XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

76 XJS Rear Drum brakes?

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Old 08-09-2016, 12:32 PM
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Default 76 XJS Rear Drum brakes?

Passenger side is dragging as if it is not fully released ... looking for info on how to change the brakes along with any pictures ... searched the forum and Google to no avail. I've attached a pic of what I have ...

76 XJS Rear Drum brakes?-jag-brakes.jpg

Thanks

-Mike-
 
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Old 08-09-2016, 12:57 PM
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That is the hub. The brakes are around the diff... better to say the XJ-S has inboard brake discs. The XJS has outboard. Yours is an earlier pre-facelift (1992) so you have inboard brake discs resulting in a lot of work to replace them...
 
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:54 PM
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Of Course I have the ones that require a lot of effort ..

Is there a manual you would suggest so I can see whats involved?

Thanks again

-Mike
 
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Chambr
Of Course I have the ones that require a lot of effort ..

Is there a manual you would suggest so I can see whats involved?

Thanks again

-Mike
Mike, it is probably safe to assume you have not researched just how the handbrake mechanism works. It may be as simple as the handbrake still being set. The handle needs to be lifted to it's full extent until resistance is felt then bottom pressed and held while the handle is lowered to it's full extent.
 
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Old 08-09-2016, 04:21 PM
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Good call out Baxter .. that was the first thing I had checked.

This car is a 1976 XJ-S Pre HE v12 that we bought up in Georgia.

The car had been sitting around for quite a number of years on the dirt under a house (fuel in the tank was gunk (had it boiled out) ,, tires were dry rotted as were the headrests ..

This car was made into a convertible in 1990 by Coach Builders Limited in High Springs Fl ... but thats a story for another time/thread

Thinking the brakes need some work in the rear since it feels like its dragging a bit when moving the car ..

Foreign cars are a big change from the American muscle I am used to building ...


Update - Found a PDF online that describes how to change the brakes still looking for a diagram though ..
 

Last edited by Chambr; 08-09-2016 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by baxtor
....... The handle needs to be lifted to it's full extent until resistance is felt then bottom pressed and held while the handle is lowered to it's full extent.
I tried pressing my bottom several times but it had no effect on the brakes.
 
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve M
I tried pressing my bottom several times but it had no effect on the brakes.
Haha
 
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Steve M
I tried pressing my bottom several times but it had no effect on the brakes.
You wouldn't believe some of the conversations l have with my phone regarding auto word select or whatever it is called.😊😊😊
 
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:26 AM
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I dont have any diagrams but i have done a complete rear end rebuild including changing the brake disks, pads and handbrake pads and cleaned the handbrake parts.

I include some pics that might help you see better as with the subframe in the car it is hard to both see and reach.

Eight bolts hold the subframe in and you will have to disconnect the brake line and prop shaft as well as the handbrake cable and exhaust back boxes to drop it down but i think it will make things much better for you with the Subframe out the car, you can see at the top of the brake setup the levers that operate the handbrake

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Dont just think its the handbrake that could be causing the bind, The pistons inside the foot operated brake caliper were also shot and causing drag

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These pics below i have added just for the sake of it but they show how bad things can get when the car is parked up for a few years



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Last edited by newbound7; 08-10-2016 at 05:34 AM. Reason: extra Info
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Old 08-10-2016, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by baxtor
You wouldn't believe some of the conversations l have with my phone regarding auto word select or whatever it is called.😊😊😊
Thats my life! That is why my spelling here is sometimes so bad, 'cos I wrote it mobile. Not only is it a fight with the fake keyboard but also fighting the autospelling. Why? Because it is in German and hardly any English words are accepted and instead are simply changed to German... Like have would turn into habe, which means the same but js German. Or since would turn into Sinn which means mind etc.
 
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:42 AM
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Thanks a bunch Newbound7 ... these pics are great and exactly what I would need to get in there and get this issue resolved ...

Thanks ALL for the quick responses ..

-Mike-
 
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:55 AM
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You can find all the parts lists and exploded diagrams on Jaguar's Heritage Parts website: Braking System - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK
 
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Old 08-10-2016, 12:36 PM
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Awesome Jagboi64 ... this will help me with a few other issues the car has as well ... I searched for a couple of hours last night and could not find anything like this
 
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Old 08-11-2016, 12:12 PM
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Lol you can literally see the rotor in your first pic.

This is a common issue with our vehicles being the age they are. I had to rebuild my rears, as they were leaking about 6 months into my owning my XJS. My dad recent got an '87 XJ6 and all but one of the front pistons lock up and drag the brakes.

In addition to the helpful pics in this thread, I made a "rear brake rebuild" thread a long time ago. I am sure it isn't as well detailed as I would think to make it now, but pics are always helpful. I didn't drop my rear end when I did it btw, just removed the calipers out from under the car.
 
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Old 08-11-2016, 04:20 PM
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LOL ... I see it now - was focused on the outer hub ..

Its a weird setup for sure ...
 
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Chambr
LOL ... I see it now - was focused on the outer hub ..

Its a weird setup for sure ...
Not sure l would call it weird, there has actually been quite a few cars over the years with inboard brakes.
 
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:43 PM
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It provides less sprung weight out at the wheels. The Jaguar rear cage/inboard brake setup has been one of the most popular hot rod adapted rears, similar to the popularity of the mustang II front end in hot rodding.
 
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Old 08-11-2016, 08:57 PM
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I can agree with the sprung weight piece however in doing some quick research there is a cooling issue along with additional complexity when talking inboard vs outboard brakes and I would guess that's why many car manufacturers that were inboard moved to outboard.

I see the inboard brakes on foreign cars especially in the 60's and 70's -- Alpha Romeos, Audis, Lancia, Maserati, Benz and VWs .. not so much today.

My experience has been with American cars from the late 60's through today (with a Nissan 240Z and a BMW 335i in between) and have never come across this type setup (hence the weird comment)

Now here's something weird - my 1914 Model T has a DRUM belt that rides on the transmission squeezing it until you stop .. better plan to stop well in advance (haha)..

Appreciate the conversation here .. I learned some things for sure and will need your advice in the future as well (re-OPUS ignition replacement, injection questions and more) ..

Thanks again in advance
 
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Old 08-11-2016, 10:00 PM
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Before you jump into to doing a full brake job, I'd check the entire parking brake mechanism. Even if the handle if full released, you could still have a binding problem somewhere.
 
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:12 AM
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Absolutely Mac Allan -- the car sat for many years from what I can tell ... I had to have the fuel tank boiled and fuel pump replaced as there was gunk in the tank just to get it started .. That's an indication of how long it sat for before the previous owner passed.
 


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