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Hello all I have a 96 xj12 and currently have the subrame out and sump exposed as I go through the front end of the car. I'm doing all the front suspension with bushings, ball joints etc, fixed the leaking oil cooler hoses etc.
I have the two bottom end gaskets and am trying to get my head around the oil feed O ring replacement logic in the oil filter housing and the main oil feed lines running on both sides of the baffle plate.
I've read the sticky doc 'Jaguar V12 engine oil leaks' but it's not clear to me how or where the drain back housing comes apart at the bottom of the filter housing comes apart. Is this the unit that comes off with the sandwich plate or the part above held on by 4 bolts that is a part of the oil filter housing?I'd like to see if I can replace those if possible but am also of a mind to leave be in case I create new leaks...
Where is the 'By-Pass housing that has o/rings that dry up and leak' on the sandwich plate? Is this the part attached to the sandwich plate?
Most importantly 'whilst the plate is off, I strongly suggest going inside the engine, and replacing the o/rings on the oil suction, and supply pipes. These leak internally, and oil pressure AND flow is affected'.
I'd really like to do this while the engine is available but not clear where or how in detail. I can unbolt the two pipes running the length of the sump but can't find any good intel on what goes where and why. I wish there was a good exploded parts book for the 6.0.
The oil leak from the filter housing is prevented by replacing the large O ring accessed by unbolting the two castings joined together at the blue area in the attached photo.
The oil supply pipes in the sump can only be accessed by removing the sump and the sandwich plate, and they look like this photo. The pipes poke into castings that have O rings in them to seal, you can see one in the first photo below, and the last one. It is these O rings that should be changed, using VITON ones, which resist hardening with heat:
Thanks Greg - are those in sump oil lines easy to take off? I was a bit queasy about unfastening stuff I don't understand...I have a box of viton o rings hopefully I have the right size...
Originally Posted by Greg in France
The oil leak from the filter housing is prevented by replacing the large O ring accessed by unbolting the two castings joined together at the blue area in the attached photo.
The oil supply pipes in the sump can only be accessed by removing the sump and the sandwich plate, and they look like this photo. The pipes poke into castings that have O rings in them to seal, you can see one in the first photo below, and the last one. It is these O rings that should be changed, using VITON ones, which resist hardening with heat:
another EAC2495 o ring question about 6.0 oil supply lines
On my 6.0 I have two oil supply lines - the one with the delivery funnel which I took off and cleaned. Presumably it's not a big deal if that leaks since all the oil going that way is heading south anyway?
The other line is only attached with one bolt I can see and presumably is route one back up into the engine and would benefit from an EAC2495 o ring at each end. I've wiggled it with the bolt out but it doesn't seem to want to come down, am I missing something here? Now I've wiggled it it is likely to be more leaky so I'd like to get that sorted before I put the sandwich plate and sump back. I've got the bypass valve squeaky clean and see the two o rings. I think I'll use anaerobic sealer on that at the joint.
The one with the "funnel" is theb oil pickup from the sump to the engine.
Post a photo of the other, but it sounds like the pipe from the pump to the filter. If so it might need a casting undone first or it might pull out if you are a bit more rock ape with it. But post a photo and i or others may know for sure.
Aah thanks so that's a very important o ring for the pickup!!
I forgot to take photos at weekend of sump will do so tomorrow
Cheers
Originally Posted by Greg in France
The one with the "funnel" is theb oil pickup from the sump to the engine.
Post a photo of the other, but it sounds like the pipe from the pump to the filter. If so it might need a casting undone first or it might pull out if you are a bit more rock ape with it. But post a photo and i or others may know for sure.
Aah thanks so that's a very important o ring for the pickup!!
I forgot to take photos at weekend of sump will do so tomorrow
Cheers
Here's two pictures- I've taken the oil feed oil supply line off but the line that runs parallel to the oil feed line on the other side is clearly inserted and presumably secured by an o ring. Not sure how to get this out to check the seals.
I was going to put the oil feed supply line back today but when I opened the envelope with the EAC2495 o rings in it they were too big, which caused some undesirable language. I have four more on the way as I thought that was the correct size for the oil cooler lines also.
I found this useful post on the old jag-lovers site but it's for an early car so not sure if the o ring numbers are the same?
I replaced all the lower end o-ring seals with Viton type o-rings. Here are the sizes if anybody is interested. These are for a 76 preHE v12 but I thinkmost of them are applicable across the production range. If you want Viton, just place a “V” after the o-ring size, e.g. 212V.
Oil suction pipe at oil pump Jag part # C33855 o-ring size 212 Oil delivery pipe at oil pump Jag part # C29828 o-ring size 216 Oil delivery pipe to engine block Jag part # C29426 o-ring size 215 Oil pump to oil cooler elbow fitting Jag part # C33855 o-ring size 212 Oil cooler elbow to sandwich plate Jag part # C35657 o-ring size 220 Oil filter housing to oil bypass valve assy .Jag part # C29426 o-ring size 214 Oil bypass valve assy. to sandwich plate Jag part # C34065 o-ring size 222 John Testrake St. Louis, USA
I'm assuming I'm looking for # C33855 o-ring size 212 to fit inside the oil feed line and on the exterior oil cooler lines?
That pipe is J shaped, and if it does not want to pull out on the curved end, do not force it, just undo the casting that the other end goes into and them it will be easy enough to wiggle it out.
O rings: the OEM ones are not viton, so I would not use them, and anyway they are probably NLA. If you cannot find a suitable size, there are loads of places that make them to order, they just need the ID and the thickness needed.
I'm being driven mad with o rings- I ordered the oem Jaguar ones for my 6.0 but they seem too fat to allow the metal oil feed line past them.
I *think* I successfully installed the bigger EBC2291 o ring on the pipe that goes from oil pump to oil filter (along with a new gasket) but When I put the ebc2552 o ring in the groove on the way to the oil pump from pickup the oil feed line just keeps pushing it back into the housing. This now makes me worry the EBC2291 ring also got pushed back too and might be floating around in the housing.
I deliberately got oem rubber to make sure they are correct ( I was thinking of maching them too viton later). Is there some trick I'm missing here? I lubed them with red rubber grease and the oil feed pipe with fresh engine oil but it seems impossible to prevent them from pushing the o ring out of the groove and back?!
I had a hell of a time refitting the heater pipes to the matrix in my Miata. Besides getting just the right size oring (IIRC, 2mm was too big, 1.5mm too small, 1/16" just right), what helped the most was actually grinding a radius on the ends of the pipes. <shrug>
I had a hell of a time refitting the heater pipes to the matrix in my Miata. Besides getting just the right size oring (IIRC, 2mm was too big, 1.5mm too small, 1/16" just right), what helped the most was actually grinding a radius on the ends of the pipes. <shrug>
I purposely paid over the odd$ for 'Jaguar' o rings to be sure of correct size over (possibly random sized) Viton so you can imagine the profanities emanating from under the car after an hour or so of lube, shove and twist....I'll have to gently angle the ends of the tubes to encourage pushing the o ring out as you suggest.