Hello ALL. I have a 1996 XJS 4.0 that just turned 54,000 miles. I keep it well maintained. But it has recently developed a bit of no-drive syndrome. So I'm getting some work done to it. But as long as I'm at it, is there any "quirks" I should be aware ? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

No drive meaning... what? Won’t start, or literally it’s running and you put it in drive and it doesn’t move?

if your talking about an intermittent no start, then on a 96 4.0 this is classic CPS old age part LHE1640AA

 

Could you be less vague? Help us help you.

What is the specific no-start problem? Could be a fuel filter, could be bad spark plugs, oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, ignition coils...

What work are you doing to it? You should swap out the ******* hose just inside the intake manifold. That's a 25 year hose now.

 

Some sort of introduction would be nice (with photo's).

I know this is your first post, But this forum has a lot of knowledge that will help if you ask questions with good details.

I am no help at all due to the 16 years difference in models - but I enjoy reading the issues and possible solutions for all our XJS's

Cheers
Steve

 

Hello again. Thanks for the initial replies. LOL. Yes, I was quite vague. Sorry. Let me give a little background first. I'm the second owner of the car since 2000. So I've had it for almost 20 years now. When I bought it in 2000 it had 19,000 miles. It just turned 54,000. But, the last 4,000 miles has been over a 7 year period. It spends most of it's time in a garage with a battery tender under a custom dust cover. I drive it so seldom that I check the oil and trans fluid by sight/color versus months. Sort of treated like a trailer queen. LOL. I know I should drive it more to keep things working. So, besides routine maintenance, oil/filter changes, air filters, etc. Here is what I have done to date:
50,000 miles: New brakes, rotors front and rear. New shocks (all 6). New spark plugs. New drive belts. New battery. But this was done at least 7 years ago !!
54,000 miles (last week): Fluids Changed: Engine oil, Engine coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, rear axle fluid, A/C drained and recharged. New battery. I had all this done at the local Jaguar dealer. While there, the Tech mentioned the following: The transmission pan gasket was just starting to leak (fluid was clean and the car shifts fine), the drive belts are worn, a small leak in the front seal of the A/C compressor as well as the high-side Schrader valve, and front wheel bearings need repacked/replaced. DARN.
So, here is what I have scheduled for next week with an independent shop that is very familiar with the car:
1) Transmission Service. Change fluid, filter, pan gasket, and adjust bands (if needed).
2) Front Wheel Bearings. New outer wheel bearings and inspect inner bearings. (Maybe change the inner bearings also while at it ?)
3) New Drive Belts.
4) A/C. New front compressor seal (or replace compressor - hope not ) and high-side Schrader valve, Recharge system.

So, I think the above should get me back in shape. The trans fluid/filter was changed at 30,000 miles. But that was MANY years ago. The fluid is still clean enough to see through the dip stick. You wouldn't think that the wheel bearings, A/C front seal, trans pan gasket, etc. would all be needed at this mileage. Maybe partially due to no-drive syndrome (?)
Anyway, my question to you experts would be: As long as the it's in for the above service, is there anything else I should have them inspect/replace while it's there ? Above mentions a hose near the manifold ?
Any suggestions much appreciated. The car looks and runs like a champ. Rick
I know it has low mileage, but I also realize it's 24 years old - and sits most of the time. By the way, just put new tires on her. Less than 500 miles ago.

 

What tires did you get and do you like them so far?

 

ricjkystl,

A few thoughts:

- I'd be very surprised if the bands need adjusting on your autobox. what I would suggest is that you get the fluid properly flushed through the torque converter and oild cooler and lines. A standard drain and refill will only remove about 3.5 litres out of a total of 9 litres. You can either do multiple (5) drain, run and refills, or else disconnect the oil cooler line at the box end and run the car and cycle the box whilst constantly filling via the dipstick as the box pumps out through the cooler return line.

- The belts re long-lived on the 4 litre cars. I'm also surpised that they need changing after being replaced only 7 years and 4,000 miles ago

- If the front seal has gone on the A/C compressor, you have to assume that the rear seals may also need changing soon. And if you're changing the front seal, should the bearings also need changing? I'd be tempted to buy a new / recon compressor. I did exactly that last year when my front seal went and paid about £250 from SNG Barratts. I'd also put a new receiver drier whilst you're changing all the aircon bits.

Good luck

Paul

 

I stand by my "replace the NBC2273AB" hose comment earlier. If you're swapping out belts, this one will be more pressing.

You didn't really go into any more detail about the no-start symptoms.

Occasional no start means:
a. cranks, but won't turn over,
b. doesn't crank but clicks,
c. nothing, and
d. none of the above?

