Hello All.

So, the owner of the car and property came back from Florida giving me another crack at "Crabapple" (I needed to come up with a nickname >> OB gave me the idea, lol)... When and IF the time arrives "AppleSpice" will be her reborn name :-)

I learned a little more about the C.A. today. The car was purchased almost 10yrs ago by the guy who's giving her to me... C.A. was running and running well (so I'm told) up-until 3 1/2 years ago and was finally parked. Then, (3 1/2 yrs ago) an avid car collector purchased the car from the guy that's giving C.A. to me,,, and was driving it. These two have an unusual relationship as one guy (they both have money and love the hobby and weirdness of this) purchases all of these cars (jags, porsches, mercedes, alphas, ferraris etc - all makes and models - the rare-r the bettah) on auction, stores them in his backyard and tinkers - for fun. Doesn't even have a driver's licence. Has a mint ferrari in a trailer in the yard right now.... The other guy appears from Mississippi every so often, buys what he likes, restores them almost completely at local auto motor and body shops (spending many $1000's) and then drives them home to Mississippi. Go figure. I hear he has well over 250 cars on a large piece of property in ol Miss. Can't make this **** up, lol. SO - he was on his way to purchasing and restoring this car, registered it, transferred title, changed his mind and traded it back for another car that was in the yard, that he liked better. The car still has the Mississippi registration in the glove box from 4 years ago - saw it today!

As far as the floor on the drivers side. The way the car was stored, the roof was leaking on the drives side (unknown to the owner) for nearly all three + years its was covered. There was a puddle on the floor that stood until it ate thru and drained and, when it rained, just continued to sit and soak. Soaked then dry - soak then dry - for years - plus the moisture from the earthen ground. When the owner noticed he made a change and the leak was stopped but not the rusting. Hence the rust and rot in the photo. The surrounding floor framework is solid and will easily take a weld. The other side is solid... I did a fairly thorough inspection of the entire car today and spots that typically get bad (as thorough as possible as I cannot yet get under front sub and rear axle subframes) seemed tight, rust free and loveable... Car needs some love. .

I'll post a bunch of pictures. I can NOT say that I learned a LOT today, unfortunately. I will be back at C.A. tomorrow. I need to figure out what I need to DO to get fuel flowing thru these injectors. The ALARM - the alarm still beeps as soon as the battery is connected. As soon as the key is inserted and put to the "ON" position the beeping stops. Q: Could this be the cause of the injectors not operating?

1. I found the Marelli and Lucas ECU's today and they 'look' good,,, for what that's worth. I also have a spare Marelli MicroPlex.
2. I removed, cleaned connectors and reinstalled both coolant temp sensors & 1 air sensor today. The coolant system still had BRIGHT green and surprisingly perfectly clean coolant,,, it was low and car was not level and passenger side sensor was not "submerged" in coolant in its line. I added water, cranked engine and sensor is now "covered" in coolant in its line. I will completely flush coolant system once I get C.A. running. Will coolant sensors prevent fuel inj from pushing/pulsing fuel?
2a. Removed thermostat just so fluids will flow freely - during this phase of work rather than needing to be heated. Didn't want to deal with air pockets and such..
3. Removed and cleaned a weird "air" filter and outport at front of drivers camshaft cover. See pic.
4. Cleaned connections to "Power Resistor" at engine bay front corner.
5. Cleaned connections on Marelli ECU and Lucas ECU - Lucas was pretty corroded. Give me pause..
6. Pulled fuel rail and will rig up a plug system so I can test and clean individual injectors to the best of my ability (suggestions welcome). Ultimately will change them completely. For now I think I will buy some bulk hose. Saw some on Ebay. >>>> Is there a SECRET to remove injectors and hoses from rail???
7. Pulled a few spark plugs and they actually don't look bad,,, at all - WHAT A DEVIL of a plug situation in this engine!
8. Found several wires and plugs that seem to lead to nowhere... see pics. One I realized goes the driver's side air temp sensor at air intake and filter housing. (How vital is it that this sensor be working and will it disable Fuel Injection? Does it work like a MAF?)
9. Checked a bunch of fuses and fuse panels BUT I know that I am missing the location of some panels and will research locations. Any diagrams for fuse box locations in a 1990 xjs v12 with amp specs and "what for" would be wonderful!
10. Removed front wheels and have front end up on stands. I think the undercarriage was waxoyl sealed or freshly undercoated which made me squeal with delight.
11..... Just looking around what is a VERY unfamiliar engine structure and set up. Slightly intimidated but confident.

