It looks as if I'm going to need to replace the ABS accumulator on my 1993 XJS. The relay underneath the passenger side dash has started clicking each time I press the brake pedal. If I press the brake hard enough while stopped the ABS/brake lights on the dash will come on.

Any tips on doing the replacement? It looks like a fairly simple job of relieving the pressure, twisting off, and twisting the new one on. Does anyone have the torque specs for the new accumulator? Is there a need to bleed the brakes after replacement?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

 

De-pressurise the brake system by pressing the brake pedal until it becomes hard - this could take between 2 and 20 times depending on the condition of the accumulator.

Remove the accumulator - it might be an idea to drain the fluid as when you remove the accum fluid will poor everywhere.

It's just a matter of screwing the new one on and tighten to 40-46Nm

While you are there may as well renew the fluid.

Here is a writeup I did on bleeding my system with a homemade pressure bleeder.

Jaguar XJS Restoration : How to bleed Jaguar XJS teves ABS

hope this helps

 

That helps immensely thank you. Is it necessary to put nylon thread tape or something similar on the accumulator threads?

 

It has an O ring seal just replace the O ring should be all you need.

 

Thanks Scrible for the tip on fitting a new O ring when fitting a replacement accumulator. However my problem is I can't get the old one off! I have 1991 XJS convertible. Tried copious amounts of WD40 and don't like to apply too much force for fear of breaking something. does anybody have any suggestions?
John

 

I used a heavy duty oil filter wrench on mine.

 

If its really difficult to remove the pressure may not be completely blead off. Pump the pedal some more and see if that changes anything.

 

I finally got my brake accumulator off by firmly anchoring the base with a spanner and then applying leverage to the Allen tool in the top. No oil leakage, I had pumped the pedal 25 times and don't forget to disconnect the battery first. Fitted the new one and ........it made no difference! Phoned the supplier to blow him up and he said to check it by gently inserting a narrow screwdriver in and if it goes in only about 2 cm (an inch) it is OK. If it goes right in, it is stuffed. So according to this test his was OK and so was my original one.

Can anybody confirm that this is correct? And if so, what else could the problem be. I had the usual symptoms of the brake light not going off for a minute or two after driving off and doing the same thing intermittently.

 

The test on the accumulator seems valid. Did you bleed the system after changing? Air in it on the fluid side causes to much pumping.

 

Where did you guys get the new accumulator from?

 

Thanks for the tip on bleeding the brake fluid after changing the accumulator.
I bought the accumulator from JAGARA SPARES in Sydney, Australia.

 

Hi Warren, Thxs for the link on how you bled your brake system. I can't see the photos - anyway you could upload again or send me the photos / article via email? icatterm@ford.com Many thxs

 

Sorry I do not have the photos. When I closed my PhotoBucket account I downloaded all the photos but the ones that had external links did not download and I lost them. Thanks PhotoBucket.

I am in the process of replacing front wishbone bushes again, so I have the brakes disconnected. I will re-do the photos as I put things back together and update my Blog.

It is pretty simple. I used a cheap spray pump bottle from my local hardware store like this one

https://www.bunnings.com.au/aqua-sys...r-kit_p2960992

I removed the wand and bought a rubber plug from same hardware store that fit tightly into the top of the reservoir. Inserted a brass fitting into the rubber and sealed it with Sikaflex.

Hope this helps

 

Thanks for your speedy reply Warren. I actually have a brake reservoir pressurizer bottle and gauge, I bought it from a Land Rover web site and use it successfully on my Defender and Disco - funny thing is that the reservoir thread on my XJS is the same at on my Disco!

