1st Post. I found it very hard to find any discussion on removing the rear quarter interior panel on a 1994, 1995 or 1996 Facelift XJS 2+2 convertible, despite several hours of looking. So now that the job is done, I figured it would be beneficial to others to post my experience.

Firstly, there are no screws, and the rear seat doesn’t need to be removed. On my '95 V12, there was one fastener that needed to be removed on the outside edge near the quarter window (circled). At first it was really tight, but wiggling the panel in the direction of the arrows loosened it enough to get a trim tool behind the fastener and lift it out. Then carefully pull the panel in the direction of the arrows. There are two additional fasteners on the inside, on the B pillar facing the front of the car. also circled. They are hidden fasteners that are attached on the inside of the panel and will pull out. be gentle though.

Once out, if you’re replacing the rear speaker like I did, you’ll need to unscrew three screws (not circled) on the back panel, the use a trim tool between the inner and outer panel to force out the 5 circled fasteners. Cover them with a towel before you pop them out, because they have a lot of stored energy and will literally fly 20-30 feet if you let them. These guys are incredibly hard to reattach. I suspect they were pressed in, perhaps before the leather was applied to the inside. I used a little hot glue on each one to resecure the panel, and that seemed to work fine.

As for the speakers, they’re Goodman 6 1/4" speakers, model 11072. 6 1/4" isn’t a standard size. Crutchfield will tell you that they don’t have speakers that will work. You can find cheap Pioneers on the web in 6 1/4" Instead, I installed 5 1/4" Focal Performance 130ACs, which are 2 way with a directional tweeter you can adjust to face the front seats. The speakers are wide enough in diameter to fully cover the hole in the inner panel. I had to drill three holes, and used one stock hole. They cost around $200. For wiring, I just cut the harness plug off with enough lead that it can be soldered back on if necessary. I then used 2 quick connectors for each speaker. One narrow, and one medium. Soldered in place with red and black shrink wrap. The harness wire that’s black with a red stripe is the (+) and the all black is the (-).

Reassemble is the same as removal. I used a little hot glue between the inner and outer panel, btw. Just a few dots for extra security and to prevent vibrations. Use this time to refresh your bulb for the interior light.