I'm new to Jaguars but always wanted one. We've found a 1989 XJS V12 coupe seemingly in very good condition and I wanted some advice as what to look for when viewing the vehicle. It is described as being in excellent condition, good Car Fax available, new tires and everything works. He did mention that if I wanted good cold A/C, I would have to change the compressor as the current one struggles in hot weather. Seems I've read that this is common to the car. I do all the work on my vehicles and am well equipped to do so. I have a big shop, a lift and all the tools I should ever need. I don't mind a challenge but I don't want something that is going to be a major headache. Thanks for any advice!

 

Welcome to the forums 67Camaro,

I've moved your question from Jaguar Forums Feedback & Suggestion Centre to XJS forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

If you've always wanted one, have the tools to fix it, and are in a position to spend money on it - I say go for it. You only live once!

 

You're the perfect candidate for XJS ownership !


At the top of this section there's a "How to" sticky thread. Click it, and you'll find a buyers guide. I suggest reading it then coming back here for more details.

These cars are great for a DIY hobbyist. There's a learning curve, yes, but internet support for old Jags is really good.

Cheers
DD

 

And if you want to know even more read "The Book".
The Book link
Edit: well that link is broken. I'll try to find another.
Try this:
The Book

 

Good luck with the purchase! (Whether this one or another one?!)

Don't take on face value the suggestion that it's the A/C compressor causing the problem. There are a variety of things it could be, but the radiator and other cooling system components are as likely, if not more so, to be the reason for poor aircon performance.

Cheers

Paul

 

Be aware that this car is now over 30 years old. It is very likely that all the rubber components of the suspension will be worn out, shock absorbers also, and that the brake components, will need a full overhaul.
The key thing on an XJS is the bodywork; all the mechnics are fixable. Look for rust in the rear wheelarches, the sills (USA speak = rocker panels), under the carpets, and in the tunnels each side of the boot that carry the rear silencers. If at all possible get the car on a ramp. Oil leaks will be there, but are not a worry.

 

I'm surprised that nobody has mentioned maintenance receipts. If the seller has evidence that he has taken care of the car during his ownership, that is a tremendous confidence booster. Likewise, lack of such receipts should suggest that caution be exercised.

 

Indeed.

"Proof of xxx-repairs" is mentioned a few times in the buyers guide referred to above.

Sadly-but-truly many of these cars have not rec'd the care they need. A lot of owners and repair shops are not aware of everything that needs to be done keep 'em in top condition. And.....for decades the market value was so low that people didn't want to pour much money into them. Servicing and repairs were reduced to the bare minimum; just enough to keep 'em running and driving but nowhere near enough to keep 'em really right.

An ideal purchase may be the car owned by a true Jag enthusiast who has taken the time to learn about the car and lovingly tended to all the long-neglected repairs. This is the seller who will proudly show proof of all the remedial work he has done....which is always the stuff that everyone in the past has overlooked. Such a car can often be a bargain for the buyer as sellers are seldom able to recoup more than a fraction the money they invested!

The upside to all this is that a well-sorted XJS is a dream to drive. There's something about them...a combination of qualities.... that no other car offers.

Cheers
DD

 

Maaaaan,,,, git it!

 

One thing you really won’t need to worry about is the engine or anything mechanical. They are all ultra well built. If you’re tempted to rebuild the engine, don’t! It has massive bearings. And I’ve never seen wear in the cylinders indicating the rings are worn out. That’s because the stroke is so short the piston speed even at factory red line is safely inside limits.
The EFI is really simple but lacks OBD2 to tell you what is wrong. In the following order replace with new and your ownership experience will be pleasant. Replace all the rubber hoses. Start at one end of one hose and trace it to the other end. Then replace. Do the next one. Do not tear every hose out at once. Next replace all the engine wires. You can either buy a whole new loam or make your own. With the wires over 30 years they will be brittle and likely corroded on some ends. The distributor needs a few drops of oil periodically. It’s on the owners manual but rarely gets serviced. The factory goes by mileage, I do it every 5 years. If not done regularly the distributor won’t advance properly and as a result the car will run hot but the engine is so powerful and smooth it’s unlikely you’ll detect it.
Next check the age of the rubber in the coolant system. 5 years is as long as I trust it. Then flush out the radiator. Antifreeze should be replaced every 2 years. Use 50/50 distilled water and antifreeze. Pressure test the system. Little tiny leaks or seepage can really add up. Make sure the radiator is clean. Inside and out. Often leaves and trash will get trapped between the radiator and A/C.
Get yourself one of those cheap infrared thermometers. It’s a great diagnostic tool. Aim it at each exhaust port and if they are all the same temp The engine is in fine shape. If one cylinder is cooler check that spark plug’s condition. If that’s OK then listen to the injector. I use a stethoscope but you can use a long screw driver. Listen for a steady click. If those are OK do a leak down test. That will tell you if it’s intake valve, exhaust valve or rings. If it’s rings. Chances are the ring is stuck not defective. Then you can do the typical ring freeing exercise. What works for me is the Italian tune up. Safest way is go to a drag strip that’s having a test and tune day. You can safely run it out legally. What you are trying to do is rev it up under load. Don’t abuse the transmission trying for a quick time. Just hold it in gear until it shifts ( it won’t go to redline)

 

[QUOTE=Mguar;2463276]Next replace all the engine wires. You can either buy a whole new loam or make your own. With the wires over 30 years they will be brittle and likely corroded on some ends.

