1994 V12 Auxillary Fan
#1
#2
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According to the diagrams there's no tie-in between the compressor and the aux fan on your model.
In the engine bay there's a fuse box and relay panel on the left side (there's one on the right, too, but we want the left side)
Check the #4 fuse in the fuse panel. If blown, replace it. Should be 30amp
If the fuse is OK find the temp switch in the water pump houisng. Remove the wires and touch them together. If the fan now operates the switch is no good.
If the fan doesn't operate.......
Find the cooling fan relay near the left fuse box. It'll have brown/green, black/green, and green/brown wires. Unplug the relay. With the relay unplugged you'll see the wiring terminals in the plastic relay socket. Using a small jumper wire you want to jump the black/green wire to either of the brown/green wires. If the fan now operates you have a bad relay. If it doesn't operate then the fan motor is faulty, or the wiring between the relay and the fan is faulty, or the ground is faulty.
Cheers
DD
In the engine bay there's a fuse box and relay panel on the left side (there's one on the right, too, but we want the left side)
Check the #4 fuse in the fuse panel. If blown, replace it. Should be 30amp
If the fuse is OK find the temp switch in the water pump houisng. Remove the wires and touch them together. If the fan now operates the switch is no good.
If the fan doesn't operate.......
Find the cooling fan relay near the left fuse box. It'll have brown/green, black/green, and green/brown wires. Unplug the relay. With the relay unplugged you'll see the wiring terminals in the plastic relay socket. Using a small jumper wire you want to jump the black/green wire to either of the brown/green wires. If the fan now operates you have a bad relay. If it doesn't operate then the fan motor is faulty, or the wiring between the relay and the fan is faulty, or the ground is faulty.
Cheers
DD
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bigwiki (05-02-2011)
#3
According to the diagrams there's no tie-in between the compressor and the aux fan on your model.
In the engine bay there's a fuse box and relay panel on the left side (there's one on the right, too, but we want the left side)
Check the #4 fuse in the fuse panel. If blown, replace it. Should be 30amp
If the fuse is OK find the temp switch in the water pump houisng. Remove the wires and touch them together. If the fan now operates the switch is no good.
If the fan doesn't operate.......
Find the cooling fan relay near the left fuse box. It'll have brown/green, black/green, and green/brown wires. Unplug the relay. With the relay unplugged you'll see the wiring terminals in the plastic relay socket. Using a small jumper wire you want to jump the black/green wire to either of the brown/green wires. If the fan now operates you have a bad relay. If it doesn't operate then the fan motor is faulty, or the wiring between the relay and the fan is faulty, or the ground is faulty.
Cheers
DD
In the engine bay there's a fuse box and relay panel on the left side (there's one on the right, too, but we want the left side)
Check the #4 fuse in the fuse panel. If blown, replace it. Should be 30amp
If the fuse is OK find the temp switch in the water pump houisng. Remove the wires and touch them together. If the fan now operates the switch is no good.
If the fan doesn't operate.......
Find the cooling fan relay near the left fuse box. It'll have brown/green, black/green, and green/brown wires. Unplug the relay. With the relay unplugged you'll see the wiring terminals in the plastic relay socket. Using a small jumper wire you want to jump the black/green wire to either of the brown/green wires. If the fan now operates you have a bad relay. If it doesn't operate then the fan motor is faulty, or the wiring between the relay and the fan is faulty, or the ground is faulty.
Cheers
DD
#4
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Use a short piece of wire to stick into the connectors to "jump" them together. Or a heavy guage paperclip.
When you get a bit more involved with repairs (or now, if you want!) you'll want to make up a selection of "jumper wires" with different clips, terminals, and probes on the ends. Very helpful.
In this case, for example, you'd probably want a piece of wire with a .common 250" male spade/blade terminal on each end.
Cheers
DD
When you get a bit more involved with repairs (or now, if you want!) you'll want to make up a selection of "jumper wires" with different clips, terminals, and probes on the ends. Very helpful.
