I'm posting this to verify something. Today, I had the factory speakers, commonly understood to be about 5 1/4", replaced.

I'd have done it myself, but an injury is preventing me from... Well... Anything to do with dexterity.

We used Focal 6 1/2" Access coaxial drivers, which are actually over-sized. They actually equate to a 6 3/4" driver, trading a bit of excursion for piston area. The top mounting depth is 2 9/16".

They fit neatly under the factory grills with no issues. So, if you were wondering if you could fit something with a proper amount of piston area, wonder no more.

You can.

So, don't limit yourself to a smaller driver. There is no need to compromise.

I'll also note that this vehicle could really benefit from sound deadening. I'll be hitting the floor and the doors in the next couple of weeks.

I'd have used better drivers, but it's just a temporary measure. The front channels dropped, and the Access drivers were all we had on hand. I've got a trip coming next week, and I'm not driving 350 miles without tunes.

Focals are good speakers, but I'll use a higher line in couple of months. If you aren't running an amp, their Access line is sensitive enough to be more than happy with what's built into the receiver without running into clipping issues at higher volumes.

That's why I was glad these were the ones they had in stock. Haven't put the amp rack in the trunk yet.

 

Thank you for this topic. One of the door speakers in my 95 died last week and I am trying to figure out what to replace them with. I thought only 5 1/4 would fit.

Just to recap, 6 1/2 speakers will fit in the doors, correct?

What brand would you recommend I use if I am *only* replacing the speakers, meaning I an keeping the original deck and not adding an amp?

Thanks!!

 

I have a 1996 and I did the speaker swap.

I believe that a 6-1/2" will fit with modifications. The hole was not large enough for the 6-1/2" speakers I bought (and later returned).

I will confirm that you can't buy a speaker deep enough to cause a problem. The cavity is deep enough for any 5-1/4" speaker. I read somewhere that it was supposed to be limited to 2-1/8" or something like that. Not true.

Stick to the 5-1/4" for the easiest replacement experience.

Upgrade to 6-1/2" if you're ok with modifying the inside support. I think the OP was trying to say that the 6-1/2" fits well behind the speaker grills in the car.

 

They dropped right in. I'd not have mentioned it if modifications were required.

Mind you, it's a '96, and there are little changes here and there in the vehicle versus other models. I don't know why, but there are.

The Focal units I used accept a cutout diameter of 5 9/16". Many 6.5" drivers will work with such a cutout or smaller, and as such will be a decent fit.

The limitations you commonly run into are related to basket size/shape and top mounting depth. Some basket supports extend nearly to the edge of the mounting ring, or are very wide, which can interfere with certain cutout styles.

Most good speakers manage to avoid such design stupidity. Now, when you step into stuff like Morel, Dynaudio, DLS, Rainbow, and so on, things change. If you have any of that on a rack, though, you ought to know what you are getting into.

This being known, if you aren't sure whether or not a speaker will fit, have a look at it's specs. If the cutout diameter is that size or smaller, and it's mounting depth is that size or smaller, you shouldn't have any problems.

I'm going to tell you now, though, that when you swap speakers, go ahead and lay Dynamat. Some cars get away without it just fine, but this one could really use it.

Here is a link to the drivers we used:

Focal Access 165CA1 SG 6-3/4" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

I'm going to fit the K2 Power models later, but I do know beyond a shadow of a doubt that these access models will drop right in if you want sound now, and they aren't bad at all.

They are all of ten to twenty bucks more at most shops, so buy them local if you can. Support the little guy so car audio doesn't die.

 

Honestly, I'd suggest the precise models I purchased. They work very well with low power systems, and will help keep the stress off the receiver.

If you are using the factory unit, it's an old Alpine. They are pretty darn good, actually, and will more than run you out of the car with those speakers.

 

Thanks much for the info kennith. Just one more thing: The speakers you linked are 6 3/4. I thought you said the ones you fitted where 6 1/2. Sorry for all the questions, but before I order them I want to make sure they are correct.