My 1979 coupe has all the engine wires renewed because I put in a rebuilt HE engine. Some wiring in the engine bay is still OEM for things like lights . It is no longer flexible but does the job.

My 1988 Lucas ignition convertible still has original wiring. I very carefully checked the injector wiring when I bought it 12 years ago, that is a known problem. It is a bit brittle but still serviceable and I check it regularly.
One think fixed by the PO was the coax wire from the ignition amp to the ECU, that has a reported 100% failure rate. Marelli ignition has different weak spots.
It takes time to deal with all the things that might be wrong and need replacing. My vote would be on checking the injector wiring and coax, lubing the distributor and making 100% sure any hoses with fuel in them are replaced unless they look almost brand new. Maybe pull apart all those white rubber bullet connectors in the engine bay, clean and replace. Then drive the car carefully and get some enjoyment. Plan to take on board all the forum suggestions about what needs doing in a priority list for winter work.

 

This is one of the smoothest driving vehicles! Quiet, handles well for what it is, stops sure and true. It does have several issues. Passenger side power window not working, sunroof will not open, cruise control not working and the radio is subpar. Very clean and no rust evident anywhere. I'm making a list. Hoses, valve cover gaskets, distributor rebuild, coolant flush, electric fans are on the winter time list. We love it!

 

The YouTube channel Living with a classic provides excellent repair information. Adam, the presenter, utilizes readily available tools and does so in an easy to follow manner.
One resource is vehicles for sale by members.
I am torn between the coupe and convertible. Here in ME we have 9 months of winter and 3 months of bad sledding. Most people with classic cars have convertibles.
I wish you well with your search.

 

I have owned a dozen jaguars and I have loved them all, from sedans to coupes to Etypes to XK cars. I am taken by their design. Beautiful cars. Once you own one you too will be forever hooked! Your strongest attributes are your described shop and willingness and desire to get your hands greasy. Those characteristics will make your JAG ownership a lot of fun and rewarding.

The biggest potential concern is that big, beautiful aluminum 12 cylinder engine. There is a reason why many are replaced with GM easy to fix crate engines. When running well they are heavenly. Overheat one and your problems can get expensive. So, do everything possible to avoid overheating that engine. And if you are considering a purchase check out the engine thoroughly. Compression test is a must. If the engine gets a pass then buy the car. You can’t have more enjoyment in a car or a brand.

 

don’t buy it

 

Yes, compression test all 12, with and without oil added thru spark plug hole. Without oil, low compression can mean ring or valve leaking. Then with oil if compression comes up you have a ring problem. If compression does not come up you have a valve problem. Either means an engine teardown. Lots of work and very expensive to have a shop do it. But if you are game, while you are in there might as well do all the rings and valves and bearings and such.
While test driving an XJS I noticed a bit of roughness at idle, and it tested to be a bad valve in one cylinder and bad rings in another. Broke my heart. Shop wanted $10k to do rebuild.

 

[QUOTE=richardsjags;2463406] I can understand and even agree why you won’t have to replace everything I mentioned. You know Jaguars.
The OP isn’t in that position. Replacing the things I mentioned will give him confidence and knowledge making ownership a pleasure. Not something to fear.
The real advice is get a guy who does Jaguar work to look over his work when he’s finished. Actually I’ve learned more than a fair bit on this site. I’ve been working on Jaguars since 1962 and still pick up some things.

 

Do not trust a shop that tells you rings are bad. Stuck? Sure. Worn out nope! Stuck rings just need to be freed. Clean oil. Then run the car to the red line under load. Back off hard. Repeat and repeat. Worst case I ever had took a steady running down a drag strip. All day. Three cylinders were still a little sticky. So I told him to take it on a long trip and periodically drop it into 2 nd gear. Run it as fast as he dared and then shift back to high. It cleaned up for him and saved a rebuild.
That happens when oil isn’t changed on a time schedule rather than mileage. It’s false economy to fail to change oil every 6 months or less

The valve may be a case of built up sludge holding the valve open. Or deposits on the back side of the intake valve. If that’s the case add a few gallons of ethanol. Like E85. The alcohol does a nice job of removing deposits.
deposits are formed from failing to drive the car aggressively. Puttering around town. Letting it sit and idle in hot weather. Etc.
caution; alcohol while it really does wonders removing deposits, it leans out the fuel mixture. I use non Oxygenated fuel with the same amount of E85. And watch the temp. Normal is fine but when the temp is near the top go add more non oxygenated fuel.
But don’t give up on trying to clean the engine from deposits. E85 has between 52% & 85 % ethanol which is the best internal cleaning agent there is. Do not run Pure E85 though you will be about 20% too lean.

 

Mguar, is this mainly a concern for V12's, or is it a good thing for inline 6's, too? I've regularly had to buy ethanol fuel on a trip because there was no choice. But never a full tank, just enough to get me home, or to where I *could* get access to non-ethanol fuel. But I didn't *like* having to do it! Was I unknowingly actually doing some good for the car? And I don't have a local drag strip, so I have to chance letting her run out on a stretch of interstate. Never when there's traffic, and I may do the same 12-mile stretch back and forth, and hit it coming off the ramp. Not ideal, obviously, but I do what I have to. And there are worse ways to spend an afternoon. ;-)