Mike:

1914 T!!!! That brings back old memories. My first car at 16 circa 46 was a derelict 23 T roadster pickup. Folks OK'd it. Outta be safe, it will never run and it will keep him busy and out of mischief. Naaah, Pal Billy and I messed with it and towed it with his slick 27 Roadster with a truck bed inserted. At last we pulled the head and watched the valves go up and down as one of us hand cranked it. Well, an intake stays up!!!!
Whacked it and it dropped down and behaved. Another tow, and as soon as I pushed the had brake lever forward and it engaged high gear, it fired!!! Pulled the lever bak and therefore in neutral. it kept running.

Many adventures with that T. It morphed into 27 roadster sans fenders.

In 58, I built a speedster from junk. Slick Caterpillar yellow and black. Drove it in a parade a couple of times.

The trick with the brake bands along with low and reverse is to apply all on approaching the stop. Then, when almost stopped, shift to the brake pedal only. Spread the wear. So, when time to change not much more effort to change them all.

The 26/27 engines enjoyed a wider drum and band. Better stopping a nd a tad more life. Same for the late rear axle. Larger hand brake drum and shoes. Most of us just removed them extra drag and did little.

Each of my T's enjoyed the optional Ruxtel two speed rear axle....

And Billy and I figured out a way to swap in an A carburator. They ran so much better....

Carl

 

When my XJ wuzza six started weeping fluid astern and the level in the resevoir needed replenishment, I considered an in situ caliper swap.
After shopping, for parts, Rockauto was chosen. Largely, as i not need to mess with cores. The old ones are still under my bench. Why, mebbe someone can use them. Rebuild and use or as cores. Free to the taker. But, too heavy to make shipping practical.

I ended up farming the job out. $600. Ten years ago, I would've tackled it. Worlds of difference between being in one's 70's to the present late 80's!

OK job, except the hand brakes are "0". I'm not a fan of them any how.
Old habits never go away???

But, some day, I might put the rear on ramps and have a look. I was under the front recently, and the cable seems to be in place. That "weird' adjustment feature???

In my car, dropping the cage is complicated. A PO welded in the aft resonators and tail pipe tips??? Actually, now small glass packs.

The LT1 on a true dual exhaust with an H pipe, twin cats, stock jaguar mufflers and the glass packs purrs just right. Not raspy or noisy, but definitely a V8.

I suspect a V12 would sound nice with a similar set of pipes....

Carl

 

Sounds like good times with that 27 roadster JagCad ...


I've attached a couple of pics of the jag so you can see what I am working with (Not bad at all for sitting around for many years) and one of the Model T ..

 

That is no 76 model. 86 more so... A 76 would have full black bumpers and have a black interior with no wood. Looks more so like a Hess and Eisenhardt conversion. Dual tanks and co. I doubt a previous owner updated the exterior and interior...

 

The car is most definitely a 76 model year ... V12 Pre HE XJ-S -- The vin id's it as 1976 as well ... it does have full black bumpers front and back ... Single gas tank ... I have a lot of documentation that came with the car (like every part he ever bought for the car) ... The car was chopped in 1990 by a company called Coach Builders Limited in High Springs Fl for a cost of $11,557.12 -- the owner redid the interior in red painted, the car blue (was white), the top is Black and he included hand made wood accents for the interior.

Definitely not your regular 76 XJS's for sure ...

 

 

Definitely not the Hess & Eisenhardt convertible.

 

I meant the chrome isn't on the bumpers of a 76... But hey, that was a lot of work to do... Looks kind of familiar I'm so happy to have an original coupé with no weird conversions

Nearly everything which males it a pre HE is missing. The rear section between the lights should be blue. The bumpers should be narrow and chromfree. The interior all black (dash) with only a few brightwork parts. The wiper mould should be chrome^/silver (at least going by what I've seen so far).

 

Mike:


Yes, thanks. We did have a lot of fun with that car. Unlike that '14
beauty of yours, mine was much modified, but the T four banger remained.


In a first incarnation, it got 30 x 3 1/2 wheels with clincher tires. Had a blow out one while driving on an unpaved street. never noticed, til I got on to pavement!!!!


Yours seems to have gas lamps. So, is it so early as to have no starter or battery and rely on he magneto and hand crank???


My 27 rarely, if ever had a starter that worked or a battery that was good enough to do that. Hand crank or push start. On cold mornings, I had a ritual. It included jacking up a rear wheel. cold oil drag mad cranking tough....


The one I built in 58 shed it's flywheel magnets. Mags never worked for us anyway. But, they also serve as paddles to move oil up front. Engines can be lost w/o them. been there.


I used alloy angles to do the oil paddle. Engine lively with he lightened fly wheel. My friend and barber restored a mid twenties
touting car. Very nice. But, my speedster would run off and hide from his...


I have a pair of beat up kerosene cowl lamps. T. I don't know ??


And an engine block trans in tough shape... A head and intake in great shape. And oh yeah, 5 wooden vibrator coils in more than decnt shape... why, nostalgia, no better reason...


Nice pair of cars there, side by side...


Carl

 

Do not try to work on the rear brakes in the car. Not unless you enjoy frustration, anger and skinned knuckles. It takes less than an hour to pull the whole assembly. Or it will probably add 6 hours to get everything working if you try to do it while it’s still in place.