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I'm still alive, I moved to the country and am retiring in 2 weeks so have not been doing much on my car. It has sat in the shed and hardly used.
The engine is complete and in Melbourne with Norm. Here in Victoria we have had so many lockdowns (confined to home) It's made it difficult to travel to do anything.
I will be selling the engine - I know another failed project, well not quite, someone else will benefit from my toiling.
I'm still alive, I moved to the country and am retiring in 2 weeks so have not been doing much on my car. It has sat in the shed and hardly used.
The engine is complete and in Melbourne with Norm. Here in Victoria we have had so many lockdowns (confined to home) It's made it difficult to travel to do anything.
I will be selling the engine - I know another failed project, well not quite, someone else will benefit from my toiling.
Wise of you to sell it on or just give it away. Here in the USA I often come across items (engines and whole cars) waiting for completion so long they've turned to dust or time and neglect have pushed them past the point of no return.
Years ago I fancied an old pinball machine kept in a old timers garage. I tried to get the guy to give it to me becasue I was young and fascinated by this outdated but colorful machine. I could see it was not being stored well and wanted to give the machine its next life. I don't think he would have sold it at any price, knowing what I know now. Recently the garage where it was kept collapsed and all its contents bull dozed away. In the interim, I bought 3 other pinball machines that I could afford, 2 non-functional and repaired them to play as designed. They're not worth much BUT for me the process is where the value is and they play fine now and then too. Occupations keeps me and others out of trouble and doing the simple tasks like replacing bulbs with my young son was fun and rewarding for us both.
With car projects its important to remember... It doesn't have to have every last HP freed and it doesn't have to be perfect but it should have to get done and perhaps occupy some time or it will end up as scrap.
one mans junk is another mans treasure!
i had 3 running V12 engines and 400 trans complete take outs, after having them around collecting dust , moving to Texas from Daytona FL. ,to much trouble !
so brought to scrape yard , guy weighed them and gave me $75. dollars for the bunch , but i almost cried seeing them going into steel SHERDDING machine and hearing them turned into small bits!
ron
let me add, this was when Jaguar values were at the bottom , talkin g to the guy at scrape place, he said he crushes at least 3- 4 Jaguars a month , and shreds the stuff left over!
i asked what he would charge for a rear subframe complete , he said $50. bucks apiece , he would cut them out for me!
my dont time change things !
I'm still alive, I moved to the country and am retiring in 2 weeks so have not been doing much on my car. It has sat in the shed and hardly used.
The engine is complete and in Melbourne with Norm. Here in Victoria we have had so many lockdowns (confined to home) It's made it difficult to travel to do anything.
I will be selling the engine - I know another failed project, well not quite, someone else will benefit from my toiling.
Too bas shipping to Canada would cost as much as the part otherwise id throw money at this right now
Hi folks, I know it's been a long time. Life has moved on and I have sold my XJS a very sad moment for me, yes there were tears as it left the driveway. The engine is still sitting at Norms workshop. I have just plucked up the courage and advertised it for sale.
Hi folks, I know it's been a long time. Life has moved on and I have sold my XJS a very sad moment for me, yes there were tears as it left the driveway. The engine is still sitting at Norms workshop. I have just plucked up the courage and advertised it for sale.
I’m sorry to join so late. I liked what I read. Did I miss it? Did you mention what year your crankshaft was? If it’s the 93/94 it’s the last forged EN30 steel crank.
What I used to do was offset grind the crank to 2.100 from the stock 2.300 and use 7” Chevy rods. ( you have to narrow both the big end and the bearing to get them to fit. But it’s simple work.
That picks up added stroke and Rather than bore the block and make custom sleeves I just bored the stock sleeves out to 3 & 9/16 having forged pistons made. With 13-1 compression dish in them ( 29cc I think) At the time I was able to get Billet cams out of England. But as wild as they were with all the lift and duration the engine still idled at 600 rpm smooth and even. ( thank you V12 )
I wish I still had that car.
i just turned 90yrs, so im not interested much about engines or cars in general!!!!
BUT i love reading about the advancments in engineering, who would ever believe a 4 cylinder would make close to 1000HP!
The Offy Engines I worked on were the old 270 cu in ones.
By the time The 158 cu in turbocharged ones came around I was busy in Vietnam. So I never got to work on those.
But reading about it in the book OFFENHAUSER by Gordon Elliot White I completely understood what they were doing.
My experiance with those long stroke (4”) OFFIES helped me put together a reliable early XK (3.8) engine. (4.17 stroke)
But Yeh!!! 1200 hp in qualifying and 1000 hp for practice and the race. That’s impressive!
I believe the magic was the alcohol they ran. The cooling charge of alcohol kept the engine out of the detonation zone even without intrrcooling.
i prefer head gaskets as thin as possible , reason thick gaskets when hot,the gasket can start to pulsate back and forth between cylinder bores,from combustion pressure, if slightest detonation heat/pressure takes place, it can weaken gasket and may start to leak,and then blows thru.
and two gaskets is only going to aggrivate the potential!
little known fact ,when USA GM V8s were new 1949/1955, they had a thin steel sheet metal gasket(.020 thou.), problem was mass production machine work did not keep the block and head surfaces flat(requierd).
so they went to steel or copper outer layer with fibre core, worked well for many yrs, what i understand today, MLS/Cometic types work well with closed deck blocks and heads,(with near perfect flat surfaces).