What I wasn't clear about (and I thought the photo's might help) was I thought you were describing bleeding a part of the system upstream, prior to bleeding at each wheel. I think I might have let a lot of air get into my system by letting my Front passenger side brake line hang for a couple of days while I rebuilt the caliper that was seized and now I'm struggling to bleed the system from just the four corners and wondered if you bleeding upstream first and if you felt this important? Otherwise, I'm going to try again this weekend after fitting new calipers all round. I've also read conflicting info regarding if the ignition needs to be on when bleeding the front with the pressurized system or not? Many thxs for any help, Ian

 

Hi Ian

I've managed to find a Post I did quite a few years ago about Bleeding The Low Pressure Side Of The System, together with some photos which may hopefully be of help

As if the Reservoir ever ran dry, when you were Bleeding your Brakes, then Bleeding the Low Pressure side of the System is absolutely essential or you will be trying to Bleed the Brakes for ever and getting nowhere

On Paper this is a easy Job, except of course its never quite that Simple:

If you have a look round the Reservoir you will see a Braided hose that goes onto a Metal Pipe and this Metal Pipe runs right across the Rear Firewall from one side to the other

Where it then goes into another Braided Hose which in turn then goes into the Brake Pump

This Metal Hose that runs across the Rear Firewall from one side to the other is LOW Pressure Gravity Fed from the Reservoir to the Brake Pump

And this is where the Air Gets Trapped in the System and if this Air is Not removed then you would be unlikely to have any success with Bleeding the Brakes

So all you really have to do is pull the Pipe out of the Brake Pump and let the Brake Fluid Flow out under Gravity until all the Bubbles are gone and the Brake Fluid runs Clear of any Air Bubbles

In other words you do this Live 'on the fly' so to speak, With The Ignition OFF

Except its not quite that simple!

As on the end of the Braided Pipe goes into the Brake Pump there is a VERY FRAGILE PLASTIC ELBOW which is held in with a Pin as Warrjon pointed out

And while pulling that Pin out is easy, pulling out that very fragile plastic elbow is not, especially as it may not have been disturbed for over 20 years as its sealed in with a rubber 'O' ring that almost certainly may not want to come out

So lots of squirting with WD to try and free it off while you are minutely gently twisting it 'to and fro' so that you can twist it back and forth while at the same time pulling it out as you do so, until you can finally pull it right out so that the Brake Fluid runs Free

Where this Brake Fluid will come Flooding out under Gravity until the Bubbles are gone and the Brake Fluid runs Clear, at which point you put it back and then replace the Pin before you attempt to Bleed the Brakes or attempt to do anything else

At which point I think I should point out that there is at least a 50% Chance of Breaking that Very Fragile Plastic Elbow and in the event that this happens, then you may have quite a job to find another one (so gently does it!)

If while you are doing this you somehow get a feeling that this Fragile Plastic Elbow might break

Then there is a possibility that you may be able to do it if you disconnect the Braided Hose from the Plastic Elbow or the Metal Pipe that's near the Brake Pump

And then Fill that Braided Pipe up with Brake Fluid (near the Brake Pump) with a Syringe

Not the proper way to do it but I've heard that is has worked for some

The one thing that is not in doubt, is that it can make one hell of a mess with Brake Fluid running everywhere and if that gets on the Paintwork, it will Strip it in an Instant (So do cover everything up)

And even work with your hands under a Cloth in case the worst should happen

Put the Car Keys in your Pocket and DO NOT Switch the Ignition on, at least until the Plastic Elbow is back in the Brake Pump with the Locking Pin in place or you could have Brake Fluid squirting out everywhere

So First before you start the Job, Depressurize the System with the Ignition OFF by giving 20 Pumps on the Brake Pedal

And also Don't let the Reservoir Run Dry, as if so then you will have to start the Process all over again and its also most important to have the Calipers working properly, before you even begin to start this job

As you need a Solid base from which to build from

This is how I did it on my Car 'Cherry Blossom' hopefully with all the photos you will need to guide you through the process

Bleeding the Low Pressure Side of the Braking System Teves MK111 XJS V12

 

If you pressurise the reservoir you do not need to bleed the low pressure side as the pressure in the reservoir will force fluid through the accumulator.

I did initially bleed the low pressure side but this was before I used the pressurised reservoir method.