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The car was built around the end of September 1994. As a pre-Celebration 6 litre, it's still very desirable but much less rare. There were over 1000 6 litre Convertibles built in 1994.
If I've understood your description of the rust bubble on the scuttle panel correctly (apols if I've misunderstood you) that's your biggest issue. The autobox problem and trim are all achievable but rust bubbles on the scuttle edge indicates corrosion in the windscreen flange. I had a tiny bubble and I got away really lightly compared to many that I've seen. It's still a screen-out, wing-off job and that's assuming it hasn't spread right down into the inner wing.
It's not a reason not to buy it. It's a reason to buy it with your eyes open. See my pics below and negotiate your price accordingly.
The car was built around the end of September 1994. As a pre-Celebration 6 litre, it's still very desirable but much less rare. There were over 1000 6 litre Convertibles built in 1994.
In Canada though, that's a 1995 Model year, I believe you are referring to calendar year production? In Canada, for 1994 the 6.0 was a regular production car, in 1995 it was special order only, and unavailable in 1996. So the number of 1995 model year cars is very small. I have seen Canadian production numbers somewhere, but I believe it's around 20 6.0 cars if memory serves correctly.
It's a project there if you want it. Worst case scenario is you need a transmission. I'd change the top to dark tan, looks better with calypso red. You could end up with a 8k car for 4/5k if you buy it right and you have the time.
1.5k for the car, 1k for the trans, 1k for the top, 1k for maintenance.
You might get lucky on the trans. I'd roll the dice on a 4l80e.
Under this cover there is a GM Map sensor that provides a signal to the TCM. If the vacuum hose deteriorated or the MAP sensor is bad the TCM will think you are always at wide open throttle and will shift late and hard.
Thank's for all the info and replys. My main issue with the car at this time, is the rust in the a-pillar and the overall condition of the body. In southern ontario, cars like this with decent mechanicals and rough bodies are pretty easy to come by. The factors that would make me go for it are a good clean body, the very low production number of the car, and naturally the all in cost of getting the car up to my personal standards. For those reasons at this time, I think I'm going to pass on it. If the car had a nice clean rust free body, and the soft top was in usable condition, that might tip the scales. Furthermore, the asking price is 5k, so to get it for 2-3k is probably unlikely. I do however have a funny habit of making low ball offers when I don't actually want the car and having those offers immediately accepted by the sellers. Always puts me in a hard spot.
I'm going to suggest to the seller to re-advertise the car, so I can share the car here.
If I would throw it out of the window that quickly, as while I am not 100%
I do have a bit of a feeling that a New Gearbox Module for a Facelift V12 is an 'eye watering' $1,250 plus several thousand more dollars to bring her back 'up to snuff' in which case should decide to casually drop this into the conversation 'as you do'
His expectations of getting 5k could start falling faster than a plummeting lift
As when the reality starts to kick in of just how much it is going to cost to fix her, then he may start to look at you as his only chance of getting a Sale, where as you stand there with a grand in your hand he might just bite your arm off at the wrist
As while on the face of it She's really just a 'Parts Car' what is hiding in plain sight, is the 6.0L engine you're after, that would be an amazing drop in for a Car with better bodywork on any day of the week, not to mention Shedloads of other useful spares and those seats don't look too dusty either!
So if you have the storage space then you know what to do!
I'll tell you all what's perplexing/ironic about the condition of the body and paint... the guy owns a bodyshop! And when i went to see the car, the entire shop was empty. Business is slooooowww. But all in all, it was worth taking a look at the car. Space is an issue. As is the appearance of my residence. I don't like a lot of derelict cars around if I can't keep them in the garage. Currently there are three in covered storage. 1978 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400, 2009 Pontiac G8 GT (Holden Commodore) and the 1999 Mercedes SL500 AMG. Along with the the snow clearing implements and the rest of the usual shop stuff (I'm a carpenter). That makes it very crowded in there. If the Jag was something I was buying, I'd cocoon the car until the weather broke, or I quit my job in April, and then move it into the shop to start working on it. But the bodywork and condition is a no-go for me.
good choice to back off!
a bad body and a bad engine/transmission is parts only, BUT only a Jag guy would have any use for it!
a pick of a 1978 Jag XJS that spent yrs in UK, no bottom at all , NO floors ,rust 1/2 way up the sides , many years /++ money!
ron NO bottom at all some sides missing had to get a ROTESSOIRE roll rig to do the work, unbelievable amount of hours!
