700R4 Quarterbreed conversion by John's Cars
#101
Hi Jeff
Just checking in to see how your getting along with the 700R4.
I removed the TH400 and was grateful for the pics you took. I did this by myself so its doable.
I bought a low mileage (38,000) 1995 4-liter XJS Rear End for $1,250 from welsh enterprises to get the 3.54 diff and outboard brakes.
I took the old IRS out and installed the New used IRS. It was easier than removing the transmission. A bit tricky but doable.
I am going with the DM T600 close ratio 5-speed kit $6400 with first gear of 2.87 and a .82 5th.
Bywater at AJ-6 engineering has my ECU in England for the SE-ECU, and TT extractors stainless steel pipes for about $1600
Total for everything is about $9200 with shipping and exchange rates. (5 Speed conversion $9200) - (700R4 $2500) $6700
No labor included.
Its not cheap so I hope I can get it together properly. In case your interested AJ6 has a lead time of 8 to 10 weeks or 4 weeks for ECU upgrades.
The DM has a lead time of about 4 to 6 weeks. I will give my impressions and results when it up and running.
Currently removing shifter, ski slope, wiring harness, shift cable, pedal box, preparing for the Tremec .
Enjoy the Holidays
Chris
Just checking in to see how your getting along with the 700R4.
I removed the TH400 and was grateful for the pics you took. I did this by myself so its doable.
I bought a low mileage (38,000) 1995 4-liter XJS Rear End for $1,250 from welsh enterprises to get the 3.54 diff and outboard brakes.
I took the old IRS out and installed the New used IRS. It was easier than removing the transmission. A bit tricky but doable.
I am going with the DM T600 close ratio 5-speed kit $6400 with first gear of 2.87 and a .82 5th.
Bywater at AJ-6 engineering has my ECU in England for the SE-ECU, and TT extractors stainless steel pipes for about $1600
Total for everything is about $9200 with shipping and exchange rates. (5 Speed conversion $9200) - (700R4 $2500) $6700
No labor included.
Its not cheap so I hope I can get it together properly. In case your interested AJ6 has a lead time of 8 to 10 weeks or 4 weeks for ECU upgrades.
The DM has a lead time of about 4 to 6 weeks. I will give my impressions and results when it up and running.
Currently removing shifter, ski slope, wiring harness, shift cable, pedal box, preparing for the Tremec .
Enjoy the Holidays
Chris
I Hope you can document your work in a thread for other's benefit also. It would be a great read.
Jeff
#102
Fuel system cleaned
Wow, one year anniversary since I started this thread.
So I have spent most of the spring and early summer pulling the fuel tanks and injectors and cleaning everything. I had 3-4 injectors not firing and filters continually plugging.
I pulled the rail and created a 9v injector test harness and made a way to back and forward flush carb cleaner through all the injectors and called it good It worked well and the engine runs smoothly now.
Injector test harness.
I tried muratic acid to flush the tank and it did pretty well but flash rusted after I rinsed it. I switched to a toilet cleaner with hydrochloric acid and it actually got it even cleaner and after rinsing poured marvel mystery oil in both tanks to prevent the flag rust and it worked pretty well.
Everything is back together and running well. It doesn't burn the tires, but pulls pretty well off the line but REALLY takes off over 2500rpm.
The alternator light is on right now and the voltage drops below 13 on the dash so not sure if the battery is giving up or if I disconnected something on the trunk or what.
So I have spent most of the spring and early summer pulling the fuel tanks and injectors and cleaning everything. I had 3-4 injectors not firing and filters continually plugging.
I pulled the rail and created a 9v injector test harness and made a way to back and forward flush carb cleaner through all the injectors and called it good It worked well and the engine runs smoothly now.
Injector test harness.
I tried muratic acid to flush the tank and it did pretty well but flash rusted after I rinsed it. I switched to a toilet cleaner with hydrochloric acid and it actually got it even cleaner and after rinsing poured marvel mystery oil in both tanks to prevent the flag rust and it worked pretty well.