Suggestions as to WHERE I should be poking my nose are especially welcome...

Judgements based on the photos are welcomed as well... I cant say I know what "UGLY" is when it comes to this brand O machine. Not like you all...

Not sure if pictures took. If not here, I will send.

It goes without saying THANK YOU > THANK YOU > THANK YOU!!! In advance! Deep bows.

 

'CRABAPPLE"








Radiator space. Grimmy but ZERO RUST... Anywhere.




Under rear bumper... Zero rust...

 

Rear Subframe and Axil. Some scale but near zero rust..



Front Pass wheel well, suspension and sub frame. Is it waxoyl seal?


"WEIRD" filter. Not sure what it is. Attached to the drivers side camshaft housing and front of engine. Clean now. Both hosing and filter are, Siver-ish and cleaned up well.

 

These are wires I have no home for.... If you can lead me inthe right direction due to your familiarity with the underbelly of this beast,,, I will be forever in your debt, lol...


Dont know where these flat connectors go...


Know idea what this is and where it goes. I looked and looked.



Back near firewall, coming up over the throttle body seems to be part of the harnessing connected to/with the fuel system.


Drivers side floor..... AHHHHHH!!!

 

Seats will be replaced completely unless folks have better ideas???


Interior neeeeds love...


Are Marelli control modules grounded by seating? And, are they reliable?


Free spare microplex ECU...

 

i guess that an important question is if you have "somewhere" to store and work on this car, long term. If that's the extent of the serious rust issues, that might be nor be a deal breaker. Obviously this will be a lot of money, time, work, and hassle. It could turn into a very long term project. If worse comes to worse. you can always "give" it someone else! No guts, no glory!

 

That rust on drivers side looks pretty bad...

 

It is bad...

 

Forget it. That car will soak up thousands of USD before you are through and still be worthless. The interior is poor, the body is poor, the entire mechanicals will need rebuilding. Buy a better car that is a runner.

 

Hi JJJ

Since you've got the Fuel Rail off, there is no better time to replace ALL the Spark Plugs including the ones under the Air Con Motor.

Its all just so much easier with that Fuel Rail out of the way but even so changing those Spark Plugs took me all of 3 days!

If you don't change ALL the Spark Plugs now you will hate yourself later on, so best to get that job out of the way from the 'get go'

As for the Ignition Modules on the Closing Panel (Those Orange Gizmos) that sit on those Blocks of Alloy.

Those Alloy Blocks are 'Heat Sinks' and so the Ignition Modules need to be Bonded to those Heat Sinks with Thermal Paste.

Like you do when putting a CPU in a Computer, or they could overheat and burn out $100 a piece!

As for the Bleeping and Chirping 'I'm Guessing' your Car is fitted with an Immobilizer.

If your Key Ring has a 'Dongle' and the Bleeping and Chirping Stops when you put the Key In, then it has.

If so then it indicates that everything is OK in that department and won't prevent her from Starting.

What WILL prevent her from Starting is if the CTS 'Coolant Temperature Sensor' is Unplugged

Its just by the Oil Filler Cap and it looks like this:



The Coolant Temperature Sensor
She won't Start if this is Unplugged.

 

Good Morning OB...

Thanks - Just ordered the paste/compound... And a set of plugs. I was intending to change them out. And, I found two CTS sensors on this car... Is that right. Bank A & B?

Q: Whats the best way to remove FInjectors from rail? Cutting? Prying? Am I missing something?

I dont think I ever mentioned, C.A. "Crabapple" has just 60k miles.