Hey gang. New member here. Always loved the XJ-S since a friend of my Dad's showed up in an 87 (maybe 89) BRG/tan TWR coupe one day in my formative early teen years. It made an impression. Now in my 40's, I'm in the collecting phase of my life. I've caught and released a few muscle cars and hot hatches over the years, but am becoming more particular in my tastes. For example I just acquired a beautiful low mileage 1999 Mercedes SL500 AMG this past summer, and needless to say, it has greatly made these trying pandemic times more bearable. But it is now winter in Southern Ontario, and the Silver Bullet Mercedes is tucked away until spring.
The project itch is beginning to... well, itch again.
I have recently stumbled upon a local ad for a 1996 6.0 XJS Convertible "non running". The car is value priced and has just 104k KMS on the odometer. The ad is vague, and simply states "non running - needs investigating". The overall condition of the car is very good, judging solely by the photos. I cannot post a link to the advertisement because he has taken it down over the holidays. However the car is still for sale and I am going to look it over tomorrow afternoon. It is at a bodyshop in Toronto, but doesn't appear to have been there for any collision damage.
My concerns: I have read through various stickies and PDF's about non running V12's. I've used the search function thoroughly. However, most of these threads and documents concern the earlier cars, not the later 6.0 V12 4L80 equipped cars. From what I understand, they are far more modern and user/maintenance friendly than the earlier cars. Which leads me to believe that this XJS may not be a lost cause.
I am decently mechanically inclined, and have good diagnosing skills. I understand the basic operation of a modern car. Air, fuel, spark, mass air flow, cam and crank position sensors, fuel injection etc... I don't expect to poke around the car in this sellers shop and get this car running, as that would be counterproductive to my negotiating leverage. What I would like to know is if there is any death star style weakness on these 6.0 powered 1996 cars that should send me running?? My gut tells me this is a car that was acquired by the seller for nothing, or nearly nothing, and hence, he doesn't want to tinker, or invest money in getting it to run. Simply sell it quickly for some quick cash. This is where my opportunity lies. I'd like to acquire the car and get it running. Yet I'm not able to throw enormous amounts of money and time at the V12. I have neither the time, nor the inclination to do so. But some basic diagnostic stuff, and doing some deferred maintenance? I can handle that. Beyond that, there's always the aluminum LS swap, right?? But I'd prefer to keep the V12 in service.
Keep in mind, this car has low miles, is rust free, and appears to be well maintained. What does everyone think? Is this a slam dunk, or not?
Im selling my 86 XJS. It's running. Needs some tlc as expected.
Hey gang. New member here. Always loved the XJ-S since a friend of my Dad's showed up in an 87 (maybe 89) BRG/tan TWR coupe one day in my formative early teen years. It made an impression. Now in my 40's, I'm in the collecting phase of my life. I've caught and released a few muscle cars and hot hatches over the years, but am becoming more particular in my tastes. For example I just acquired a beautiful low mileage 1999 Mercedes SL500 AMG this past summer, and needless to say, it has greatly made these trying pandemic times more bearable. But it is now winter in Southern Ontario, and the Silver Bullet Mercedes is tucked away until spring.
The project itch is beginning to... well, itch again.
I have recently stumbled upon a local ad for a 1996 6.0 XJS Convertible "non running". The car is value priced and has just 104k KMS on the odometer. The ad is vague, and simply states "non running - needs investigating". The overall condition of the car is very good, judging solely by the photos. I cannot post a link to the advertisement because he has taken it down over the holidays. However the car is still for sale and I am going to look it over tomorrow afternoon. It is at a bodyshop in Toronto, but doesn't appear to have been there for any collision damage.
