Jonathan
Your 1992 should have a FF system. You can easily check: if there are two steel pipes about 1" diameter coming out of the oil filter head running forward to the front of the engine, you have FF. For those that do not, like me and are interested in converting though, this is what I intend to do:

I have a bypass car and after the winter at some point, I am going to do some tests on whether the oil cooler is getting hot after a blast in hot whether. If it does not (indicating not much oil is being bypassed) I am going to convert to FF. I am currently assembling the bits required which are:

• One FF filter head
• The FF steel pipes from the head
• One plug to blank off the bypass return to the sump sandwich plate on the front RH corner of the sandwich plate
• Two bypass steel oil pipes from the bypass filter head (one from my car and one from a scrapper)

The method I shall use is as follows:

• The screw fittings from the steel pipes to the cooler flexibles are the main problem because they are not the same size. So what I am going to do is take the FF and bypass steel pipes, measure carefully to get the correct final location, then cut off some pipe with the fittings and braze the bit from the bypass steel pipe to the bit from the FF, thereby getting fittings that will connect to my bypass flexibles
• because the FF steels are ID 18mm and the bypass pipe is OD 18.5 I shall reduce the OD of the bypass steels a tiny bit so they slip an inch or so into the FF ones, and then get my mate Pat to braze then together;
• The bypass return flexible from the cooler normally goes to the sandwich plate. By shortening the flexible part and re-swaging the fitting (which distance I shall carefully measure) it will then do up to the return steel. The outflow flexible will do up to the outflow steel in the same place as before.
• Finally I screw the blanking plug into the sandwich plate and all done!

The total cost of all this is no more than about 150 UKP for the second hand parts. Less if I did not have to pay freight from the UK!. I think that to fit the new steels will require either the subframe to be swung down or the engine out.

When the time comes I will post the temperature finding and pics etc of the whole effort.

Greg

 

Now that is some very useful information, as I have a complete T5 and kit ready to go into mine, better stay with the 5.3 in that case.
Cheers!

 

And Greg In France "THANK YOU" I will be checking for that to see if it is a FF or not. I do have the better injectors and rails... so I guess I could have the FF oil cooling ... that would be nice, a relief and a whole lot cheaper than some one selling me one when I have one already....

Yeah and I found a Kit to do the fullflow oil colling on the internet

they only want $1380 for it

 

No point in MHO, the 6.0L heads make enough midrange power and torque and do not have valve seat issues. I have never heard of a 6.0L dropping a valve seat.

Buy a 6.0L with the 4speed auto or have an adapter made to fit a 4L60 freshen up the 6.0 and drop it in.

 

I have the 460LE that came with the engine. I have everything that makes it all work as far as ECUs, transmission and all. But when I looked at the math of the ratios, the 460LE is geared EXACTLY the same as the turbo 400 I have. So without the 3:54 rear gear, I will recieve hardly any performance gain. I haven't pulled my 5.3 yet, and am now getting together the things to do a 5 speed conversion. I also have a set of group 44 heads, that I would love to run, or go ahead and get rid of them.

 

I think you meant to say "4L80E" as that's what Jaguar used behind the 6.0 and, yes, it had the same ratios as the regular "400" trans....plus the .75 4th gear, of course.

The 4L60/4L60E had different ratios than the 400/4L80E

Cheers
DD

 

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correct supertr6; any trans you put in would not benifit much acceleration without a rear gear ratio change, i use a 3.73 final drive ratio,(Jeep gears of all things).

altho the 1st gear in a 4L60E(700R4) would help accel some.

hard to believe that the 4L80 is an over drive 400, designed back in 1963!

USA already had some 500-600hp V8s,and torque around the same numbers!

most of the world was into vehicle handling ,while USA was into HP.

 

This engine/trans came from a early 94 XJ12. I really thought it was a 460LE. The car was/is a Marelli car, not Nippendenso. When I was given the opportunity to have all of it for one price, I got everything pertaining to the engine and transmission operation. I got the Marelli harness intact. I had to cut a couple of places on the transmission,/body ECU. as it is integral with the main harness.

IF this is the 460LE, 1st gear is exactly the same ratio as the 400. I initially was going to use the whole package. But when I realize what all needs to be done, and the 16CU in my 89 has to be recalibrated, as the 36CPU, evn though it has the same physical plug, from what AJ6 engineering tells me, it is a hard thing to integrate into the 89. The 94 6.0 was way ahead of 1989 technology. I know am on the hunt for everything I need to do a 5 speed conversion. I guess I will buying a bellhousing this coming week, as I have a triple disc clutch setup with aluminum flywheel, a couple of Tremec 3550 transmissions that have never been used, as well as the ABS clutch pedal, and housing. Still need lots of bits, but I'm at it.

 

I stand corrected! I am in my shop now, took another look. The auto transmission I have, is a 4l80 tansmission. Thanks Doug!

 

You can use the 89 ECU for the 6.0 and up the fuel pressure or use a MegaSquirt for fuel and keep the Marelli for ignition.

I am going the MS route. Putting the MS2 in my Lucas case so I can use the original harness through the car. The tach input for the MS2 can be from the Marelli as per the Lucas. I will swap over the Marelli to the MS2 when I have the fuel sorted.

I will be installing the MS2 on the 5.3 first and tuning before pulling the 5.3 and turning into a 6.0.

 

I have been HIGHLY recommended to use Emerald. I had never heard of it, but the guy who told me about it, ha run one for 11+ years. Also very familiar with MS, and says he will take Emerald over MS any day. A little over 1K, and it is the ignition and efi.

 

i use the SDS simple digital systems EFI, Canada, had it since 1994, been upgraded twice because technology never stops moving ahead, last time up they sent me a complete amplifier, at NO charge ,just shipping which was cheap anyway!

tuning,as usual, can be frustrating sometimes , but feels great once you get right, along with performance and MPG.

pricing is around the same as most standalone systems, give or take.

 

all sounds good,EXCEPT the triple disc clutch set up,with alumiun flywheel.

car pictured had same setup, but could not be driven in traffic ATALL.
light weight flywheel requierd reving the engine to get moving, the the clutch had no slip,just grabbed full load, and you run into the car in front of you!

most embarissing, it ethier stalled or jumped ahead, nothing in between.

the undrivable beast, going slow in traffic,PIC

 

Now I really hate to hear that!!! When I had my 71 eType, I have to admit that the ocassional old school hot rodder came out of me from time to time. I loved doing rolling burnouts. Went through 3 clutches, until I had a kevlar fingered clutch made. I sold the car before I had a chance to see if it would hold up though. I figured the triple disc set up would be a great set up for such a thing. I had a aluminum flyhwheel, and it did change things a bit, but I got used to it pretty quickly