Prior to yesterdays dive I did some reading and research, learned a little about xjs sensors. Question: If the coolant sensor is not submerged in coolant or, is not transmitting a signal OR, is "open" or the car is not reading it - whatever - is a possible result in shutting down the fuel injectors completely? What is the "shut down" mechanism for start prevention with the sensor fault - if any? Turning off spark to the coils and rotor? What? Everything I have read says it will or should be "over" fueling with a bad sensor... hmm

As far as I can see no fuel is the only (major) thing preventing the car from starting. Its not getting fuel. With test light, each lights 12 volts on FInjector leads BUT no "pulse" or blinking while cranking. Testing with the 2 pronged "noid" FInjector tester - nothing. No strobe-ing. I understood that it is a ground based system for firing fuel injectors. Is that correct? I will test the leads on for the coolant sensors today after work.

@v1Rok and Rivguy - although I absolutely DO appreciate the words of caution - at this phase I know there's a list of things which could, might, should rule out me accepting this FREE gift. *Free* being the key word. I cant afford to purchase another. If I could I might not (MIGHT not) be doing this... This is a labor of love and I haven't spent a dime, yet. I'll never spend thousands on this car and will do ALL of the work myself. I am looking to get C.A. running at this point. That's where I am right now. Investigating - which cant hurt. I was told something similar btw when I grabbed "BLUE",,, my light blue XK8,,, about 8 months ago with a dropped valve seat and other things and I have spent less than $600-$700 and she runs and is GREAT, all is good and I'm off to my next project.

@ Greg - there's not one spot of rust on the body - out or under, not one dent, ding and all of the chrome trim is still, chrome, without the flaking, peeling or bubbles one would expect to find on chrome, considering. The undercarriage, I am convinced, had been recently undercoated prior to sitting and as far as I can see,,, the underneath is in notably good condition --- less the drivers-side floor board, which I can purchase for less than $100 USD and cut and weld fairly easily... From the photo (the color of the car),,, pls understand that it hasn't been washed, even in the most basic way, other than by rain for years. Yes, its dull.

So, during this inspection/discovery phase --- with ALLLLL of your valuable experiences are there any workable suggestions, advice, pointers etc you think might be helpful considering where I am? I mean - some words of guidance...?

 

Hi JJJ

There is only one CTS and it is on 'B' Bank just by the Side of the Oil Filler with an Injector 'Type' Plug on it.

And while I have no idea how it works, what I do know is that the Car 'Won't' Start if it isn't in place.

As for the Injector Rubber Tubes, Cut them through with a Sharp Craft Knife down their length but don't damage the Metal Pipes inside.

You can buy a replacement pipe kit on ebay $100 but much cheaper to buy a length of Injector Fuel Pipe and make your own.

You will also need a set of Injector Square Cut Sealing Rings to seal the Injectors when you put them back in.

If you're not getting any fuel, have you checked that the Fuel Pump is working and that the Filter isn't blocked.

The Filter is abt $10 and the Fuel Pump is abt $30 both as cheap as chips, so worth replacing anyway.

I think there is a very good chance that some of your Injectors are blocked, I had 6 blocked on mine but cleaning them is very easy to do.

Have you tried a Tea Spoon of Petrol in the Air Box intake, just to see if She will fire but do not make a habit of that as it can wipe the Oil off the bores.

As for the Electrics Grant/Greg/Warrjon/Jig Jag are experts on this sort of thing.

 

Hi OB... Interesting. I removed and cleaned up something that looked like a CTS on the passenger side bank A (I'm learning its A), threaded into the coolant rail on the opposite side as well. It was marked (like the other side) "water" I believe. I will get a photo tonight and post.

BTW do you have any handy links for proper bulk hose and upper and lower sealing rings for fuel injectors? Also, I plan on rigging something up so I can test, open/activate and clean injectors while they are off the rail. Plug and battery hookup to activate.

Thanks for everything! :-)

 

Hi JJJ

Only one CTS as far as I know.

Although I don't have a link for the Hose, if you dial in Injector Hose on ebay you should find what you need as you have the USA Version.

As for the Injector Seals, some of the Companies in the UK charge £24 for 12 OMG! although I managed to find a Company that did 12 for £5. (in the UK)

Since you are going to Clean the Injectors, it may pay to get that done first before you put on the new pipes.

You just need a 9volt PP9 radio battery and a tin of Wynns Carburetter Cleaner.

