1990 Jaguar XJS - No Lights on Dash, No Crank, Dead-ish
#21
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Hot glue... I like it. Not like epoxy (or something) which is harder and permanent. It is very likely I will have to be back at this thing considering it's condition after my barbarism at some point in the future. So anything "fix" has to be serviceable...
Thing is, hot glue would mean opening it again,,, and for reasons - well the whole thing/operation is pretty scary... Replacement cost can be high and for the 1990 I haven't seen any used on line. I think they are rare. All it would take is loosing a (super small) spring or completely cracking something,,,, I dunno
I was thinking, first, maybe I would try 2 zip ties,,, and then see the effect that would have on the seating of the unit against the wheel and the rotational PIN that comes thru the tumbler that actually turns the innerdz of the switch.
The wear & malformation of the plastic slot on the column facing side of the switch is the reason for all of the SLOP in my ignition key. Don't quite know if there is anything I can do about that either... This ol thing!
#23
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Greg in France (04-22-2022)
#25
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Really, I cannot believe it....
The entire time I've had this car the VOLT meter has run below 13v, well below in some cases. I thought that it was old and lazy, not functioning properly.
Today it runs above 13v, at the tiny line between the R and the M in "normal" on the gauge - and I can't pin point exactly what it is BUT,,, the car has a whole new life to it... Ya just DON'T know what ya DON'T know... And that's putting it mildly.
Thank you all for taking the time to think about this issue with me... Really!
ps... Grant,,, I was only joking - ya must know it...?
And a strong suggestion, as pointed out in the write-up for re-habing the switch (as I did thanks to Grant) OPEN THE SWITCH IN A LARGE SEE THRU ZIPLOCK BAG... It will save you from crawling around on the floor cursing and swearing looking for micro BITS, lol. It's a super right suggestion.
The entire time I've had this car the VOLT meter has run below 13v, well below in some cases. I thought that it was old and lazy, not functioning properly.
Today it runs above 13v, at the tiny line between the R and the M in "normal" on the gauge - and I can't pin point exactly what it is BUT,,, the car has a whole new life to it... Ya just DON'T know what ya DON'T know... And that's putting it mildly.
Thank you all for taking the time to think about this issue with me... Really!
ps... Grant,,, I was only joking - ya must know it...?
And a strong suggestion, as pointed out in the write-up for re-habing the switch (as I did thanks to Grant) OPEN THE SWITCH IN A LARGE SEE THRU ZIPLOCK BAG... It will save you from crawling around on the floor cursing and swearing looking for micro BITS, lol. It's a super right suggestion.
The following 2 users liked this post by JayJagJay:
Greg in France (04-24-2022),
orangeblossom (04-23-2022)
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