Everything is back together and running well. It doesn't burn the tires, but pulls pretty well off the line but REALLY takes off over 2500rpm.
The alternator light is on right now and the voltage drops below 13 on the dash so not sure if the battery is giving up or if I disconnected something on the trunk or what.
Last edited by Xjeffs; 07-06-2021 at 03:12 PM.
#103
700R4 conversion and 5 speed conversion.
Hey Jeff
Glad you got your 700R4 going and the fuel system. I made an injector tester a few years ago when I changed my screens hoses and pintles.
My DM Kit cost a lot more then the 700R4
not to mention the rear end swap for (3.54 diff and out board brakes)
The Bywater ECU mods, and the SS TT extractor exhaust system.
I did all the labor and took my time.
The kit in November and finished in Feb.
I wouldn't say it was easy, but I learned quite a bit.
Was it worth it ? Absolutely!!! Its quick, fast and Fun, Shifts great and has amazing exhaust note.
Its the same car as mine. Hear it on youtube
V12 gents Manual Hill Climb
Cheers
Chris
Glad you got your 700R4 going and the fuel system. I made an injector tester a few years ago when I changed my screens hoses and pintles.
My DM Kit cost a lot more then the 700R4
not to mention the rear end swap for (3.54 diff and out board brakes)
The Bywater ECU mods, and the SS TT extractor exhaust system.
I did all the labor and took my time.
The kit in November and finished in Feb.
I wouldn't say it was easy, but I learned quite a bit.
Was it worth it ? Absolutely!!! Its quick, fast and Fun, Shifts great and has amazing exhaust note.
Its the same car as mine. Hear it on youtube
V12 gents Manual Hill Climb
Cheers
Chris
#104
Hey Jeff
Glad you got your 700R4 going and the fuel system. I made an injector tester a few years ago when I changed my screens hoses and pintles.
My DM Kit cost a lot more then the 700R4
not to mention the rear end swap for (3.54 diff and out board brakes)
The Bywater ECU mods, and the SS TT extractor exhaust system.
I did all the labor and took my time.
The kit in November and finished in Feb.
I wouldn't say it was easy, but I learned quite a bit.
Was it worth it ? Absolutely!!! Its quick, fast and Fun, Shifts great and has amazing exhaust note.
Its the same car as mine. Hear it on youtube
V12 gents Manual Hill Climb
Cheers
Chris
Glad you got your 700R4 going and the fuel system. I made an injector tester a few years ago when I changed my screens hoses and pintles.
My DM Kit cost a lot more then the 700R4
not to mention the rear end swap for (3.54 diff and out board brakes)
The Bywater ECU mods, and the SS TT extractor exhaust system.
I did all the labor and took my time.
The kit in November and finished in Feb.
I wouldn't say it was easy, but I learned quite a bit.
Was it worth it ? Absolutely!!! Its quick, fast and Fun, Shifts great and has amazing exhaust note.
Its the same car as mine. Hear it on youtube
V12 gents Manual Hill Climb
Cheers
Chris
what did you mean by this? What is the same car? How do I hear it?
#106
Hey Jeff
How's it going?
I don't think the exhaust note is for everyone.
For me the sound adds to the driving experience and competes the drive.
I love it but I may put exhaust cut outs in to have the option silent (OEM) mode.
I did this on my Supercharged XF and with a press of a button I can have my noise.
Cheers
Chris
How's it going?
I don't think the exhaust note is for everyone.
For me the sound adds to the driving experience and competes the drive.
I love it but I may put exhaust cut outs in to have the option silent (OEM) mode.
I did this on my Supercharged XF and with a press of a button I can have my noise.
Cheers
Chris
#107
Doing well
The car is actually doing really well. It drives great. Good pull of the line, a little tire chirp and pulls very hard to each shift. The 700R4 is a great mod, as is tuning your performance to stock and cleaning your fuel system.
just have to figure out a few annoyances like the alternator, two tires leaking at plugs and the cooling system. It's finally a great car to drive even with all that.
just have to figure out a few annoyances like the alternator, two tires leaking at plugs and the cooling system. It's finally a great car to drive even with all that.
