I purchased a 1990 XJS with a bad motor and no bonnet yesterday. Even before I picked up the car, I purchased the bonnet so I have that in my garage. Together with the car, I picked up an engine with a good bottom end but with issues with the cylinder head. The seller told me that it had a dropped valve but no other info. The engine turns over freely but I was told by a member of this forum that if the engine had a dropped valve it will not turn over 360 degrees because the dropped valve will hit the piston and stop turning. Since it turns over, I rotated the engine about 3 revolutions and that turned out fine. I am thinking that he meant a dropped valve seat. I am going to remove the heads from the spare engine and see what is going on with it. If the bottom end is good, I will remove the heads form the engine in the car and build one engine.
The car's VIN is:SAJNW584LC168696.
I need to purchase a complete gasket set for the engine since I will be dropping the oil pan to inspect the bearings.
Is there a gasket set that would have all the necessary gaskets from TOP to BOTTOM?
I need some guidance here so I can purchase the gaskets, O-rings etc.
I ordered 2 set of head pullers from Jaguar Preserve so that I can pull the head from 4 points instead of just two points.
Also, do I have to remove the cam box? This is the first time I am removing heads from a V12 so I need some advice.
Here are some pics of the car.

Bonnet

 

Sanchez
Manners sell complete engine gasket sets. Probably others too. You must have genuine PAYEN brand head gaskets in the set. No others.
The ofical Jaguar XJS Repair Operations Manual is what you need.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353574553...h_q2BZA&edge=0
or
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134686822...h_q2BZA&edge=0

 

I disagree regarding brand of gaskets. There is a brand called Cometic(sp?) that I’ve had excellent results with on my race cars. Considering the stress/heat they go through in racing, that’s about as good of an endorsement as there is. Also with all paper gaskets use Hylomar sealant. The head gaskets I use Copper antiseize ( and exhaust gaskets). I also use antisieze on the exhaust manifold studs.
Fill the coolant system with a good dose of radiator clean out. Before attempting to remove the heads. Let it sit for a few days and then flush it out. Keep repeating until the water is clean.
By removing the built up crud around the studs you won’t have a hard time pulling the heads.

 

The extra engine I picked up is also a 1990 but came without the intakes and all the associated stuff in the V. The PO was stripping it down to do exactly what I am going to do.
What I have is the completely untouched bottom end with the heads attached.
Yesterday, I removed all of the Nuts and washers that hold the cylinder heads on together with the coolant rails. The exhaust manifolds are still attached.
On removal of the head bolts, I saw what everyone was talking about. The black crud around the cylinder head studs. I am going to wire brush those areas clean and apply some kind of penetrant before attempting to pull the heads. I won't be receiving the pullers I purchased until some time next week. I will figure out a way to block the open coolant system and fill it up with some kind of cleaner. Maybe I will re install the 2 coolant rails I removed to block those passages and go from there.
Besides regular penetrants, what kind of concoction are you all using to help with the crud?
Thanks.

 

I see you first of all put down a refrigerator box against spots on your floor.
What kind of Jaguar Garage is that??!
Isn't part of the Authentic Jaguar Experience rolling around on an oily floor??

 

Use radiator flush. No it can go right in the water jacket. You don’t need a radiator. Tip the engine up on the flex plate. Tape up the water rails. If the water pump is off just pour it in each side

I’d use 2 cans on each side. Then top it up with hot water. Let sit a day or 2 and flush out with a hose. Repeat until water comes out clean.

 

@LnrB Don't stress it. I save as many big boxes as I can in my shed. Periodic changes are necessary. Notice that the cardboard on the floor has no oil stains because I park the H&E XJS there. No oil leaks whatsoever. However, my Series 3 has a PS leak. No engine oil leaks but it is lumped.
@Mguar Thanks for the tip. Will do that tomorrow.
Now for the good part. The PO started to disassemble the engine in the car to pull it out. Being me, I am going to put it all back together to see what is really happening with the engine. The only info I have is "HEARSAY"
1.I reinstalled the radiator and connected all the hoses pertaining to that.
2. I am in the process of reconnecting the fuel rail and the injectors but they cut all the lines to the injectors so I have to purchase the proper size hose 7mm or 7.5mm?? and the associated ferrules for the hose ends.
3 Laying the injector rail on the engine, I connected the fuel feed line to the rail (that hose has to be replaced).
On the return side there is no FPR. Could I go directly from the fuel rail to the fuel return line or do I have to install the second FPR on the passenger side. What size hose do I need for the feed to and return from the fuel rail?
There are other items disconnected but those are easy. Please let me know how to proceed.

