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The other Pump is from a V12 which unlike an In-Tank Fuel Pump can be replaced in an Hour!
Actually, (and OB knows this; I'm just clarifying) it's not I6 or V12, it's basically pre- or post-facelift. My facelift 1992 V12 has the in-tank pump. And when it failed, it cost me the equivalent of 750 quid to get replaced. Based on what OB's said, it's probably money well spent....
In-Tank Pumps are a PIA and if I didn't love my Car as much as I do or maybe don't trust Garages as much as I don't then maybe I would also pay to have this job done
Or on the other hand 'Maybe NOT' as replacing your Fuel Pump cost as much as I paid for the beautiful little Mercedes that I use as my Daily Driver
Actually, (and OB knows this; I'm just clarifying) it's not I6 or V12, it's basically pre- or post-facelift. My facelift 1992 V12 has the in-tank pump. And when it failed, it cost me the equivalent of 750 quid to get replaced. Based on what OB's said, it's probably money well spent....
Hi Someday
I forgot to mention that my V12 is a Pre-Facelift Car, where changing the Fuel Pump and Filter is really a 'Walk in the Park on a Hot Summers day'
Yes, you've told me, except your idea of a hot summer's day isn't mine. On a hot summer's day over here, a walk in the park in will leave you exhausted, dripping in sweat and desperate for a cold drink. Which is about what you'll end up like trying to replace a post-facelift fuel pump....
Don't think there's any difference with the nozzles. Just the usual slightly angled tube. Though they don't have that useful latch I found in the States where you can latch it open and let it just fill right up without having to squeeze the trigger the whole time.
A Merc for 750 quid that's reliable enough to be a daily driver? Astounding....
Yup! She's only done 200,000 miles so probably not run in yet and still looks like a Brand New Car
One of those latches on the Fuel Filler Cap to keep it open would be very useful, as the last time that I filled up my XJS from empty, I had to keep changing hands
To avoid getting repetitive strain injury, as I needed those to steady myself as the Filling Station Petrol Pump Clocked up £108 which came as a bit of a Shock
I had to keep changing hands to avoid getting repetitive strain injury
Yes, indeed, especially with the at times glacial flow rates of petrol pumps over here.
What sort of Merc, by the way? I mean, as a Jaguar owner I naturally must consider Mercs to be continental (incontinental?) trash, but I do have a grudging respect for them.
And so I'd better not compound my error by banging on about how reliable it is or how it never lets me down or shows any sign of rust, even though I only wash it about once a year
Or how economical it is and how it seems to run on Fresh Air when compared to the Jag
Its a Merc 190 and although I will whisper it quietly, has to be the best Car that I have ever owned, though obviously lacking in luxury that you get as Standard with the XJS
Which in a way reminds me of that Famous Advert 'Your Mother Wouldn't Like It' for the MGB though with an XJS of course She would!
Last edited by orangeblossom; 04-24-2018 at 08:22 AM.
Or how economical it is and how it seems to run on Fresh Air when compared to the Jag
Its a Merc 190 and although I will whisper it quietly, has to be the best Car that I have ever owned, though obviously lacking in luxury that you get as Standard with the XJS
Which in a way reminds me of that Famous Advert 'Your Mother Wouldn't Like It' for the MGB though with an XJS of course She would!
SDSD, OB: see the attached Turin photo and draw the dotted line, and forget all this "reliable, great MPG, never let me down B/S"!
Greg
Reminds me a bit of my other car, the Subaru shopping cart. It's never been washed or vacuumed in the 10+ years I've owned it, never had any regular maintenance done other than oil and filter changes every two years (part of the MOT-equivalent), and while I've had to fix and replace a few things over the years, it simply will not die. And I can run it for a month on fumes from the Jag.
Sometimes I suspect if I didn't coddle my XJS as much it might be more reliable--she might realise that she can and will be junked without a thought, and stop being so attention-seeking.....
