing that the car is in B2 basement, and can't be moved to a specialist, how should I proceed (or better leave it alone ...)?
momentarily depressing one of the shraeder valves on the lines close to compressor will indicate whether or not the system is still pressurised without causing any issues.
 
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  #92  
Old 02-11-2017, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by baxtor
momentarily depressing one of the shraeder valves on the lines close to compressor will indicate whether or not the system is still pressurised without causing any issues.
Baxtor, so I push-pressed both shreader valves , they both release pressure.
So, now what to do you advise next ?
 
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  #93  
Old 02-11-2017, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ericjansen
If YOU, of all people here on the forum, are scared, then that will be my best motivation for the week to come.
Anyway, you are going to loose
I won't be loose Your trousers will be!

Haha...

I don't get scared, I am just forced to up my quality of work
 
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  #94  
Old 02-11-2017, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ericjansen
Baxtor, so I push-pressed both shreader valves , they both release pressure.
So, now what to do you advise next ?
system at least has pressure so it may even be operational. Up to you whether to decommission it or leave it alone.
 
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  #95  
Old 02-11-2017, 04:05 AM
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IF you decide to empty in the garage Eric, make sure it is WELL ventilated and that you protect your eyes. What ever is in it (R12 or R134a) can be a severe health hazard - let alone is lethal for the atmosphere...
 
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  #96  
Old 02-11-2017, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by baxtor
system at least has pressure so it may even be operational. Up to you whether to decommission it or leave it alone.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Daim
IF you decide to empty in the garage Eric, make sure it is WELL ventilated and that you protect your eyes. What ever is in it (R12 or R134a) can be a severe health hazard - let alone is lethal for the atmosphere...
Yeah, that was what I was thinking, I will not do that.
Do home AC units have the same connectors (it is R12)?
Is it an idea to get one of those guys empty the system environmental friendly?
Is it bad for the system to be empty for a year, or does it not matter?
 
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  #97  
Old 02-11-2017, 04:24 AM
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The systems normally use the same connectors. A friend of mine (AC expert for buildings) drained my R12 in my old 960 about 10 years ago with his normal kit... So that should be possible.

My system has been empty for around 3 years now... The only thing you'll want to replace is the AC drier... They don't cost much and sit on the radiator crossmember (on top). So leave it open and when you get to have the system regased, make sure they build a LONG vacume to drain really all the crud and then use proper mineral oil based oil for the AC compressor... Then all will be fine.
 
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  #98  
Old 02-11-2017, 04:39 AM
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Thanks very much, Daim!
Summer is waiting around the corner here, so a good time to get that guy here anyway.
I am sure he never did a XJ-S .
 
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Old 02-11-2017, 04:48 AM
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Always give him a ring first before you simply order him round...

And you might want to see if he can determin what is in your system. R12 is technically banned, even though some AC specialists can still supply some rests... R134a is standard but it's days are also counted in the car sector...
 
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  #100  
Old 02-11-2017, 05:39 AM
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No worries, he has to come for our house airco's anyway.
Although I have the heater on right now, it will be close to 30C by the end of the week, oh yeahh.

And I guess it is the original R12, it got stickers everywhere of it.
If he can't do it, I am sure he know someone who know someone ...

I read some on upgrading the system anyway, and there are plenty of car AC shops here (the advantage of the tropics), so I will think about how to proceed in due time.

Thanks Daim, appreciated!
 
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