Thanks again for explaining this

 

That 6 3/4 is an oversize 6 1/2. They just traded some surround for a bit more cone.

 

The rears just weren't meshing. The vehicle needs a bit coming from all four drivers to kick out around 60hz, and pulling the stage back a bit flat-out crushed the midrange.

Those factory drivers had to go, and I felt like getting my hands dirty.

I just tossed two more of those Focals in the rear. Back there, they have to be bottom-mounted to preserve the factory grilles. No worries. It works out fine.

I also went about the doors with Dynamat. Fully layered and sealed as much as possible with Xtreme. It will take more than dampening material to seal the rear mounts, but I'll glass under there eventually. I did lay some mat where it mattered, though.

Night and day. Night and #$%^@#$ day.

Do the rears if you can, man. That extra piston area really makes a difference in this car. Far more than other cars. The rears are right behind you, so it doesn't take much to fill out the bass without pulling the image away from the dash. You can just drop in identical drivers.

I'm replacing the rear "seats" with a cargo shelf (simulated leather with stainless runners, to keep that British GT look), and the seat-backs with a frenched amp-rack.

Here's the amp:



Now, that's not mine, but mine is identical, minus the ".2" nomenclature. It's a period-correct PPI A404; the legendary Art Series, internally updated by Mantz himself. The thing is MINT.

I think it will look very nice, discretely frenched into that white '96 cabriolet.

 

Thanks for posting this before I ordered the first pair, ill just order two pairs instead

You are saying that the very same ones for the front (6 3/4 ) will fit on the back?? What do you mean "bottom mounted"? . I've been looking up dynamat and Extreme and I guess they are insulators ? Sorry, I am afraid I am not very familiar with some of these things

I have thought about turning the rear seats into an storage bin like the earlier convertibles. As a matter of I know of at least one member in the other forum who has already done in, looked great...but in the end I always want to keep the little seats. ( I guess I am thinking I am going to be finding some hobbits needing a ride somewhere??) Do post pics when you finish your project!

Thanks!!

 

Yep, put Alpines and MTX's in my convertible, no problem, sound awesome

 

Yeah. The same ones go in the back.

Top-mounting a speaker means dropping it into the hole and screwing it in. The mounting ring sits above the metal.

Bottom-mounting means pushing it up behind the hole, and screwing it in. The mounting ring sits below the metal.

Either is fine. Choosing appropriately can let you get away with a speaker that would not otherwise fit. The difference between top and bottom-mounting will be immediately obvious when you hold the speakers up to the metal. It sounds more complicated on paper.

Dynamat is simply a sound deadening material. The company produces several different types, to suit different needs and applications. I generally keep the Xtreme around, because it will fit behind pretty much anything.

That's just one brand, though. If you want something cheaper, it's available. Look before you buy. Some types use lead, bitumen, and things of that nature. I wouldn't turn my nose up at it, the job is still done, but if I had kids I'd question using such things.

Sound deadening material simply increases the mass of the panel and absorbs reflected waves.

You don't have to apply sound deadening material. The new speakers will still blow you away without it, but if it's in the budget and you've got the time, it's worth it.

This is a good start for a new speaker install. It's pretty idiot-proof, and won't take all day. It's also cheap. Fully lining doors can get expensive and troublesome. It also won't require specialized tools, because it's a small job. You can get away with a hair dryer and the handle of a paint brush installing no more than this:

Dynamat 10415 Xtreme Speaker Kit Two 10-in. x 10-in. Sheets at Crutchfield.com

I'd suggest trying that little procedure. It will be a nice, educational little romp into the world of trying to make a trash can sound like a recording studio.

Just try it on the fronts, to start. Don't get too carried away, as it becomes incredibly expensive very quickly. With the door panel off, you can listen to the speakers both with and without the deadening to hear the difference.

 

I sent you a PM.