I’m loading it up today and will have at home with me tonight this weekend I’m planning on starting to tear into it. With all the advice you guys give me hopefully I’ll be able to get that gas tank all cleaned out I’m going to give a shot. Hoping the fuel pump is fine since the car only has 76,000 miles, that is rounded up. If not I’ve already priced them online on eBay they’re not too bad here in the states.
So, here is the pictures I promised. It has some issues. The metal work will not be a problem just take me some time. The tank is 3/4 full which is going to suck. The mirror is not damaged, but I need a passenger door glass, and would like to know where to get another key. I have only one.
Changing the (Real Fuel Filter) is not gonna be as easy as you think, assuming that your 4.0L Straight Six has an In-Tank Fuel Pump
Which must be established and which I believe She has
Because the Fuel Filter and the Pump are all integral in one unit, so if you want to change the Filter then you also have to Change the Pump
And what is more it doesn't matter how good a Mechanic you are, as this Job is a King Size PIA!
So where do we Start?
One way or another all the Gas will have to come out, with no reason that I can see as to why it cannot be Siphoned
Then the Fuel Lines need to be disconnected, which requires a Special Tool as they have to be Pushed and Twisted from underneath the Car (Grant has a Pic I believe?)
As for me I made one out of a Piece of Stiff Plastic Pipe with a Groove cut in it just wide enough for the Fuel Pipe but not for the Push and Twist Fitting on the end
Another problem being that these Fuel Pipes and Fittings are a PIA to get to, as the IRS Cage is right in the way
The Fuel Pipes are Self Sealing One for Flow and One for the Return and so they might be difficult to clean out and I don't know because I didn't do that
The Fuel Tank on my 4.0L Convertible is behind a Steel Baffle in the Boot/Trunk and everything has to come out to get it out
Battery Box/Trim and in my case the Hydraulics for the Soft Top and even the CD Changer as well as the Boot/Trunk Stays and Brackets
Once the Steel Baffle is out of the Car, then you should be able to see the Fuel Tank where the only thing that holds it in are those Fuel Pipes!
(which you have previously undone from underneath the Car)
But apart from that the Fuel Tank is 'Jammed in' with wedges of Rubber and its jammed in really tight, so tight that you will think that they Welded it in!
Next Fill the Boot/Trunk with Blocks of Wood or Old Books or whatever, so the Fuel Tank doesn't drop down when you Pull it back
But before you can pull it back you have to remove the Filler Cap and the Breather Pipes, which of course is not gonna be as easy as it looks
Because you need to get the Rubber Fuel Cap to Fuel Tank Sealing Collar off and this is another King Size PIA! because it is going to fight you all the way!
Don't even be tempted to cut it through with the Bread Knife, as it could cost you 'Megabucks' to replace
One that job is out of the way and assuming that you haven't decided to 'end it all'
Then you can pull the Fuel Tank back and remove the locking ring on the Top with a Rubber Hammer and a Piece of Hardwood as a 'drift' (You do not want any Sparks or its game over!)
Then when you look in through the Top, you can see the Fuel Pump with its 'T' Shaped Filter on the end
The Fuel Pump on mine is held in with one Bolt but again you need to be careful that you don't drop the Spanner and Cause any Sparks
I think you are meant to use a Brass Spanner or one thats non metallic, which of course we've all got (Lol)
Then you can take out the Fuel Pump complete with its Fuel Filter and then replace the whole thing with a New One
No need to Spend 'Megabucks' you can get a Generic one for a Few Dollars off the 'Bay'
And then put it all back together, they way that you took it apart
Then get a big bottle of JD and book yourself a Holiday somewhere Warm with a Beach!
As for Gas I only use 99 Octane, it never really pays to use the Cheap Stuff 'Junk Food for Cars'
Fuel Tank with the In-Tank Pump from my 4.0L XJS Straight Six (note fuel filter on the end)
The other Pump is from a V12 (Pre-Facelift) which unlike an In-Tank Fuel Pump can be replaced in an Hour!
