1994 v12 abs
#21
**Don't forget to THOROUGHLY exhaust the pressure before unscrewing it. That will take 30-40 solid presses on the brake pedal WITH THE IGNITION OFF. Makes a mess and can spray you right in the face if you don't.
Good luck!
#22
Yeah, I always used a heavy oil filter wrench, one of those with the pivoting handle.
**Don't forget to THOROUGHLY exhaust the pressure before unscrewing it. That will take 30-40 solid presses on the brake pedal WITH THE IGNITION OFF. Makes a mess and can spray you right in the face if you don't.
Good luck!
**Don't forget to THOROUGHLY exhaust the pressure before unscrewing it. That will take 30-40 solid presses on the brake pedal WITH THE IGNITION OFF. Makes a mess and can spray you right in the face if you don't.
Good luck!
And I did depressurize -- 100 hard presses just to make sure.
#23
My post on 4/16 has the photo of the housing. I had the same fear about breaking something. You have to be careful. Yes as I mentioned the allen wrench was useless, only good for re-installation.
They should have built in a boss into the housing just below the accumulator to attach a big wrench to hold it. Shame on them for not doing that.
Remove the long narrow bolt that has the rubber mounts. Pull the rubber mounts out. Insert a long 1/2" drive extension in the housing to use as leverage. The idea is to help hold the housing firmly to give you leverage. It's not at the ideal angle but it helps.
Then I used my strap wrench on the accumulator. It certainly was very tight.
Rich
They should have built in a boss into the housing just below the accumulator to attach a big wrench to hold it. Shame on them for not doing that.
Remove the long narrow bolt that has the rubber mounts. Pull the rubber mounts out. Insert a long 1/2" drive extension in the housing to use as leverage. The idea is to help hold the housing firmly to give you leverage. It's not at the ideal angle but it helps.
Then I used my strap wrench on the accumulator. It certainly was very tight.
Rich
#25
Finally got it off and reinstalled new one on Friday. Then I drove the car for about an hour. Braking was ten times better and the car sounded and drove great. I drove it for the first time again this afternoon and while in park the car sounds great and idles at around 1,000. When I put it in drive, I have no power. It would barely go 20 mph with the gas to the floor. I back down a slightly steep hill to get it out of the drive and while in reverse I felt the rear of the car kind of jerking (as if maybe the bake was stuck). I also think I can smell something different in the exhaust. I'm scared.
#26
Finally got it off and reinstalled new one on Friday. Then I drove the car for about an hour. Braking was ten times better and the car sounded and drove great. I drove it for the first time again this afternoon and while in park the car sounds great and idles at around 1,000. When I put it in drive, I have no power. It would barely go 20 mph with the gas to the floor. I back down a slightly steep hill to get it out of the drive and while in reverse I felt the rear of the car kind of jerking (as if maybe the bake was stuck). I also think I can smell something different in the exhaust. I'm scared.
Good luck!
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cassidy (05-09-2011)
#27
That's exactly what it sounds like. I agree....DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE.
When you loose one bank of ignition, the injectors continue to inject fuel to that bank, and since it cannot ignite, it continues to fill the exhaust with fuel. The catalytic converter is the lowest spot with no exit path and fills with fuel. If the cats are old they are likely clogged, making the problem worse.
If and when you find the problem, I would recommend you remove both cats and break out the elements and leave them clear. The secondary cats should still be good.
At least you fixed your brake problem, that's a good thing.
Rich
When you loose one bank of ignition, the injectors continue to inject fuel to that bank, and since it cannot ignite, it continues to fill the exhaust with fuel. The catalytic converter is the lowest spot with no exit path and fills with fuel. If the cats are old they are likely clogged, making the problem worse.
If and when you find the problem, I would recommend you remove both cats and break out the elements and leave them clear. The secondary cats should still be good.
At least you fixed your brake problem, that's a good thing.
Rich
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cassidy (05-09-2011)
#28
Thanks for the info guys. I parked the car as soon as I realized something was wrong, so the engine was probably own no more than five minutes -- hopefully I haven't done any further damage. A few questions: how difficult is it to repair the suspected problems (I am a novice but I love working on the car and feel like I can learn to do about anything with a little patience)? How much money am I looking at in regards to parts (and possibly service)? Can anyone reference me to the applicable page numbers in the service manual? Are any special tools required? Again, many thanks.
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