I'm back again guys! Still searching for the right XJS for me. I'm going to test drive a 1994 V12 with 82k miles tomorrow. Any advise on what to look for, what to check, what to ask about?

Asking price is $10k. It is supposedly in perfect condition. What say ye about that price tag?

As always, thanks for the comments!

 

We all know how some sellers play things a bit fast and loose with the word "perfect" but $10k might be a bargain if it is truly in mint condition and doesn't need any immediate repairs.

You might wanna read the buyers guide in the sticky at the top of the section. Assuming it starts, drives, and stops without any drama you'll be looking for a climate control that is fully functional in all modes, no overheating, no check engine, airbag, or anti-lock brake warning lights, and all luxury gizmos in working order.

Any body rust devalues the car immediately. If it's a convertible a ratty soft top is expensive to replace. In fact *any* cosmetic repairs are very expensive on this type of car....often worse than mechanical repairs.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks Dough, I've read the buyers guide a couple of times and will definitely be referencing it when inspecting the vehicle. The nearest jaguar dealership is an hour away from me, though there are several reputable mechanics in my area (and, considering the abnormal number of xjs I see on the road here, I would assume there are a couple of mechanics with experience working on them). Could this be a problem as far as regular maintenance is concerned? I would hate to have to be transporting the vehicle over an hour away just for routine repairs (those I can't handle on my own that is -- although I have no DYI experience). How dependable is the '94 V12? It would not be my primary vehicle, just a weekend car to cruise up and down the beach in and the occassional 300-500 mile road trip.

 

Routine service---oil changes, brake pads, filters, fluid changes, etc won't be a problem. Actual *repairs* might be a different story.

"Dependable" isn't a word normally used in a conversation about 17 year old high end, complicated, gizmo-laden, sports/luxury cars nor is it synonymous with "inexpensive".

Initial after-purchase dependabilty will mostly be predicated on the care the car has rec'd over the last 17 years. Future dependabilty will be mostly predicated on how well you take care of it.

The honest truth is that these are not "drive it and forget it" cars. If you're accustomed to a Honda or Toyota that will soldier on for years with minimal effort or expense...well...you'll need to do some adjusting. Expressed in on-automotive terms, if you're accustomed to the girl-next-door then marrying a super model might be a bit more than you bargained for. She's great to be seen with and responds very well to TLC and money but, if neglected, could absolutely care less if you live or die :-)

I used my my XJS for several years as a weekend car and it never let me down on many, many 500-600 mile weekend jaunts. But.....when I bought the car I spent time and money to sort out all the neglected repairs and quirks. After that the car was a joy and didn't need much more than routine servicing. I think I spent about $3000 in the first year, about $1000 in the second year, and then only $300-$400/year for 2-3 years after that. In fairness the first year was a ringer because I needed a transmission overhaul for about $2000.

I'm certainly not intending to discourage you as an XJS is a joy to drive.... but DO go in with realistic expectations.

Cheers
DD

 

I just got back from my test drive. The car is immaculate. No body damage, excellent paint, prestine interior and convertible top, even the engine was spotless. There was a small crack on the plastic front spoiler, but it was hardly noticealbe. All gizmos seemed to work other than the cruise, which I could not figure out if it didn't work or if I just didn't know how to operate it. There was a switch on the gear shift panel that is marked S/N, anyone know what that is? I'm going to have my mechanic look at it sometime this week and if everything checks out, I think I'm going to pull the trigger. The seller was down to $9,500 before I left. Depending on how much the spoiler would cost to fix and any issues there might be with the cruise control, I think $9,000 would be fair, assuming there are no undiscovered issues. What does everyone think?

The only immediate need I saw was new rear tires (still has the original pirellis on it).

One other issue that has crossed my mind: I don't have a garage. I know that under ideal circumstances, these vehicles would be kept in clean heated garages. Should I be overly concerned with this? How effective are covers at keeping out the elements? Please keep in mind that I live in the deep south where we have about two weeks of winter and, even then, it barely gets below freezing. Rain, on the other hand, is a different story.

 

I've always wanted a 6.0 so I'd pay $9k for if since it's so nice....especially if it was a coupe.

No problem leaving it outside except for it'll take more care keeping so pretty when it's exposed to the elements. Covers sometimes do more harm than good. Great for keeping dirt out but they can wear against the paint and, in some cases, hold moisture in. Buy a high grade cover that breathes.

The "S/N" switch is "Sport/Normal" It changes the shifting characteristics of the transmission. On some models it also is the difference between a second gear start and a first gear start.

Cheers
DD

 

Doug: Thanks again for all your help. I really do appreciate it as I am basically clueless when it comes to this stuff -- I always have to rely on others for my due diligence when buying a car.

Do you know anything about the cruise control? The switch was on the center console, next to the gear shift. There were two options: On and off. I know that on many models, after turning the switch to "on", there is another switch (usually on the stirring column) to actually set the cruise. I Either the cruise simply doesn't work or I simply couldn't figure it out. Either way, it's not a deal breaker but I would like to know how much it costs to fix if it in fact doesn't work.

I forgot to mention in my last post that the car is a convertible and ran smooth and sounded great. I was really impressed. I drove it for about 45 minutes and there was no over heating problems, unusual noises . . . Quite amazing for a 17 year old car with over 80k miles on it.

One thing I did notice was that for about the first mile after starting the car, there was a light vibration coming from the rear. It actually felt like the car was bouncing on the road a little -- very very slight. The seller warned me about it before leaving (or I probably wouldn't even have noticed it myself) and said it would last for just a moment then go away, which it did. He attributed it to the rear tires needing to be replaced. Any idea what this could be or if it is anything to be really concerned with?