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (07-12-2021)
#108
I am glad you are doing well.
That's weird that the plugs are leaking. I would do the tires first, but the cooling system would be the next thing.
Especially if you run it hard 6000rpm shifts. The biggest engine killer is overheating. I put dual electric fans in when I did the water pump
7 years ago. My fans run post shutdown and I have a habit of lifting the hood to remove the heat.
I have and 255/40/18 rears and still get rubber. There is always something to do on these cars. I may swap my old tires to see how they feel.
I use a GM alt where the air pump was and so far so good.
Happy motoring
That's weird that the plugs are leaking. I would do the tires first, but the cooling system would be the next thing.
Especially if you run it hard 6000rpm shifts. The biggest engine killer is overheating. I put dual electric fans in when I did the water pump
7 years ago. My fans run post shutdown and I have a habit of lifting the hood to remove the heat.
I have and 255/40/18 rears and still get rubber. There is always something to do on these cars. I may swap my old tires to see how they feel.
I use a GM alt where the air pump was and so far so good.
Happy motoring
#109
I am glad you are doing well.
That's weird that the plugs are leaking. I would do the tires first, but the cooling system would be the next thing.
Especially if you run it hard 6000rpm shifts. The biggest engine killer is overheating. I put dual electric fans in when I did the water pump
7 years ago. My fans run post shutdown and I have a habit of lifting the hood to remove the heat.
I have and 255/40/18 rears and still get rubber. There is always something to do on these cars. I may swap my old tires to see how they feel.
I use a GM alt where the air pump was and so far so good.
Happy motoring
That's weird that the plugs are leaking. I would do the tires first, but the cooling system would be the next thing.
Especially if you run it hard 6000rpm shifts. The biggest engine killer is overheating. I put dual electric fans in when I did the water pump
7 years ago. My fans run post shutdown and I have a habit of lifting the hood to remove the heat.
I have and 255/40/18 rears and still get rubber. There is always something to do on these cars. I may swap my old tires to see how they feel.
I use a GM alt where the air pump was and so far so good.
Happy motoring
My cooling issue is that it doesn't come up to temp.
The tire plugs are about 15 years old and have been just sitting. I may try fix a flat to see if it plugs it.
#110
#111
#112
#113
Update, this cable is not easy to find. All the leads suggested above were dead ends. I ended up calling the local dealer and asked them to find a cable at a dealer so I could call and see if they would send it to me. They found three dealers around Iowa that had a cable, 2 in Omaha and 1 in Chicago. Two of the dealers said they won't take a credit card because they've gotten burned, but Woodhouse Chevy Buick sold one to me for $75.
It arrived today so I'm back on track.
I notified John that this will be an issue but haven't heard back. His instructions advise against a universal cable. Something to think about if your considering this swap.
It arrived today so I'm back on track.
I notified John that this will be an issue but haven't heard back. His instructions advise against a universal cable. Something to think about if your considering this swap.
I know John pushes for the OEM cable but with that no longer being an option, I think the Lokar KD-2700HT is probably the next best option.
#114
I know this is an older (but still extremely valuable) thread, but as of September 2021 it looks like the OEM 25515598 cable is no longer available. My local dealer says it's NLA and can't find any that have one, and the places online either have an aftermarket listed a the OEM, or can't confirm that they have it in stock.
I know John pushes for the OEM cable but with that no longer being an option, I think the Lokar KD-2700HT is probably the next best option.
I know John pushes for the OEM cable but with that no longer being an option, I think the Lokar KD-2700HT is probably the next best option.
#116
This is the one I bought. It came yesterday - I took a quick look and I think it should work fine.
#117
The following 2 users liked this post by Thorsen:
Greg in France (09-23-2021),
Xjeffs (09-23-2021)
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