I tried looking it up, but failed. What if ment by facelift?? Is my jaguar a pre or post facelift car? Also the car has set for 9 years. A limb fell on a carport, that is what damaged the body, this last year.
A manual transmission XJS is very much worth saving.
I had a 1992 XJS which would have the same fuel tank setup as the 93. I'm not aware of any sensor or other issue that would prevent siphoning the fuel out. If you want to remove the old fuel before trying to start her up, then I'd siphon out as much as you can through the fuel filler neck to start with.
Then to get the rest out, you can get access to the tank from the boot/trunk. There is a fuel level sender on the rear of the tank that can be removed, giving you access to the inside of the tank. When you loosen the locking ring on the fuel sender you want to use something that won't cause a spark. I used a rubber mallet and a small length of wood to tap it loose.
Siphon the rest out through that access hole and take a look at the inside to gauge the condition of the tank.
Put down plenty of old towels, rags in the floor of the trunk that you can throw away in case of any spillage. You'll also want to remove and replace the fuel filter. Once removed, dump out the contents to see what comes out.
The filter is located underneath the car, on the driver's side, a little bit forward of the rear wheel and about 8" inboard.
So, there is or is not a filter in the tank as well?
Here is a 'Pic' for Comparison of my Pre-Facelift XJS V12 that Does NOT have an In-Tank Fuel Pump
External Fuel Pump and Sump Tank on my Pre-Facelift XJS V12
There are loads of Cars on the Road these days that DO have In-Tank Fuel Pumps and many 'Shops' would not change the Fuel Pump (with its filter on the end)
Unless the Fuel Pump either 'packed up' or they were 'specifically asked to by the Owner'
Because this Job is so Labor Intensive that it could easily end up costing $500 or more without the Parts
So if you can hear the Fuel Pump running (which only runs for 3 Seconds) every time that you turn the Ignition On, then I would leave that alone at least for the time being
If the Fuel Pump doesn't run, then it could be something Simple like a Relay
And so instead just drain off the Petrol, see how it looks and in the event it looks ok, refill with Premium Gas
Then once you have her running you can get a much better idea of what other jobs might need doing to get her back on the road
Last edited by orangeblossom; 04-26-2018 at 05:41 AM.
So, there is or is not a filter in the tank as well?
There will be a small mesh or "sock" type filter attached to the pump inside the fuel tank that filters fuel as it's sucked in by filter. There will be a separate inline fuel filter, about the size of a soup can, under the car where I noted earlier.
1992 and later model years are considered "facelift" models, as there were some cosmetic and other changes inside and out compared to the 1991 and earlier versions. This is using USA model years.
Main exterior changes were different tail lights, 2 oval headlights on the facelift models versus 4 round on the 1991 and earlier; the bulge down the middle of the bonnet is more pronounced on the facelift models. Interior differences included different gauges. The facelift models have the in-tank fuel pump.
If the fuel pump works then the easiest way to drain the tank will be as Jagsandmgs explained above.
You've got an In-Tank Fuel Pump same as my 1995 XJS 4.0L Six Cylinder, which is underneath that White Plastic Cap (The Evaporator) with the 2 Shiny Black Pipes
If the Pump is working, then I can't see the point of Changing it, at least until you've got her up and running but that is up to you
Although draining the Tank and refilling with Premium Gas would be a good idea
All the Fuel Pipes are inside the Tank, with the connecting Stubs for the Flow and Return sticking out of the back of the Tank, as in one of my Photos
But if you really want to change the Pump, disconnect the battery and don't use any kind of tools that can cause a Spark to ignite any Petrol Fumes
Definitely the kind of job you want to do outside in the open
Maybe the P.O. disconnected the Alarm because it either kept going off or had a leak to earth and was draining the battery?
04-24-2018, 01:31 AM