I really think I am about to buy this car and I want to make sure I know exactly what I'm getting myself in to.

Again, thanks for all your help.

 

Not sure about a '94 but on the older models there's a button on the end of the turn signal stalk to set the cruise control. If the system is broken I'm not sure of the repair cost as I haven't had to work on that particular variation of cruise control.

The vibration could very well be tires, yes.

As for what you might be getting into, well....it sounds like a nice car. There will always be an element of risk but you've given it a good 45 minute road test and nothing horrible happened, and the price seem realistic IMHO.

Cheers
DD

 

The cruise control failure is typically due to a puncture in a rubber part under the hood. Easily replaceable.

The one on my 4.0 XJS gets torn because of the failing hood insulation, which I am planning on replacing shortly.

Anyways, if you look under the hood and find #21 (using the attached picture), check for a tear/rip/hole. If you find one, then replacing this part should do the trick.

I understand your engine will look different than what's being shown in the picture, but I would think your engine uses the same part for the cruise.

 

Anyone know where I can find an official owners manual for a decent price?

 

Well, I did it. I go to pick up my 1994 v12 XJS this afternoon. The mechanics thought the car was in exceptional condition: no prior accidents or repairs, regular maintenance done, and a clean title.

Now I need an owners manual and insurance. Any suggestions? The prior owner referred to to grundy insurance (they insure classic and collectible cars that are not primary vehicles). Does anyone have any experience with them?

 

I've always been able to find owners manuals on Ebay although it might take a bit of patience. I'm not aware of anyone selling new ones but someone might come along and correct me on that.

Can't comment on your insurance question.

Cheers
DD

 

Well done for finding such a nice car ! Here in the UK big V12s are a bit of a No-No at the moment with petrol at nearly $10 a gallon.

As regards a cover, if you are leaving it on your driveway, it might be worth getting one, (or making one) that just covers the soft-top, as powerful UV light like you will get in the "Deep South" is a killer of the material.

 

Thanks. I have a well shaded parking area and am even considering renting a storage facility (I have a friend that owns one and has offered me a discount on a 10' x 20' space).

On the drive home there was an accident on the interstate and I had to slam on the breaks. The car stopped just fine, but the brake and anti-lock brake lights blinked. I could also hear a clicking noise coming from the right area of the dash. When it clicked, the needle on the battery gage moved. When I got home, I sat in the drive and pumped the break a few times and was able to replicate the brake and anti-lock brake signals. Coincidentally, the clicking noise corresponded with the brake signals lighting up. Any clues?

 

My guess...and that's all it is...would be a faulty accumulator reservoir. Look at the ABS unit under the hood and you should see it. It's about the size of a baseball. You can buy the part from GM for $80-$100 and most guys replace it themselves after depressurizing the system. I can get the part number for you.

It could be another fault.

If you don't see the round accumulator then you have the later type ABS system but I think those were installed in the '95-'96 cars.

Cheers
DD

 

How hot is over heating? Driving up an down the highway, the temp never rises above N. But, when stopped in traffic at a stand still for about ten minutes, the temp was between N and H. Should I be concerned? If so, any suggestions? Thanks

 

Be concerned. The coolant temp shouldn't rise that much, that quickly, at idle. Think what will happen in August!

Warm up the engine...the hotter the better....then, with the engine turned off, give the cooling fan a spin with your hand. It should spin 1-1.5 revolutions. If it freewheels, it's junk and needs to be replaced. If it spins more than 1.5 turns it's "iffy" and needs to be replaced.

With the temp needle that high the electric aux cooling fan should be coming on. Is it?

The radiator might be clogged...internally or externally. Often the fins are cloggged with leaves and debris which you could clean yourself....but as long as you havethe radiator out you might as well have it professionally cleaned ("boiled out") internally as well.

Typical "used Jag V12" stuff.

Cheers
DD

 

Thanks again Doug. Would the fact that it idles at around 30 miles an hour have any affect on the over heating? Regardless, how do I adjust the idle?

Additionally, can you give me an idea of the cost I am facing with 1) replacing the cooling fan, 2)fixing the aux cooling fan, and 3) having the radiator professionally cleaned? (I haven't had time to check any of these items yet).

I really love my car (it's my first "major" purchase, other than my home) and want to take very delicate care of it. This forum is a definite blessing, as I would literally be lost without it. Props to those who created and maintain it.

One more thing: there is a crack in the plastic casing around the electric window and soft top controls. Not a big deal, but I want this thing perfect! Is their a parts catalouge/online retailer I can buy parts from?

 

The idle speed is adjusted by turning the bolt on the Aux Air Valve, which is located at the rear of the left side water rail. it looks like this:

Aux Air Valve - Motorcars LTD

If turning the bolt doesn't change the idle speed than the valve is stuck, or your throttles are not properly adjusted, or you have vacuum leaks....or a combination of all three







A fan clutch will be around $100...not sure about labor charges. The electric cooling fan problem needs diagnosis before any parts or replaced. A radiator boil out usually run less than $100....not sure about labor charges in your area to actually remove the radiator.

Will you be doing your own work? If so you'll need service and parts manuals and Kirby's book.





There are many good Jag vendors: Coventry West, Motorcars Ltd, Pauls Jaguar, Welsh, SNG Barett. I prefer Coventry West but the others are very good as well. Many items comes up on Ebay as well

Cheers
DD

 

Many thanks Doug. I would like to do as much work as possible myself -- to save money and spend time with the car. However, I have very very limited automotive experience. Considering as much, how difficult are these tasks? Where do I find a service and parts manual? I found an owners manual on ebay, is that the same thing?