1996 XJS 4.0 high idle
#21
Dabs,
I want it to run right!
I got my waiver but it still runs wrong.
I HAVE REPLACED THE FOLLOWING:
IACV: seems to help if only momentarily...after about 30 seconds on correct idel speed it moves up to 1100 rpm
AIR TEMP CONTROL: it was cheap no change
ENGINE TEMP CONTROL: cheap no difference
THERMOSTAT: temp goes to just below midway and stays put, the old one moved around to much and when changing it I noticed there was a lot of black rtv gasket maker all around it
MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR:voltage changes with engine acceleration were too low .9 to .27W: reads better but still no change with idle speed .
Removed computer and inspected everything for moisture damage. All looked good. Found a "new " Lucas computer was installed in 2009
Next step in to get the adaptive settings back to baseline. Just waiting for confirmation that the right equipment is available.
Because of the high idle (I hope that's it) I cant get the car to go into closed loop
Cant wait to report this car fixed.
I want it to run right!
I got my waiver but it still runs wrong.
I HAVE REPLACED THE FOLLOWING:
IACV: seems to help if only momentarily...after about 30 seconds on correct idel speed it moves up to 1100 rpm
AIR TEMP CONTROL: it was cheap no change
ENGINE TEMP CONTROL: cheap no difference
THERMOSTAT: temp goes to just below midway and stays put, the old one moved around to much and when changing it I noticed there was a lot of black rtv gasket maker all around it
MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR:voltage changes with engine acceleration were too low .9 to .27W: reads better but still no change with idle speed .
Removed computer and inspected everything for moisture damage. All looked good. Found a "new " Lucas computer was installed in 2009
Next step in to get the adaptive settings back to baseline. Just waiting for confirmation that the right equipment is available.
Because of the high idle (I hope that's it) I cant get the car to go into closed loop
Cant wait to report this car fixed.
Last edited by Hitch; 10-27-2016 at 10:28 PM.
#22
#23
High Idle resolved!
Saturday morning I dove my high idle, cruse control like self accelerating 1996 XJS to Authorized Service / Don's Jaguar in Flemington NJ. I left with a properly behaving car.
When I got there a little before 9am I knew I was in the right place. XKE's, XJS, Healys and Rovers all over the place.
George showed up shortly later. He asked if the car was warm and directed me to move my 1996 XJS to in front of a garage door. He walked into the office and came out with an Autologic Programmer. I was dubious. I was looking for a PDU or a WSD or and IDS. He hooked up the Autologic programmer to the OBDII port and instantly the trouble codes showed up. This is something that the state emissions computer would not show nor would my hand held scanner. George took note of the codes which were all the disconnects I had done and erased them all. He went thru the process of setting the throttle position sensor, noted that I was running cool at 80'C (new thermostat I put in at 80"C should have been 90" C) He also noted that my one O2 sensor, position D which is post converter, was pegging out and needed to be replaced.
We took the JAG out for a drive and he noted a couple of other issues with the car that needs to be resolved that I was aware of but he clarified the cure and never pressed additional service.
This service cost me $244.00
Not cheap. But the Jag runs properly now. My wife and I went out all afternoon and evening in the JAG with no drivability issues. I should have done it on day one and I would have probably saved the other money I threw at the car.
If you have a high idle issue or other drivability issues, get the car scanned by somebody with the right equipment. DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY ON ANY OTHER COURSE>
It's Sunny, warm, and the Eagles aren't on till 8:30 tonight. I'm gonna go play with my Jag.
Saturday morning I dove my high idle, cruse control like self accelerating 1996 XJS to Authorized Service / Don's Jaguar in Flemington NJ. I left with a properly behaving car.
When I got there a little before 9am I knew I was in the right place. XKE's, XJS, Healys and Rovers all over the place.
George showed up shortly later. He asked if the car was warm and directed me to move my 1996 XJS to in front of a garage door. He walked into the office and came out with an Autologic Programmer. I was dubious. I was looking for a PDU or a WSD or and IDS. He hooked up the Autologic programmer to the OBDII port and instantly the trouble codes showed up. This is something that the state emissions computer would not show nor would my hand held scanner. George took note of the codes which were all the disconnects I had done and erased them all. He went thru the process of setting the throttle position sensor, noted that I was running cool at 80'C (new thermostat I put in at 80"C should have been 90" C) He also noted that my one O2 sensor, position D which is post converter, was pegging out and needed to be replaced.
We took the JAG out for a drive and he noted a couple of other issues with the car that needs to be resolved that I was aware of but he clarified the cure and never pressed additional service.
This service cost me $244.00
Not cheap. But the Jag runs properly now. My wife and I went out all afternoon and evening in the JAG with no drivability issues. I should have done it on day one and I would have probably saved the other money I threw at the car.
If you have a high idle issue or other drivability issues, get the car scanned by somebody with the right equipment. DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME OR MONEY ON ANY OTHER COURSE>
It's Sunny, warm, and the Eagles aren't on till 8:30 tonight. I'm gonna go play with my Jag.
Last edited by Hitch; 10-30-2016 at 08:36 AM.
#24
#25
#26
Autologic had service packs that you would have to subscribe to for access. If someone doesn't work on enough Audi's, that shop wouldn't pay for that service pack.