 

On a LHD car, the passenger side is the fuel feed side. The drivers side is the return. You don't need the regulator on the passenger side.

Jon

 

Go to Camp Chaos, Robert has a great set of videos on exactly that process.

 

@jal1234 I never knew that the feed on the XJS is on the passenger side. Thanks for telling me. The car has a FPR on the left side. There is no FPR on the right side of the car. I guess it was removed by the PO. All I have for the fuel supply side is a piece of line with rubber hose in between which is screwed into the fuel rail. Looking down at the bulkhead, I see the fuel line with a piece of rubber hose attached. The hose is about 5 inches long so I guess it was cut by the PO.. If I am not mistaken, the fuel feed line has a barbed end. I can remove that piece of hose and remove the piece that attaches to the rail and make up a new hose directly from the fuel feed line to the fuel rail. Is that how it is done when the right hand side FPR is eliminated?
What size EFI hose is being used for the fuel supply and return?
I also have to make up the hoses from the fuel rail to the injectors. I have been checking on line but all I see is a kit that uses clamps. I am not seeing a kit with the ferrules. Another thing is that they are offering 5/16 hose as the replacement but the actual size is either 7mm or 7.5 mm. The 5/16 hose will not fit as tight on the barbed ends as the proper size hose hence the reason for using clamps which would cause the sharp barbed ends to cut into the hose. Where in the US can I find the proper size hose?
@Mguar I did as you suggested. Engine sitting on flywheel filled with radiator cleaner. I used 4 quarts and topped off with hot water last night. I will leave it sitting for a few days before I flush it out. Also, someone suggested to reinstall the accorn nuts half way down and tap on the nuts to vibrate the studs to help loosen the crud. What say you?

 

Here's a picture of how I did my '87 regulator delete. I took one of the barbed fittings off the old setup that matched the fuel rail fitting.


The hose from the metal fuel line to the rail steps down in size. I used a metal hose reducer

to step it down.

I used US hose on the injectors, but don't remember the size. I didn't use clamps, just the stock "caps" at each end as shown. I didn't find any metric hose, I used Gates Barricade hose. Works well.

Jon

 

"The hose from the metal fuel line to the rail steps down in size. I used a metal hose reducer"
Do you remember what size reducer? Is it 3/8 to 5/16 or?

 

I think so, but I'm not sure.
Jon

 

Tapping on the top of the head studs is usually used before you remove the complete stud.
While it certainly won’t hurt and might possibly loosen up some of the build up. To work without distorting the threads you’ll need to remove the washers and make sure the acorn nuts are bottomed out completely.

 

@jal1234 where did you find the caps (ferrules) for the fuel injector hose? I am searching for them but no luck.

 

Welsh.
https://www.welshent.com/Fuel-Emissi...leeve-Hose-SET

 

https://injector-rehab.com/product/ferrule/

 

Thanks for that info both of you.
@ Greg in France : You posted that Manners Group has a Complete Gasket Set for the 1990 Jaguar XJS. I need every single gasket and O-rings for the engine. Do you have their website and or phone number. I looked them up on the internet and it is showing various sites in different places in England. I also checked and they have the gaskets for sale separately. I think I should rephrase what I want.
1 Conversion Gasket Kit for the bottom end and and 1 kit including all of the gaskets and valve seals for the top end, if that is how they sell them.
Another thing, you had posted more than a few times about replacing the oil feed O-rings as they tend to lose their flexibility. How many are there and where are they located?
Thank you for your response

 

This is the engine I am rebuilding.

 

SAnchez

Call Jack Weston at Manners (011 44 121 5431629), he's a Very nice fella by the way, or email him at
jack.weston@davidmanners.co.uk

The two oil pipes are fixed to the oil pump. One bolts up with a small gasket at one end and the other end, and the other pipe have O rings. Jaguar have them and Manners might. But any O ring, preferably Viton ones of the right size will do.






This is on a bypass oiling system, your internals if full flow, will be slightly different indetail but essentially the same.