These kits have been sold for at least 20 years, so I would have expected the bugs to have been worked out long ago. A shame more photos are not in the instructions, that can often clarify much better than words can ever do.

 

Thanks for your thoroughness!
How is acceleration and MPG.
It is something I may do.

I am also looking into a TK0 500 Standard 5-speed 3.27 1st gear and a .68 5th gear
Supposedly this really wakes up this car.
Any experience would be helpful.

Good Job.
Thanks
Chris

 

Huh. I remember John from back in the early 90's when I had an XJS, as he had a V8 conversion kit, but was also a good source for Jaguar parts and knowledge. This was, natch, pre-Internet, so we had to do things via newsletters, phone calls and letters. You know, in envelopes.

How things have changed. Anyway, glad to see that John is still around!

I've recently been doing some work on a non-Jaguar thing, much simpler than this project @Xjeffs is working on, and often instructions are thin, non-existent or just plain wrong.

Many years ago I took a class in technical writing, or something like that, and we had to (as a project) write assembly instructions. It's pretty darn difficult, if you think about it, to write up really good instructions.

 

I think it is more time consuming to write the instructions and certainly has to be one of your skills, but it's critical when you sell do it yourself kits. If you're not good at it, get someone who is.
His instructions are very in depth, though, just are not easy to process because a lack of some illustrations, missing critical elements or are wrong in some cases. He's certainly put some effort at some point in them just probably not in a decade or 2. To his credit, he is pretty accessible to answer questions to clear things up.

 

Still wondering how you like the way it drives?

Its a kit but there are some expectations.
Critical writing is, well critical.
John is not a doctor he is a conversion guy.
Just the payment method and instructions seam to be some sort of initiation.
Congrats you have passed the test.
Was it worth it?

 

Sorry I haven't answered your question yet, I have had some non- conversion things to clean up since it hasn't been driven in 12 years. I'm hoping for a first drive this weekend.

 

Just a picture on how the TV cable attaches to the throttle. No illustrations in the instructions, but enough description to install it but not adjust it. One throttle tower stud is replaced with a bolt. I had to adjust the throttle cable as the TV cable was rubbing on it.

According to adjusting videos, that looks like too much extra length sticking past the connection point at idle. I'm a little unsure of driving it as this is the source of burning up new transmissions.

 

This was frustrating as there wasn't enough detail. I sent John an email and he responded with pictures very quickly.

Two pan bolts are replaced with longer bolts and spacers to mount the shift bracket.


Somehow I can get to D and all 3 gears, when the warning is that you'd have to modify your center console to get to 1st gear. The 700R4 1st gear lines up with the "1" on my console, which is great. The "D" lines up with Drive on the trans. Where 2nd and 3rd gear are actually is right around the "2" on the console. I should be able to remark the console with the right gear number.

 

He has made the kit in this area easier but hasn't updated his instructions. His instuctions tell you to cut your dipstick and remove a section, but he did a great thing and sends you a stock XjS tube that he rebent to work with the original upper section. It works great except the you can't use the bolt in the old location to secure both upper a lower dipsticks. I just zip tied it to the lifting eye.

The problem is if you follow the instructions you would have already cut the dipstick not knowing you don't need to any more. Be warned, don't cut it.


Also wanted to add this picture that no matter what you do, it should extend this much through the bottom of the tube. I have the original dipstick and tube that came with the trans and it extends the same amount through the end of the tube.
See below at the new XJS bent tube and the original one.

 

The cat is on the road. His instructions to start, fill and test the trans are very good and confidence inspiring. It went well and all gears work. I took it for a test drive and went easy on it as he suggests and i'll do that for a few miles before really putting it to the test. One thing i noticed in my drive was that it never shifted into OD. From my research, apparently it only does that closer to highway speeds and i don't think I crossed 40mph in my short test drive. So far so good.


As I have been prepping the engine to restart, I ran into a huge stumble with a quick tip in to the throttle. I then discovered that the wiring to the enrichment switches is charred so i don't think I'm getting enrichment. I'll redo this wiring and take it out again shortly. Again, shoddy work by Jaguar of Troy Michigan (in 1997).