 

Hi BRG. The new tires are Pirelli P7 Centurato All-Season Radials 225/60/R16. At 500 miles I don't have much experience yet. But so far, yes, I like them. Seems to have good traction and a smooth ride. The tire also seems to have a high rating from users.
Rick

 

PTJS1: Hi Paul. Thanks so much for your response. All very good advise.
Trans: The shop says they have a machine that will pump ALL the fluid from the trans, converter, lines, etc. Which of course I will have done. But the pan will still come off and the pan gasket and filter changed.
Drive Belts: Good question. Back 7+ years ago I paid to have both drive belts changed. But, as the Dealer mechanic showed me, this was never done. The shop this was at is now long gone. Good thing the mechanic caught this. Now I am wondering if the spark plugs were ever changed ? I need to start paying closer attention to things. DARN.
A/C: Yes, in this case, it would seem more prudent to just change out the compressor. And, thanks for the reminder about the receiver/drier. I now remember that was the norm when changing compressors. I'll make sure it gets done.
Thanks again for the suggestions. Glad I joined this Forum.
Rick

 

Hi Vee. Sorry I caused some confusion. No starting problems what so ever.. Fires up right away every time.

Please let me know what this hose is under the intake manifold. Is that the Jag part number ? Can you explain a bit more ? Thanks.

Rick

 

Thanks. I used to use Pirelli P4000 (OEM), but they stopped making them years ago. I wanted the P7s you speak of, but a few years ago, they couldn't be found or located in size/speed rating required. I went with Bridgestone Potenzas, and that was a huge mistake. When I took the worn P4000s off, they still rode better than these Potenzas. Very harsh from Day 1, and still harsh. If I can't get the P7s next, I will try Continentals or see if Michelin has something that fits. Thnx for the reply.

 

Hi again Vee. I looked up that part number. OK, water rail to water pump. I just ordered it. Will check out the other hoses also. Thanks for the tip.

Rick

 

Well, there certainly are other hoses you can change, but all of the other hoses can be squeezed by hand and checked. The one I gave you the part number for...hidden underneath the intake manifold. It fails without warning because it cannot be checked and is almost always forgotten, because out of sight, out of mind.

I misunderstood your "no drive syndrome" as a no-start syndrome.

I apologize.

You seem to be on top of maintenance. Most people skip the tranny filter, but it's nice to see it getting done. I'll be doing that this summer to my own car.

 

Hi Vee. Well, thanks again. I order that hose yesterday and should receive it well before next weekend when it goes to the shop. I'll bring it with me and have them add that to the work list. And I'll have them double check the other hoses.
I've never been bashful for utilizing other peoples knowledge and experience to my benefit. LOL Items like that little hose are exactly the type of information I was looking for when starting this Thread. Shows me how valuable a Forum like this can be.
Thanks again for everyone's help. I'll report back after the work is done. Nothing major. Just a bunch of small stuff.

Rick

 

UPDATE: Hello again. Well, I picked up the Jag this past Thursday from the shop. In addition to the maintenance above, here is what was done:
- A/C: New compressor, receiver/dryer, and high side Schrader valve replaced. System re-charged and checked.
- Drive belts replaced.
- Hot water valve replaced.
- Transmission fluid completely evacuated and replaced along with new filter and pan gasket.
- Both inner and outer wheel bearings replaced.

ALL the other fluids were renewed two weeks ago, as well as new tires and battery. And all the brakes and rotors as well as all the shocks and spark plugs were changed at 50, 000 miles. So, I think I'm good for a while. LOL Haven't had a chance to drive her since the 6 mile trip from the shop (and almost freezing rain !!!) since I had to leave town very early Friday morning. So with this crappy, wet weather we've been having lately, she is at least happy back in her stall plugged in to the outlet and her blanket covering her. LOL

While at the shop up on a rack, I had them check the so called Devil hose (best they could). They told me that even with minimal access it appeared to be good, and certainly not leaking. I trust their opinion on this for now since the owner of the shop owns a XKE V-12 himself, and his Techs are very familiar with both the 6 and 12 cylinders both. However, they understood me being somewhat nervous about it. And they agreed with Vee's post here on this Thread. So, I'm thinking it would be a good idea to figure on replacing the hose and water rail gaskets sometime this Spring. As noted, this hose does not just develop a leak, but bursts lengthwise which would empty all the coolant in no time. Is my thinking right on this ?

Rick

 

In a few miles, you should get the car nice and warm, then give it a good run. Bring the revs up

 

Hi Brewtech. Yes, that's exactly what I plan to do with her. This Sunday it's supposed to be 60F here and sunny. Looking forward to it.

Rick

 

UPDATE: WellI took her out for a spin early this morning. Warmed her up for a few miles and took to the Interstate. Gave her some good throttle and cranked her up to 80+. Took her no effort at all. LOL Amazing what a pleasure these cars are to drive when in proper repair. The engine is running so smooth that you can't even feel her idle while at a stop.
I went back to basics and started re-reading the original owners booklets. There is a mention to run the A/C briefly once a week to keep the seals oiled. I won't forget this time.
While replacing the hot water valve, all the other hoses were checked and said to be in good condition. Also checked them myself today and all appears good. Since the car never sees inclement weather, maybe that has something to do with the current hose condition (?). But I still can't seem to stop thinking about that Devil hose. I guess the only cure is to schedule an appointment this Spring and get it replaced. $$$$ Wonder how long of a job that is for an experienced shop ?
Anyway, she is running like a champ now. Thanks for all the suggestions. Super valuable Forum.
Rick

 

There sure is .......for 10 minutes. I try to never forget this unless there is inclement weather and I can’t drive the car. Seal will leak on my experience unless you do this.