That's looks like the ignition switch. To see if it causing the issue disconnect it.......... Have you measured the current draw at the battery?

 

 

First thing to do is establish how much draw there is. You can do this with a clamp -on amp device. If the total draw or parasitic drain is less than 10amp, you can then begin using your multi meter. Use a good one (Fluke) that has an up to 10 amp measuring connection. If you're talking about a small drain i would think your total draw would be well under 10 amps. If it's over 10 amps, you'll have to use a meter with a higher inline amps limitation or just continue to use the clamp on device and start pulling fuses starting with the larger ones until the amp reading goes away.
Once you have recorded your total draw. let's say 5 amps, you can start probing each fuse for a voltage drop across it. The little plastic blade fuses have exposed points over each blade so that you don't have top remove the blade fuse to check the voltage drop across it. Just probe the exposed metal point. If the voltage reading is 0 volts across each one, there is not current running through it. Keep probing each fuse to find a fuse with a high current, or any current running through it. I would start with the larger rated fuses first as those provide power to a smaller group of fuses. Then you can narrow down the circuit. Use your electrical diagram for fuse numbers and associated circuits to weave your way from larger fuse to the smaller groups until you find the culprit circuit and or device connected to it.
Hope that helps.

 

I think you mean milliamps, 10 amps would drain the battery in a couple of hours. Typical parasitic current draw should be less than 0.1amps.

There will also be NO measurable (with a Fluke meter) voltage drop across a fuse as it has little resistance, you would need to remove the fuse to measure a voltage drop if the circuit was drawing current.

 

Yes, you are right about miliamps.
I failed to also say place the Fluke meter on Milivolts to test each fuse. All we're looking for is a fuse that is drawing something compared to those not drawing any. Also, If he knows it the alarm system for sure, then it would just be a case of finding which door sensor is keeping the system alive and possibly parasitic drain is from that.

 

Hi Jet

It could be your Boot/Trunk Light, that is staying on

Set your Smartphone to Video and put it in the Boot/Trunk while you close the Lid and see what you get

I have had this type of Battery Drain on all of my Cars, which was caused by the Car Alarm which was pretty useless anyway as I accidentally disarmed it by touching two wires together

And so I took the 'el cheapo' and very effective way out, by fitting a Battery Car-discarnect which are all over ebay for round about a Fiver!

Absolutely Brilliant! as with this connected my Car Starts every time, with no maintenance charging whatsoever and also provides another hoop for a potential car thief to jump through




The Amazing Dis-carnector has to be one of the best things that I have ever bought, as it disconnects the battery with a simple turn of that green knob

 

 

If you leave the fuse in and it is good there will be no voltage drop across the fuse, unless there is a problem with the fuse. I = V x R so if a fuse has zero (for all intent and purpose) resistance the voltage will also be zero. You must pull the fuse to measure the voltage drop, then any current flow will cause effectively a 12volt drop.

 

What OB said is a good one, I looked for a current drain issue, and it turned out to be the boot light not turning off.

 

Trunk/boot light is a good candidate but why would the poster say something like a suspected alarm system issue..unless the trunk/boot latch were not working which I guess could be common to both the light and alarm. I don't remember seeing a mechanical switch on the striker plate or surrounding areas for a light switch unless it is a prox switch hidden near the latch behind covering panels. One way to check is to just pull out the bulbs of the boot area and see if that is it. That would at least take the electrical load off even if the switch were not turning the light off. But then if the alarm were still suspected, the system would still not "see" the trunk/boot closed and that may be the cause of the drain.

 

I see what you are saying but I remember seeing a video of a guy probing each fuse knowing he had a constant draw and through this method of measuring across the fuse of the live circuit, he could read a value on his meter. All the other non drawing circuits showed no value until he probed the live one. That was a high amp(25A) fuse. From there he followed the wiring diagram to the sub fuses that it served and found another live fuse one which ended up being a faulty device leaking to ground.
Measuring across the fuse in situ and looking for the tiniest voltage drop across it was supposed to be a shortcut to actually pulling each fuse and bridging a milli ammeter between the contacts.

 

My 95 convertible had the same problem when I first bought it. I simply opened the trunk, put my camera/phone on record. I laid the phone in the trunk, shut it, then reopened. Watch video. Simple solution? I disconnected the trunk lights, problem solved. The car can now sit for weeks at a time without the battery going dead.