There was barely any fuel in the tank when I got it, I did purge a bit out and it looked surprisingly clean, what concerned me was the lack of fuel filter.... Just an empty bracket where it should be so I am leaning very much toward blocked injectors at the moment

 

So the fuel filter was "bypassed"? What did they use to bypass the filter. Would have been a series of hoses with fittings, etc.

 

It litterly went from the metal fuel pipe under the car to rubber hose, back to metal fuel pipe into the engine bay, fuel filter was nowhere just the brackets that normally hold it. I've fit in an inline fuel filter now

 

Supposedly you can run the injectors with a 9volt battery. In other words, remove the injectors, soak in fuel or injector cleaner and use the battery to activate the injectors with the cleaner in it.

 

Yeh I will be looking into that tonight, another member above has kindly linked me to his thread where he removes and cleans his injectors

 

Oliver,

The fuel filter on a 96 is located on the drivers side wheel well. Pull the tire off and the panel is located on the inner fender liner.

How did they bypass the original fuel filter line to the fuel pressure regulator? Are you sure that you didn’t install the fuel filter on the return line to the tank.

To confirm look at the original fuel filter to insure as you mentioned was taken out of the loop.

I have had my 96...... 2+2 for over 5 years and I believe it is the best and most reliable of all the British Sports Cars I have ever owned!!!!!!

It has been on several Florida trips up North....NO issues!!


Good Luck

Softball60/Paul

 

Hi, so I'm in the UK so it would be the passenger side wheel, I've had the wheel off and removed the plastic cover and there was no fuel filter just a rubber hose joined on to the main metal pipe where the filter should be, I removed and replaced the hose with an inline fuel filter now. I can confirm it's definitely on the main fuel line to the engine

Thanks
Olie

 

So tonight I've done the following

Removed the fuel rail and injectors, the injectors did seem too dirty, managed to clean all the filters as got a few horrible bits out, put it all back together and wouldn't fire on the first few cranks, did the full throttle with 3 primes of the pump and she ran again but refused to idle but as long as we kept the revs up she stayed running longer than it has done.

What we've noticed is that the oil pressure gauge does not budge at all, we removed the connector and grounded it to see if it would move and nothing.
There is no oil light on at first ignition or when it's running.

Removed the CPS ready for the new one, upon closer inspection the metal end of it is quite corroded so fingers crossed a new one will make a difference but I still feel that it's more a fuel issue

Didn't have a chance to remove throttle body and clean but is on the list.

To summerize

• New spark plugs
• New fuel filter
• Coils tested and confirmed all sparking
• Compression good
• Roughly 5 gallons of fuel in with bottle of injector cleaner
• CPS removed ready for new one to arrive

 

Oliver,

Good work. Did you try running the injectors out of the engine to see if you've got a good spray pattern on each of them? It might still be the injectors not spraying properly.

Cheers

Paul

 

Hello Oliver

In regards to your oil pressure gauge not working, this is thinking outside the box, and you might not like the idea

But

You can purchase what is known as a oil sandwich plate that fits between the engine block and the oil filter. You can then run an additional (temporary or permanent) gauge into the cab for piece of mind until your factory gauge is fixed.

Cost is not much, does mean dropping the oil though. Also drops the oil filter down an inch or so, not sure what gap you have on your car under your filter

Cheers
Steve

 

If the throttle body is restricted from closing, you could be having idle problems from that. If you don’t have time for a full clean, at least pull the intake hose off and go in with a carb cleaner soaked rag and get out what you can.

I’m interested in hearing if you have confirmed that the injectors all do spray. I know you cleaned them, but I’m not sure we know for a fact that we can eliminate the injectors from your list.

The Throttle Potentiometer Sensor is one of the sensors they car needs to read to fire the car up. I wonder if that’s gone bad when parked in idle. Shooting up the throttle body with cleaner can do that.