In this case, for example, you'd probably want a piece of wire with a .common 250" male spade/blade terminal on each end.
Cheers
DD
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cassidy (05-14-2011)
#5
Use a short piece of wire to stick into the connectors to "jump" them together. Or a heavy guage paperclip.
When you get a bit more involved with repairs (or now, if you want!) you'll want to make up a selection of "jumper wires" with different clips, terminals, and probes on the ends. Very helpful.
In this case, for example, you'd probably want a piece of wire with a .common 250" male spade/blade terminal on each end.
Cheers
DD
When you get a bit more involved with repairs (or now, if you want!) you'll want to make up a selection of "jumper wires" with different clips, terminals, and probes on the ends. Very helpful.
In this case, for example, you'd probably want a piece of wire with a .common 250" male spade/blade terminal on each end.
Cheers
DD
Last edited by cassidy; 05-14-2011 at 11:16 AM.
#6
Never mind. I figured it out. I'm an idiot. And it was the switch. The fan worked fine when I connected the wires. I'm going to replace the switch, but am also considering buying the dual electric fan system. Anyone have any experience with buying and installing these?
#7
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#8
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Just Google the part number. Lots of vendors have it, such as:
FAN SWITCH | Part EAC2510 | Jaguar Parts & Land Rover Parts
Yes, you need to drain the coolant to at least below the level of the switch...or work really, really fast to reinstall the new switch while the coolant is gushing out of the hole.
Then you'll need to bleed the system. Search for postings in the archives on this or post back.
Cheers
DD
#9
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Radio Shack and others have test/jumper elads like these with alligator clips that will work in many situations
Hobby Engineering: Test Leads and Jumpers Category
There will be other times, though, where you'll want different clips/terminals on the wires depending on what it is you're jumping
You won't electrocute yourself
Cheers
DD
#10
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Are you sure EAC2510 is the correct part number?
Cheers
DD
#11
It's hard for me to read the manual sometimes, but it is either 2510 or 2310 (it says this is the number for the 6.0). The one at jagbits.com is $50, which seems expensive. Surely there is a non-jag part that is compatible.
Last edited by cassidy; 05-14-2011 at 03:45 PM.
#12
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I'm not aware of a non-Jag substitute, personally. There might be, though. Others will chime in.
Motorcars LTD webpage says that's the correct number as well but the way they have it listed was a little confusing to me. My fault.
Cheers
DD
#13
Yeah, I saw that. Said it was only compatible through 1993, if I'm remembering correctly. Oh well, I'll spend some time searching and see if I can't come up with an alternative. If not, I'll go ahead and get the jag switch. I HAVE to get back on the road. Seeing the car in the drive and not being able to drive it is almost depressing. Doug, what are your thoughts on replacing the switch alleviating my problem (temp gauge getting slightly above N in stop and go traffic and aux fan not engaging)? In Kirby's book, late model XJS owners report gauge readings in this range. I'm starting to think that I might be over reacting a bit, but my OCD compels me to err on the side of caution, especially with overheating situations.
#14
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Yeah, I saw that. Said it was only compatible through 1993, if I'm remembering correctly. Oh well, I'll spend some time searching and see if I can't come up with an alternative. If not, I'll go ahead and get the jag switch. I HAVE to get back on the road. Seeing the car in the drive and not being able to drive it is almost depressing. Doug, what are your thoughts on replacing the switch alleviating my problem (temp gauge getting slightly above N in stop and go traffic and aux fan not engaging)? In Kirby's book, late model XJS owners report gauge readings in this range. I'm starting to think that I might be over reacting a bit, but my OCD compels me to err on the side of caution, especially with overheating situations.
With the fan fixed the temp will likely stop rising in stop-go traffic. If it doesn't more investigation might be called for.
