I have a '95 XJS with 70,000 miles. I have owned it for 6 months and the A/C has never worked. I finally decided to address it and thought I'd try a recharge kit.

I started the car and switched the A/C on. I thought I could detect a very subtle change in the engine sound. But when looking at the compressor the clutch was not engaged. I went ahead and hooked the gauge up to the low pressure side and it showed full charge so I added no 134a.

So my thinking is that if I could get the compressor clutch to engage it just might work. I know that the compressor clutch relay and fuse is located in the right side fuse block. My question is how do I access the fuse block? Do I have to pull the plastic panel off where the glove box would be (right side below the wood trim piece)? If so how does this panel come off? I don't want to screw anything up or break any clips!

Thanks in advance.

 

My 95 has a knee panel below the passenger air bag and driver's side foot well. the panel will pull off. start at the bottom front edge and give it a tug, it will pivot on the back clips which will pull off. You will have access to both left and right under dash fuse panels.

 

Just pull the wiring at the compressor and check for voltage

 

What was the pressure reading? Did you do the high side as well?

 

The pressure reading on the low side was at the high side of the green area of the gauge. I did not check the high side.

 

Checking for power at the connector to the clutch is a good idea.

The A/C has a low pressure cut-out switch, that will keep the compressor from running when the refrigerant pressure is too low. On my 1993, it's a part with two wires that screws into the back of the compressor.

If you find that the clutch is getting power, then also check that it's getting a good ground, since Jags are infamous for having grounding issues too.

That should be a good start.

 

I tracked the compressor clutch not engaging down to a faulty relay. I swapped it for the horn relay and voila the clutch engaged. Picked up a can of Arctic Freeze 134A and sure enough the system had pressure but very low. It took the entire can to get it charged.

The A/C is now blowing cold!!! My car is black with black interior and top, so I was concerned about cooling it off inside. It's 86, sunny, and humid today and within a couple minutes of driving it was comfortable inside. It's not going to freeze me out but it's perfectly adequate.

 

I'm having a somewhat similar issue. I charged my a/c one day, just a little until it was blowing cold, but not fully charged. A week later it was not cold so I used a big can and did a full charge and it was ice cold. Next morning it was blowing hot. I assumed a big leak. I used a pin and rag to slowly let out the remaining gas, which didn't seem to be much. A week later I bought another can and wanted to add just enough to have cold air without stressing the system enough to leak. Not seeing the bigger picture, I did the recharge procedure again and the gauge was still reading almost-but-not-quite-full when something on the bottom rear of the engine bay blew out, refrigerant oil on the manifold, lots of smoke. I shut it off while it was slowly all leaking out. Since then the only test I've done is bleeding out more gas from the low side port as before, and there is still plenty of gas in there so I stopped short of letting it all out.
What I did wrong: not realizing the high side line still had full pressure and refrigerant when I did the second full recharge, even though the gauge was reading properly during the recharge, but it's possible I was not paying close enough attention and was putting in way too much.
But now I know. Sadly, too late to not have broken something that I now need to locate and repair/replace.
Any input, ideas, advice, and severe scolding are all accepted at this point.
:-/

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Did your refill kit have a gauge? Mine did and also an ambient temp guide so as not to over charge the system. I added the 134A in 5 second increments and then checked the gauge to make sure it wasn't over charging. It took the entire can to get it into the middle of the range.

 

I'm curious, what was the force of air from the two side vents when on high blower? My center vent is quite strong, but my side vents are lacking.

 

Yes the center vents on my car blow much stronger than the side vents.

 

I realize now after having slept a few times and let the situation sink in, I know exactly what I did wrong. The first full recharge I OVERCHARGED it, so the next morning it wouldn't kick on. If I'd only bled out some refrigerant until it kicked on I would have been all good to go. But I assumed it all leaked out instead of testing it first!
So doing another recharge with an already full system is where I royally f*cked up. Now I a big leak and a repair/replacement to debate on whether to fix. UGH!

 

That is a bummer. But chances are only one part of the system blew out, whatever the weakest link is.

Not to rub salt in the wound but I took mine out today in 88 degree weather and the A/C keeps my triple black car comfortable. It's not going to freeze you out but very acceptable.

 

Benj628: I think you simply overcharged the system and the pressure release valve on the compressor opened. No harm no foul. It usually closes back on it's own.
I just did (yesterday)my 96 XJS and pumped the system down (45 minutes) (vacuum held quite nicely) . I re-charged with small anti-leak can of Red Angel AC stop leak and 32 oz of 134A.
Give that a try and you might be cool again.

 

I did that a few years ago, without the AC Stop Leak, and found that 32oz was not enough. It would take awhile for my AC to get cold, and would not work well when idling, but great on highways.

I vacuumed it out and loaded it up with somewhere just over 36oz. Perhaps 40? And the difference is night and day. It works whether I'm in traffic or speeding down the highways. The air gets cold very quickly.

I know the service manual recommends 32oz by weight, but this time, I did it the standard way and just watched the high and low side gauges snap back and forth until I hit the right ranges.

 

 

I wish it were as simple as a pressure relief valve but to my knowledge there is no such thing. But not that I've researched it thoroughly enough to know for sure. When it did blow out and it was quite startling, it was towards the back bottom of the engine bay somewhere near the transmission. A loud bang and then along hissssss that slowly faded down to nothing, as every bit of it leaked out I'm sure. It's been over a year and I have yet to do anything about it. I just take the car on evening and night time drives when the weather is tolerable. Unfortunately I have to look into a windshield replacement which is now priority before the air conditioner.

 

Looks to me that ypu blew a line from your description. Shouldn't be hard to repair, I say with tongue in cheek. If it's near the evaporator you will be into the dash with all it's dismantling problems. New subject: I buy R124 from Walmart at five dollars an eight oz can. If you can't buy it in the store try mail order. Another new subject: On my 1993 XJS which take Freon I used a product called.http://www.amazon.com/Enviro-Safe-R-.../dp/B06Y5MNL1X. It worked great as a substitute for Freon. I know see that they have R134a (site I sent you. I did not use R134a in my 1993 I used the substitute)
Hope this helps......Stay cool!!!.

 

I have a 1994 XJS that I'm told was actually produced in 1993, can provide VIN if helpful. It's air conditioning quit working recently so I took to my mechanic. I had noticed the compressor clutch was not engaging and wondered if it might have a low pressure safety switch as my other cars....but frankly the Jag's always seem more complex electrically and challenging to me so I look to expert experience. He said that he found an open diode, replaced it, and was concerned with possibly a relay but evacuated, converted and recharged with R134. It then cooled. He said the high pressure side was higher than he liked and had concern with the evaporator valve. We drove the car about 50 miles and the AC quit again, no compressor clutch engagement. I checked fuses, none blown. The mechanic said replacing the expansion valve will be difficult, does anyone here have experience with replacing the expansion valve or suggestions that could help. It had never totally leaked refrigerant and I won't know that situation until I can get it back to him for a check....He felt it should have a better temperature differential and that the expansion valve replacement might provide cooler air. Is there a high pressure switch that could disengage the compressor? If so, the compressor doesn't run after resting for a few hours either. It seemed strange if the compressor clutch controls are pressure sensitive or if high pressure that it could result in a relay issue. Hoping some of you have experience or a good suggestion. Gerry

 

There is indeed a pressure switch. If there is too much it will not engage as well as if too little. Make him be sure he has filled it to the correct amount as found on the label under the hood. Not sure what an open diode is it what that even has to do with the air conditioner system? Replace the relay for good measure and check the pressure. Then see if all is well before you pay for anything else.