My concerns: I have read through various stickies and PDF's about non running V12's. I've used the search function thoroughly. However, most of these threads and documents concern the earlier cars, not the later 6.0 V12 4L80 equipped cars. From what I understand, they are far more modern and user/maintenance friendly than the earlier cars. Which leads me to believe that this XJS may not be a lost cause.
I am decently mechanically inclined, and have good diagnosing skills. I understand the basic operation of a modern car. Air, fuel, spark, mass air flow, cam and crank position sensors, fuel injection etc... I don't expect to poke around the car in this sellers shop and get this car running, as that would be counterproductive to my negotiating leverage. What I would like to know is if there is any death star style weakness on these 6.0 powered 1996 cars that should send me running?? My gut tells me this is a car that was acquired by the seller for nothing, or nearly nothing, and hence, he doesn't want to tinker, or invest money in getting it to run. Simply sell it quickly for some quick cash. This is where my opportunity lies. I'd like to acquire the car and get it running. Yet I'm not able to throw enormous amounts of money and time at the V12. I have neither the time, nor the inclination to do so. But some basic diagnostic stuff, and doing some deferred maintenance? I can handle that. Beyond that, there's always the aluminum LS swap, right?? But I'd prefer to keep the V12 in service.
Keep in mind, this car has low miles, is rust free, and appears to be well maintained. What does everyone think? Is this a slam dunk, or not?
I worked in a small shop that did a lot of older Jags for a few years and almost every one that came in, in non running condition, needed a new crankshaft sensor. That would be the first thing I would check.
If you choose not to purchase ley me know. I have several 5.3's & 6.0's, could always use another. V-12 constant repair and maintenance is a passion, & terminal illness.
I have owned a '95 XJS Convertible (196401) since 1999 and after parking it a few years ago when I decided to keep it instead of trading it in against an XK convertible. The first thing I would check are the fuel pump relay and then the fuel pumps. The relay is located in the boot/trunk on the right hand side and there are plenty of online articles/videos showing how to check a relay with a 12V source. If the relay is OK, you can slightly loosen the fuel line connectors on the fuel rail. If the pumps are working, fuel will flow out of here when you crank the engine over. If not, then there is a good chance that one (or both) of the fuel pumps will need replacing. Unfortunately they are actually inside the fuel tank. One pump provides pressure at starting/low RPM while the second kicks in at higher RPM as the engine requires more fuel. The pumps are available after market (Bosch) for about US $100 a piece. It is a pain in the neck to do since you have to remove the fuel tank as the pumps are accessed from the area between the tank and the rear seat bulkhead. The other thing to visually check is the wiring in the engine bay. There is a plastic 'Jaguar V12' cover over the fuel rails and distributor/coils. Just ask the seller to pop this off and check out the wiring harness to each injector, spark plug wires etc. for rodent damage. Sounds very fixable to me and they are great cars to own and drive.
For a more detailed answer to your question, I would jump over to the 'Jag-Lovers' forum. There's heaps of expertise there, but they'll also want to have more details and photos if available. But, at least you can probably find info. on what to watch out for before buying your new 'project'.
I think the first thing is to get it to turn over using its own starter (not turn over by hand). As you mentioned you are mechanically inclined, by turning it over you will be able to know if
1. the motor jumped time (as in timing chain jumped tooth).
2. if there is compression in all cylinders (as in if it dropped or bent a valve).
3. if you open the radiator cap while turning the engine over you can tell if the head gasket is leaking or not as the water will shoot out of the radiator when it's on the cylinder that blew the gasket.
4. Pull the oil dipstick and see if the oil is milky, also an indication of a head gasket leak.
5. If the motor checks OK you'll still have the transmission to think about if it's an auto, or a clutch if it's manual....