They seem to have given up on the service packs. I suppose your shop may not have upgraded its equipment, perhaps still under the previous service pack format.
If you look through their website, it's quite informative. Definitely not interested in servicing the home DIY mechanic.
I suppose this is why many shops charge a flat fee, like $150 just to hook it up, you're in essence, paying for a part of the subscription fee.
They seem to have given up on the service packs. I suppose your shop may not have upgraded its equipment, perhaps still under the previous service pack format.
If you look through their website, it's quite informative. Definitely not interested in servicing the home DIY mechanic.
I suppose this is why many shops charge a flat fee, like $150 just to hook it up, you're in essence, paying for a part of the subscription fee.
Last edited by Vee; 10-30-2016 at 02:07 PM.
#28
Hitch,
It was not clear in your post whether the Autologic programmer carried out a reset of the idle adaptive settings, thanks to a special package software.
I thought that could only be done using WDS with a PDU (or maybe IDS with a VCM, unclear).
Can you confirm please?
If so would it mean that the adaptive reset could be carried out using IDS/VCM (did anyone try that?), or that possibly by tweaking IDS, this could be successfully carried out without needing the white elephant PDU?
It was not clear in your post whether the Autologic programmer carried out a reset of the idle adaptive settings, thanks to a special package software.
I thought that could only be done using WDS with a PDU (or maybe IDS with a VCM, unclear).
Can you confirm please?
If so would it mean that the adaptive reset could be carried out using IDS/VCM (did anyone try that?), or that possibly by tweaking IDS, this could be successfully carried out without needing the white elephant PDU?
#29
Serge,
To the best of my knowledge, the Autologic Programmer did carry out a reset of the idle adaptive settings, thanks to a special package software specifically for Jaguar.
Perhaps I should have asked more questions but I was just happy that the darn car was running correctly.
The only thing they were not able to do was a re-orientation of my O2 sensors. He said that this was because my D position sensor was pegging out at a reading of 5 volts(I believe...it was 5 something)
To the best of my knowledge, the Autologic Programmer did carry out a reset of the idle adaptive settings, thanks to a special package software specifically for Jaguar.
Perhaps I should have asked more questions but I was just happy that the darn car was running correctly.
The only thing they were not able to do was a re-orientation of my O2 sensors. He said that this was because my D position sensor was pegging out at a reading of 5 volts(I believe...it was 5 something)
#30
high idle on my 1996 XJS with 44,425 miles
The Idle on the car would drop down to around 7rmps when it would warm up. when put into drive it would come down to around 5rmps. Recently the idel would stay at around 12rmp when in park and drop to around 8rpm in drive. I don't know where to start... I was thinking of replacing the 'idle Control Valve to start. Where should I start.
#31
I'm afraid you'd be trading in one issue for another. My other ECU will not go into closed loop. It will not read a negative value for the oxygen sensors.
If I ever find someone capable of fixing it, I will have it reconditioned. Until then, I can't help you.
I'm not sure fuel would leak out of a gap only 2 thousandths wide. That's pretty damn slim. You could get a feeler gauge in there to check. Could be the answer? I have to admit, I've never done it myself, so it could be worth a try?
If I ever find someone capable of fixing it, I will have it reconditioned. Until then, I can't help you.
I'm not sure fuel would leak out of a gap only 2 thousandths wide. That's pretty damn slim. You could get a feeler gauge in there to check. Could be the answer? I have to admit, I've never done it myself, so it could be worth a try?
WELCOME TO AJ6 ENGINEERING / AJ6 Engineering
#32
The Idle on the car would drop down to around 7rmps when it would warm up. when put into drive it would come down to around 5rmps. Recently the idel would stay at around 12rmp when in park and drop to around 8rpm in drive. I don't know where to start... I was thinking of replacing the 'idle Control Valve to start. Where should I start.
Have you cleaned the throttle body? It won't take you long and it's a common issue with this engine. The best way to do it is to remove the throttle body to make sure you clean both ends. Try to keep the carb cleaner fluid from pooling at the bottom where your Throttle Potentiometer is located. Its an expensive part.
I would also recommend checking the TPS (Throttle Potentiometer Sensor). Sometime just unplugging and plugging it back in helps. That harness connection gets pretty toasty down there. I'm planning on replacing my harness wires down there this fall, when the weather gets cooler.
Ultimately you should start your own new thread.
#34
#35
There are two ways of doing it.
1. With the right diagnostic computer, it's a simple 3 minute process, once you hook up to the OBD2 port. A PDU or WDS can do this, and then there are aftermarkets that can do it too, including a Mongoose.
2. There is a way to manually set it. Basically you take the throttle body off, enlargen the holes on the TPS and then screw it back on, tight enough to hold it in place, but loose enough that you can still adjust it by hand with a little effort. Place it back on the car, get it to run, adjust the TPS, in the blind, by hand, and once the idle is where it should be, tighten it, again, still blind, locking it in place. You'' be doing this blind, because the TPS is upside down in an area easily accessed by hands, but not by eyes. - It might also just be toasty wires at the TPS harness. With the engine running, and the idle high, see if playing around with the TPS harness does anything?
No matter what, you'll want to clean that throttle body. It would be a shame to pay someone to fix it, and then have it all screwed up because of sludge left inside the throttle body.
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