Only give them One Second of Power or you might burn the Injector Coil out but it is very easy to clean them.

 

Marelli cars the CTS is on the A bank.

Marelli modules are Bosch and yes they are reliable.

That 2 pin plug is off the AC compressor.

 

The interior looks great!

No tears or splits in the seat - can't tell if the usual drivers side bolster is worn or not, but no biggie. No cracks in the dash either.

I would match the existing wood veneer closely as possible for the ski slope, radio surrounds, and instrument binnacle. Coupled with a proper cleaning, that interior will be stunning. Conditioning might restore much of the shape to the lower seat cushions and piping.

- remove seats
- clean surface muck with a stiff paintbrush or compressor
- wash thoroughly with woolite or dawn
- rinse till water is clear
- allow to air dry and repeat as needed
- touch up any scuffs or discoloration now
- allow to cure
- clean with your favorite product. I have used Leatherique, Lexol, Glyptone (I believe it's Glyptone that maintains the wonderful leather aroma, even after 20+ years)
- clean, remove excess, and allow to air dry.
- slather conditioner over every single leather surface
- wrap the seats, door cards, etc. in saran wrap or garbage bags and leave them out in the sun for a few days
- unwrap, remove excess conditioner and marvel at your interior.

If it's still not up to par, find out who the local car dealers use to spiff up upholstery, and use them. Or, sell the interior bits for way more than a couple bottles of Glyptone.

Carpets - if they're not shot, vacuum, wash, woolite. Although a new set of wool carpets is hard to beat.

[edit] I'm extremely partial to black interiors (and exteriors). Let me see if I can dig up some photos of mine...

first on the lot, then after a quick treatment - yes I know lighting, camera, is different - wasn't planning a before & after.




leather was dull, dry, borderline brittle



worn bolster again



note cracked ski slope, worn bolster, tired carpeting

OK and after pictures. Quick cleaning one weekend as prescribed above, except I didn't remove anything. I don't like shiny finishes - the photos just came out that way.




cleaning + burl T shifter



carpets out drying

 

Hmm. You say black but I was heading in the direction of cream or tan, lol... Looks (from photos) can be deceiving. I'm afraid I will have much work ahead to restore the interior...

Was looking at these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nearest-to-New-BARLEY-Center-Console-Assembly-1989-91-Jaguar-XJS-Convertible/371978655608?

And:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-XJS-Wood-DARK-ELM-Burl-wood-Ski-Slope-Console-1988-1993/172284131331?

Or: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-XJS-Wood-WALNUT-Burl-wood-Ski-Slope-Console-1988-1993/172392555438?

Question: The seller of the center console has not responded to me, yet... Do/will all "ski slope" wood console trim pieces (like above) FIT into all center consoles like the tan section above? I hope I described that right... Is "ski slope" design how they ALL are?

Thanks for your observations...
I also have some new pictures of the body and undercarrage (if you are interested) in this thread where Im working to figure out my "no fuel" problem. I need all the help and input I can get

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...o-fuel-184760/

Cheers

 

Hi, I was wrestling with adding photos when you replied. If it were me, I'd definitely clean it up first before making a decision. That doesn't look too bad (interior cosmetics only), but post more pics if you have em!

Ski slope. Good question as they are not all the same and vary by model year, convertible / hardtop / sunroof. Not as much as most cars since the XJS came fully loaded from the factory, but just enough that I would probably order a complete matching set from one of the vendors here. Mismatched interiors are ugh...

If you check auctions on eBay, compare original, HE, 89+, and facelift ski slopes. You'll see the differences between the eras. Then for fun check the different switch cutouts for convertible tops and dealer fitted sunroofs.

Will check out your other thread.

Cheers!

 

Ha! I just checked your other thread. I thought you were still on the fence about evaluating this cat, but the claws are already sunk deep!

Enjoy the process!

 

Haha Haha... Yes, you got that!

I've got to know she'll run. But yes, I'm very much in it. Just hope I can figure it out and,,, the black (yours) looks great! You've changed my mind and, I think you're right. I think there is something I can do with the upholstery thats there. Keep it moving.

Thanks for your encouragement