 

jeff dont know if this helps?
pix of my TV cable and it has a lot of tension on it, i adjust it by sliding the plastic ratchet piece!
works great, but i do have a B&M shift kit in trans, i can drive just in D drive, or for my engine rpms i can hold it in any gear, 1st,2nd,3rd, or 4th overdrive!
now in 1st trans will shift around 5500/6000K itself to 2nd anyway, if i let off as car slows it will shift back into 1st, like a manual trans!
all other gears will hold till you shift lever!

 

Thanks Ron, I think this confirms I shouldn't have that much slack. As does this video...

adjust

 

jeff, another change i did on XJS, was the disconnect the transmission cooler from the radiator, use a remote front mount cooler!

frt. trans cooler direct from trans to cooler, that way less heat from engine into radiator!

 

hey Ron, is this a universal cable? The setup he sold me uses a pin to a stock GM TV cable. I'd rather get a cable with a barrel like yours that will slip right into the throttle tower disk.

I noticed your external cooler. After all the mods to the lines that I did, it would have been simpler to do it your way. Any reason why you didn't put it behind the grate?

 

i put cooler at front wanted to be sure of more air flow, altho turns out fluid temps never have been high!
could easily be behind grill, but is what it is!
the small button at cable end you could use a small screw lock type, it would be adjustable for length, it did take some time to get the best shift speeds dialed in, and i dont use a vacuum switch for the con. lockup, goes into 4th OD around 30mph light throttle!
if i go to supersport mode, i just use shift lever to hold gears from shift till i push the lever forward!
ron

 

My experience with mine so far is that overdrive isn't going to engage until right at 58-60 mph. It's pretty good about staying in that gear even when going up an incline and decreasing speed to around 55-56 mph, but it will shift out below that or on heavy throttle.

In my car, the 3rd-to-4th/OD shift is both butter-smooth and tight, really about as perfect a shift as a non-electronic transmission can muster. I'm a little less enthusiastic about the 1st-to-2nd shift but we built my transmission with some "extra goodies" -- don't know I'd call it a traditional "shift kit" per se -- to make the shifts more abrupt.

I drove her again tonight and continue to be glad I did this upgrade and used this kit. By the way, I don't know the reason for it (cut dipstick, etc.) but my shop installed a completely aftermarket, semi-flex dipstick that now mounts on the passenger's inner fenderwell. Pretty sure its a generic performance part used on hot rods and such, given the background of my shop, but it works.

I can't stress enough how much better this car is with a 700R4 than a GM400. Unless you're going to drop a manual in, this is the only way to go.

Jess

 

Thanks Jess. What does your TV cable look like at idle? is there much slack as in mine pictured above? Can post a picture?

I thought about mounting my dipstick tube to the sheet metal by the fender but I know the engine moves independent of the fender. Under heavy torque the engine moves and could stress where the tube enters the trans.

 

I feel bad that I've been blaming Jaguar of Troy when I think it was a European Repair shop in the area. It was Auto European in Birmingham, Mi. I took it to them because of some screw ups by the dealership.

I also just found that they set the distributer 12 degrees too retarded. I had to loosen the base to get it in range enough to get it right. Runs great now, no hesitation or stumble.

 

Hi Ron
If I did a conversion to a 700R4 what B&M shift kit would I use?
I like the shifter that you have it looks great. Who makes that?
My diff is a 2.88 but it still would be better than what I have now.
Did you use a beefed up torque converter for 6000rpm shifts?
Have you ever considered a 5 or 6 speed manual?
Chris

 

Chris, i bought ht B&M shiftkit 26yrs ago, it came with the lever, no way i remember what cost was, probaly more tho!
the aluminum handle i made myself on a Lathe, 20 min. all done! ally 1" rod from home depot.
i have a rear gear ratio of 3.73-1, Positraction DANA 44! single piece Aluminum driveshaft,lite weight!
ist gear is very low, but is wicked on launch, i shift to second a little over peak torque, around 4500/5000, unless i'm really serious.6000 rpm! by then its a win or lose!
my torque convertor is a light weight 10" diameter, no lockup! quick rev up!
about manual trans, thats what i grew up with, but today i like a GOOD automatic trans.
i recently rented a 2020 Chev Malibu Premier, 4 cylinder turbocharged , with the new GM/Ford 10speed auto, and i was astounded how fast it was!
and it was like magic always in the right gear, thinking when/if i sell the Jag, just maybe right for me!


small diameter lite weight convertor

alloy driveshft lite weight

B&M lever , home made handle!
ron