 

Hi Paul, was a bit pushed for time so didn't have a chance to make up a rig to test the injectors, when the cps turns up if that doesn't help then I'll remove them again on the rail and test them all.

Steve thanks for that, I'll look into it, thinking it could just be the unit gummed up as it's not been ran for a while. New oil and filter will be going on soon so I'll see if that changed anything

Unfortunately cps didn't turn up today so can't really do much else but some little interior jobs but I'll put a separate post up and update this post when the new cps is fitted

 

So new cps arrived, installed and I suspected no change, I'm thinking it has to be fuel pressure related, could the fuel pressure regulator be faulty? Should I be taking the tank out and inspecting the pump even though its making all the right noises?

 

Oliver,

If the car is starting, the pump is probably working. Taking it out is a real pain, so don't think about doing that unless you absolutely know it's the problem. As you've got a filter which can presumably flow fuel at reasonable pressure, I'd suggest you go back to the injectors and be absolutely sure that they are all spraying correctly at idle conditions.

Cheers

Paul

 

Hi Paul

The pumb definitely seems to be working but a couple of people have said to me about the chance it could still be faulty and that there is some sort of no return valve that could be faulty on it, is this not right? The fuel filter is just a generic inline one but it's brand new. Yeh I will revist them again, am I right in thinking I should hear a clicking noise from them?

Thanks

 

Oliver,

The pump COULD be faulty but you know its running and apparently able to deliver fuel at higher revs, so I wouldn't start there, as it really is a pain. You know that the car was running without a filter and you found dirt in the injector filters. It's not just about whether they are clicking, it's really about the correct spray pattern and it's very easy for tiny amounts of debris to partially block them. Even more likely if it had no filter.

So get the injectors spraying correctly and see where that leaves you.

Cheers

Paul

 

Hi Oliver

This is a Part of an Injector, that many people never get to see

Which is the 'Basket Filter' that is pushed into the Top of the Injector and this is a very fine mesh Filter, which is very easily blocked by debris and that could be the reason that the Injector seems Blocked

Which of course it could well be, only this time at the Fuel Inlet instead of the Fuel (Spray) Outlet

Providing you've got some replacement 'Filter Baskets' (ebay) you can pull the old ones out with a Screw and a Pair of Pliers but before you put a New Filter Basket into the Injector, just make sure that the Injector Sprays ok (with some Carb Cleaner)

As if it doesn't you've wasted a 'Basket Filter' as they don't come out as easily as when you put them in and although the really don't look like much, they are quite expensive and if you end up replacing one or more of the Injectors, you are going to need to have enough 'Basket Filters' to go in them

Fuel Injector Basket Filters/Removing The Fuel Tank/Replacing The Pump and lots more with loads of Photos

 

Hello Oliver

There was a thread not that long ago about a non-functioning return valve associated with the fuel pump, instead of removing the fuel pump from the tank, I believe one was placed in the engine bay. I remember it was a 6 cylinder car.

I had a quick search through the forum, but since it was not applicable to mine - I did not bookmark the thread and could not find it

It solved the problem easily and cheaply

Cheers
Steve

 

Check for water in the fuel tank.

 

So a little slow on updates as I've been doing various things, removed and cleaned the entire throttle body, broke a bolt on the tps which infuriated me as I spent hours slowly removing it and re-threading it, all back together and no go, removed the maf to inspect and clean, on putting back on noticed a completely broken wire.... Couldn't believe it, peeled back the protection, stripped a bit of wire out and touched the ends together and she fired striaght up, ran and idled perfectly....... I could have honestly cried after spending hours of my evening trying.

It was short lived

Tried to solder the 2 wires together with no joy as there wasn't enough wire showing so decided I'd need to get another plug so snipped the other two wires and stripped them, put some spade connectors on the 3 as a temp measure, covered them in electrical tape and plugged them in to the correct connections but it just refuses again.

Have I done something wrong? Is there's a fuse for the maf which I could have inadvertently blown?