Went to see the car today. Vin is SAJNN2348SC197682. Car is a little rough for my tastes. Apparently the non running condition is due to some type of transmission module? Owner is quarantining after a trip during the holidays. So fella that was showing me the car didn't really know too much about it. Says it was slamming into gear, or something along those lines. I checked all the hoses and fluids, and they are all in good condition. The trans fluid was at the correct level. And clean. Needs a soft top for sure. Interior dirty, but not terrible. Dark piping on the seats. Nice touch. Wood veneers are pretty rough as well. Small rust bubble at the A-pillar and cowl. Otherwise paint had blemishes throughout. Chrome headlight washer jet trims missing. Rear bumper reflector busted. Thoughts??
I'm constantly inspired by the great input on this site--amazing resource. Thanks to everyone for your generosity of time and experience.
Here are some observations that may seem "superficial" but really aren't if you're serious about this car...or any other.
The darkened pattern of the center console veneer caught my attention right away along with a few other details that may seem minor, but could allude to some historical issues that can effect your potential ownership/subsequent sale experience in problematic ways.
I lived in the US Northeast and Pacific NW where snow, ice, road salt, moisture, mold damage, and "green slime" from huge dumps of pollen were major problems for vehicles new and old. There were a lot of cars donated/purchased at auction, junk yards and from elderly or other owners that couldn't manage upkeep and were bought cheap and "fixed up" for a quick profit. Some (but not all) of the nicer ones were garaged/stored, and others were complete "transformations" from the bones out, but either way, moisture was an issue, even for newer rides unless the storage environment were constantly kept at a temperature that didn't allow condensation and other sources of moist, air to settle into the softer parts and "bones" of a vehicle...which also causes rust....so DO do a close examination of the body above and below, inside and out, and also lok for evidence inn the folds of the door, window, and other gaskets.
This one is already in the body shop, so it's been partially "cleaned up." The markings/wear might be age, and might be due to a deep clean of the algae/green body slime you get in a wet area with dense foliage and lots of pollen...especially from conifers, including some of the inside trim wear.
That darkening of the console veneer pattern isn't the grain and indicates possible water damage - might be due to an unattended coffee spill, but it's too uniform for that section of the vehicle and looks more like mildew below the finish. It's also the only area of the veneer in the images where it's present.
There's also rust on the parking brake lever by the DS door, so be on the lookout for more, and more than may have been addressed already by the body shop...and if that darker upholstery piping wasn't original, because it's only on the seats, and based on the other wear and slight gap on the front of the DS seat at the seam, and the discoloration of the other stitching, it's been refurbished. Check the carpet edges to see if they have been redone...get down and smell them and see of there's rust on the floor boards and metal seat slides. Also displace the upholstery with pressure as though "fluffing it up" and check for any whiff of musty or mildewy smell. There have likely been products used to try to mask it...and even just that "old car " or stale smoke smell, so do it more than once in more than one area. Even of the top was left open and it was rained or snowed in once, it may be an issue and would explain why a car with so few miles has been let go like this.
And...running the VIN may not reveal it either if were not "totalled" or "salvaged" like in a natural disaster/flood or accident.
Mold and mildew in a neglected car can cause a plethora of serious health issues for any owner/driver that can make one miserable and shorten a life, the same as in a home. Had a friend who's health tanked in very odd ways, and it was finally diagnosed as mold exposure. The house was new, so it wasn't there---or at work, but he had bought a used classic "for a song" and when they took out the seats and began exploring the upholstery and below other surfaces, it was full of mold.
They junked the car and the symptoms decreased, but years later, there are still persistent immune, joint, and biochemical issues.
So, as wonderful as it might seem to have discovered a sweet deal...be discerning, nosey, thorough and do your due diligence, because there may be more insidious issues than mechanical concerns.
Stay well everyone!
Last edited by Susie Q; 01-08-2021 at 06:04 PM.
Reason: typos
01-04-2021, 06:39 PM