A little above the "N", in and of itself, isn't anything to worry too much about. BUT...this is MAY. If it goes a little above the N now, what will happen in August?
It's also possible that the gauge isn't 100% accurate...not uheard of.
Anyhow, fix the aux fan and go from there.
Cheers
DD
#15
When I did that on my Mercedes, I didn't drain the coolant. When you unscrew the cooling fan temp switch (engine not running), there is a little bit coolant coming out but I think that's ok. Actually, some Mercedes owners use the temp switch hole for bleeding the cooling system.
#16
My aux fan is not working too. I spent an afternoon following Doug's instructions and check the temp switch, relay, fuse and they all work fine. I tested the aux fan itself with a 12v supply and it runs. So, the only areas will be the wiring from relay to the fan or ground. I have a hard time to believe the wire is bad because the wiring harness is wrapped tightly.
How do I test the ground?
Thanks.
How do I test the ground?
Thanks.
#17
My aux fan is not working too. I spent an afternoon following Doug's instructions and check the temp switch, relay, fuse and they all work fine. I tested the aux fan itself with a 12v supply and it runs. So, the only areas will be the wiring from relay to the fan or ground. I have a hard time to believe the wire is bad because the wiring harness is wrapped tightly.
How do I test the ground?
Thanks.
How do I test the ground?
Thanks.
#18
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My aux fan is not working too. I spent an afternoon following Doug's instructions and check the temp switch, relay, fuse and they all work fine. I tested the aux fan itself with a 12v supply and it runs. So, the only areas will be the wiring from relay to the fan or ground. I have a hard time to believe the wire is bad because the wiring harness is wrapped tightly.
How do I test the ground?
Thanks.
How do I test the ground?
Thanks.
Wiring faults within a wrapped bundle are rare unless the bundle is rubbing against a sharp edge or such.
Much more common are *connection* faults at the grounds or at the terminals inside the plastic connectors.
I don't know where the ground points are for the switch or the fan motor itself so you may have to actually trace the wiring bundles. On my older XJS, FWIW, the grounds for these items where at the ends of the metal panel that runs across the top of the radiator.
Cheers
DD
#19
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THanks for joining in the discussion. This seems to be a common problem How did you check the switch? My fuse is fine and I can make the fan spin by jumping the connectors that plug into the switch (which would suggest the switch is bad). How do you check the relay? Thanks.
When you "jump" the wires at the switch you are simulating a closed switch...as it would be when the engine gets hot.
This in turn "gorunds" the control side of the relay, energizing the relay and sending voltage to the cooling fan...which is grounding on its own.
So...your relay is good.
But, since you asked, to here's how I would test the fan relay:
Check that the two brown/green wires at the relay have 12v at all times. If they don't, you have a blown fuse, a wiring problem, or no voltage supply TO the fuse.
Jump the wires together at the temp switch and use a test light or meter on the green/brown wire. It should be grounded. If not you have a wiring or connector problem.
With voltage at the relay (brown/green wires) and the relay grounded (green/brown wire) the relay should energize with a click and send voltage to the black/green wire. Use a light or meter to check for voltage.
Hope this helps
DD
#20
Wiring faults within a wrapped bundle are rare unless the bundle is rubbing against a sharp edge or such.
Much more common are *connection* faults at the grounds or at the terminals inside the plastic connectors.
I don't know where the ground points are for the switch or the fan motor itself so you may have to actually trace the wiring bundles. On my older XJS, FWIW, the grounds for these items where at the ends of the metal panel that runs across the top of the radiator.
Cheers
DD
Much more common are *connection* faults at the grounds or at the terminals inside the plastic connectors.
I don't know where the ground points are for the switch or the fan motor itself so you may have to actually trace the wiring bundles. On my older XJS, FWIW, the grounds for these items where at the ends of the metal panel that runs across the top of the radiator.
Cheers
DD
Last edited by cassidy; 05-15-2011 at 10:09 PM.