OK totally out of the box here!!

what would happen to air flow numbers if engine was turbo or supercharged?

so on inlet stroke air was pressurised and pushed instead of being sucked in cylinder, could easily push 50/100% more air in!!!

yes i know silly , seems so much simpler to do tho.

of course a good factory type rebuild for the engine, and my experiance shows stock cams work very well until you go past factory RPM designs. lotsa torque down low rpm.

HE engines would require a computer controlled water/alchol port injection system, to ward off detonation, i have used it many times and it saved a lot of engines from selfdestruction.

i think easily make 50 to 100% over stock power numbers!

along with a good adjustable ECU (M/S etc).

 

Can not go forced induction, the rules where I live make FI very difficult on engine capacities above 3.0L. I have to get the vehicle engineered and the cost is prohibitive. I can only increase HP 20% above factory without engineering it.

Example my brother has a 1967 Shelby GT500 that had 620RWHP naturally aspirated on the dyno. The engineer made him dyno it and would not allow it to be registered, he had to drop HP to 500RWHP and provide dyno results.

 

EGADS Batman; thats down right awful,terrible , bad , and plainly not fair!!!

the old GR. grandfathers left Bloody England and brought the very Bull Sh. they left behind, along with them!

 

Hopefully, I will find out how much power can come from a V12 that is supercharged. Kinda stalled right now, but project has been moving along pretty good. A 3.3L Whipple twin screw on a 6.0L V12. Have cut the combustion chambers, along with copper head gaskets, to get compression down to 8.0:1.

 

Ray Hall Turbocharging - Main Page

here you go...
that will give you all sorts of scenarios and even help you choose the right turbo(s)...

 

where I am it is not the government that would do that ...
it would be the Insurance company... and they would/will simply


1) refuse to Insure it... (then you can not register it)
2) offer a "Special Insurance" at an increased rate... depending on the Miles you drive and what your Intended use is...
Luckily I have not had one ask me with in the last 15 to twenty years if I am going to Race the car or have I done anything to increase the performance...
the answers now would be NO... (sad huh?)


oh WarJon I wanted to ask you about the source of your Pistons and liners...

 

I plan to set the std camshafts, because I shell not pass MOT with performance shafts.
Runners and ports is 37mm, because only after the 37mm ball cutter turned round full-length.

 

Pistons are Keith Black KB143, liners are available from Westwood liners or Rob Beere in the UK

 

thank you so much!
V12 6.0 Litre
this brings a 5.3 to 6 liters...
with machining the block to accept them... :-)

These Keith Black KB143.060 ? ok have to buy 2 sets of 8 @ $300 (not bad)
now to price the liners and machine work....
that would bring me to 301hp EASILY.... AND 341 FT.LBS 3000rpm
have to weight that against a 6.0 swap...

 

.

jon if you can,deffinitly use a factory 6.0L a much Ford improved engine vs a 5.3L

6.0 has the long stroke that gives automaticly more torque, warron has the 6.0L already along with a big bore kit, gives him 6.7/6.8 Litres.

so he should have plenty of low end torque, great for takeoff and quick passing speeds, usually by the time someone else starts to catchup its to late and coming into traffic or the road ends.

i believe you will find the cheapest cost will be the pistons, good rings will cost that much, then the fun starts!

and doing all the math will not make you the fastest guy around town!

but deffinitly go ahead and do it, think of all the fun you will have!

 

I used the KB143 so I could deshroud the valves, I will still need to take a couple of cc out of the pistons to get CR down to 11.1 but this keeps a good quench area.

You will need to check compression height for the 70mm stroke. My crank is 78.5mm so 0.040" needs to be machined from the pistons to keep the piston crown at deck height.

 

thanks WarJon I am still learning... and your thread here is of Great value and help to my future efforts...
had to do that with my 060 over hepolite pistons on my Austin 1275 I had cosworth rods... (they are a little longer that stock for better moment of torque) (engineering school taught my why/how later)
and proper mathematical modeling on a computer made 500 HP possible from a turbo ford focus... https://www.google.com/#q=500+hp+ford+focus+build
so I will stand by my math...
I was given a hot Sprite in 78 ( what a high school graduation present) and rebuilt it in 90

now I just want the beautiful sound of the v12
air cond, a radio that I can hear over the engine... (unlike the sprite)
SMILES / MILE

 

.

Jon i have built many turbo/and supercharged engines starting in 1962 with a roots blower, went very fast and scared the crap out of, of course i never stopped racing, till money ran out!

any way i have my own ways of doing turbo stuff, and picking the best unit for a project!

Halls stuff is store bought and expensive, and all i would be doing is following the crowd!

thanks anyway.

 

I have had about 6 turbo cars and the Ray Hall site is good for the calculators to determine compressor and turbine sizing. Then go and pick a turbo with a compressor map about the same.

 

Boy porting heads is a time consuming business.

Anyway I cleaned up the bowls and blended the bowl into the seat. Should be massive improvement on the way Jaguar left them.

 

my heads dont have those small holes in the exhaust port.

1978 pre-HE flat chamber, i guess they didnt have exhaust gas recirculation yet!

question; what is the valve length between ex. and inlet for 6.0 HE?

thanks ron

 

Not recirculation... It is extra air which is blown into the exhaust to warm the oxygen sensors up quicker. Should only work - as far as I am aware - when cold. Once warm it should be off.

 

i know on some USA V8 engines the holes have upset flow , so they plug them!

if alloy head they weld closed, and shape it into port wall.

on cast iron head have seen them thread tap the holes, and grind/blend into port wall.

good for hi-performance engines that dont have Draconian laws!

 

The holes in the exhaust port are for the smog pump.

I will be plugging them

 

Just pulled another big engine apart with split caps, expensive and a pain in the butt, especially when I told the guy about this problem a couple of years back. He just worked on the premis that he hadn't heard of the problem before and that others hadn't had the problem. Well now he has heard and has gone and lost his caps so a total rebuild + steel caps and a line bore.
So as its Christmas I thought I would post pics of how to mod your std caps to avoid this problem. They WILL still fracture if you have a big engine and use the power but it will get most folk away from the edge So Merry Christmas all.