Jag V12 has an open deck and floating type liners, not best for MLS gaskets.
pulsing and flexing between bores weakens seal area!
last time i looked at Cometic catalog, there V12 gaskets were not MLS but made like factory with soft core and metal surfaces. donno now!
the good head to block seal would be NO gasket just GAS filled rings around the top of liner, and a custom gasket to seal the outer edge of block,READ expensive mod!
in lew of that, some good engines use No gasket on closed decks with just rubber/nitril O-rings to seal coolant passages, and a SS ring around the cyl. bore.
if some one has unlimited money, weld a 1/2" aluminum plate to the top of aluminum block, and convert to a closed deck, and go from there! many good mods for that type, like shouldered ridge liners, and O-ring lower bore edges!
anything very good cost money, so back to square one!
Warrjon, your decsion for head chamber mods look good, and the only way to know is build it, according to your personal logic!
only time will tell, and it is no doubt it will run and surprise many here!
and you are not constricted to factory emissions for your personal vehicles.
The Honda K engine is also an open deck and they turbo those little 4 cylinder engines to well over 1000 horsepower.
If you really look at the Jaguar. Block, the connection between the heads and block with all those studs (54) going way down to near the crankshaft plus the overlap of the sleeve to the block, I doubt the gaskets will ever be an issue worry about.
If you are still concerned though it would be very simple to put a plate on the deck. Just put the coolant holes where the gasket needs them.
I take junkyard motors and turbo them to 17 PSI
unopened without an issue. I do t even need to open the ring gap up because normal wear opens it enough to not bother. ( new rings? Yeh you’d need to open them up to .030 more, if you’re going up to 30-40 PSI.)
I’m sorry to join so late. I liked what I read. Did I miss it? Did you mention what year your crankshaft was? If it’s the 93/94 it’s the last forged EN30 steel crank.
What I used to do was offset grind the crank to 2.100 from the stock 2.300 and use 7” Chevy rods. ( you have to narrow both the big end and the bearing to get them to fit. But it’s simple work.
The engine is a 1993 6.0L so yes it has forged crank. Rods are stock Jag but have had the small end modified for Chev pins and lightened by about 100g each. Norm used these rods in his 800HP NA hydroplane V12. Pistons KB Chev 305 HPC.
Rod on the left is out of the 800HP hydroplane V12 Rod on the right is one of mine prior to lightened and balanced. Pic of the highly modified 6.0L heads.
I’ve been thinking big dong exactly that to my rods. But every time I do, I calculate the time it would take and instead order a set of 7” Chevy small block rods. Then offset grind the crank down to 2.100 ( about $300 on sale) ( Chevy journal size). That added stroke is cheaper than Chevy piston and custom sleeves.
Plus the stroke adds more power than an increase in bore does.
xjsv12,, almost impossible to see cam changes by eyeball, unless there is radical change!
i do know that driving the pre-HE they would easily run past 6000'6500 rpm, still pulling !
and some of the HE cars start to run out of steam at 5500 rpm. same displacment 5.3L.
never had much time with a 6.0L but most likely they fall off above 4500rpm.
you guys think your V12 is a race engine , but it is NOT.
there primary purpose is smooth quiet driving ,with reasonable MPG.
nobody needs 12 cylinders or rpm's above 2500rpm , most people drive less rpm than that 99% of the time .
and i like torque more often than big HP, respectable HP occurs above 100MPH ++, torque you need from a stop or passing anywhere from 40mph till like 80/90mph , MOST time things are over by then.
Well Said! However much of why the HE tends to run out of breath at 5500 has to do with the turbo 400 transmission. Stock the first gear shift point is set at that rpm by the Transmission. The earlier Borg Warner will allow you to hold it into gear at higher RPM.
Yes the early pre HE breathes far better than the emissions choked HE. I’d be interested in seeing how much the STOCK HE ECU tune changes breathing characteristics. I know the lift and duration is the same on both cams.Pre HE and HE.
However, I’m an exception to that. Most racing occurs around the highest RPM the engine is capable of. The short 2&3/4 inch stroke limits piston speed dramatically thus if the camshaft will allow high RPM breathing, it is safe to take the V12 over 7500RPM even with the stock cast pistons.
I can’t remember a case of where it was simple drag racing from a corner. Typically it’s squeeze along side and passing occurs under hard braking.
Oh, if I massively have more power to weight than my competitors do. Then I’ll pass on the straight. But that’s not really racing. That’s just driving. Using the car to its potential.
Once a cars handling is sorted out, tire grip determines cornering ability. Most classes limit tire width based on original specifications.
Brakes are much, much, much more powerful than the engine. Thus under braking, drivers skill determines who is going to be the winner ( at least in that particular corner)
02-17-2021, 06:59 PM
a very sad moment for me, yes there were tears as it left the driveway. The engine is still sitting at Norms workshop. I have just plucked up the courage and advertised it for sale.
