I know someone who has a beautiful XJS that has been in storage for a decade. I was asked to give them a hand getting it roadworth again. I am pretty mechanically inclined but I know this is a long ways from the American vehicles I am used to.
For starters I am planning on changing all the fluids, what peculiarites should I watch out for. Are there any specifics that must be used? Whats the best way to go aboutit on a Jag? I figure i need to start with oil, transmission, radiator, and diff.
Thanks for your help

 

Welcome to the forum tcpoland.
I am sure you will be pointed in the right direction to post your questions about the V12
The first fluid to change would be obvious to you is the petrol and fuel filter.
Best of luck,

 

No exotic fluids required. Dexron in the trans (and power steering) , old fashioned green anti-freeze, pick-your-brand 20/50 motor oil, and pick-your-brand 80/90 diff oil with posi-traction additive or posi-traction ready.

Be ready to address rust in fuel and brake system after 10 years of storage.

After you get it running plan on replacing all underhood fuel system hoses.

The cooling system needs to be properly bled. Post back when ready for details on that.

Cheers
DD

 

Okay can anyone tell me what capacity for each fluid: Transmission, Coolant and Differential?

 

Nevernind my last post. I would really appreciate input and tips on draining and filling both transmission and coolant though. Thanks in advance.

 

Google Kirby Palm's XJS book. It's a free PDF you can download. It's an XJS Bible. Can we see some pics?

 

Absolutely, I will get some pics posted as soon as I can. Also I noticed there is a dent on the u der carriage right next to the front jacking points (looks like someone jacked it there). Is there a way I could get access to it to hammer it back out?

 

Trans:
Not easy to dop the pan.
I used the bucket method for fluid changes on my XJS. Disconnect the cooler pipe that sends fluid to the cooler. Rig up a hose to extend from the disconnected pipe to a long-ish hose. End of hose goes in 5 gallon bucket. Run engine a few seconds to pump out 2-3 quarts of ATF. Add 2-3 fresh ATF. Run engine again, add more fluid, repeat, repeat. The ATF comes out really fast so be careful

This can get a bit messy but it sure beats the hassle of dropping the pan.

Coolant:
Some XJSs do not have a coolant drain. If your doesn't you'll have to drain the system via the lower radiator hose, releasing the hose (*just* enough to drain the coolant but not so much to create a very messy flood.

Bleeding the system is important. More on that later.

Don't forget fuel system and brake system. These are much more likely to have degraded with storage....and thus much more likely to cause you problems.... than trans fuild and coolant

Cheers
DD

 

V12 cooling system bleeding:

There are different opinions on what works for filling and bleeding but most owners follow the same basic procedure. Here's the process I used on my '88 XJS V12 and a few others. It's not difficult, just messy.

Elevate the front of the car about 8" and then elevate the left front another 2-3" beyond that.

Remove the bleeder plug from the left radiator tank. You'll see an access hole in the radiator upper mounting panel. The plug is some arcane size but you'll find something in your toolbox that fits.

Remove the caps from the expansion/header tank and from the filler pipe at the front of the engine....up there by the A/C compressor.

Add coolant/water to via the filler pipe until it reaches the bottom of the pipe. Start engine, set heater control to max heat. Let it run at idle until it warms up. Peek inside the filler pipe every minute or so and top up as needed.

When the engine gets warm increase the idle to about 1000-1200 rpm (a helper is helpful here...or just wedge a little something in the throttle linakge to hold it sligtly open for a high idle.

Let 'er run and run. Give the upper radiator hoses a few squeezes now and again. Keep checking your coolant level in the filler pipe and top off as needed. Eventually you'll see some coolant coming out of the bleeder. That's good. Wait a while longer and (hopefully) you'll see coolant *really* pouring out of the bleeder. (How much? It's one of those "you'll know it when you see it" things..very messy)

When it's *really* pouring out of the bleeder hole, put the plug back in. Wear some gloves so you don't get scalded. If you can't get the plug back in thru all the gushing, shut off the engine and do it....but I like to leave the engine running if I can. Not worth getting burned, though.

Top off the coolant in the filler pipe...I go right to the top but some fill just to the bottom of the neck... add a quart or so to the expansion tank if you suspect it might be low, button everything up, and yer off to the races. If you've overfilled the excess will be pushed into the atmospheric tank mounted inside the fenderwell. If you've *really* overfilled the excess will exit the atmospheric tank and end up on the ground.

Lower the car and clean the driveway :-)

Cheers
DD

 

Oh....forogt....turn the heater on so coolant circulates thru the heater core.


Cheers
DD

 

I'm in the same boat as the author of this post...see my post "Congratulate me or Pray for me".....

...just got my "89" and I have a lot to learn. Now if I can find that "Bible".........?

 

WoW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Perfect , Kirby Palms Book, just what I needed. Easy download!

This site is awsume!

 

This engine is filthy with every form of debris imaginable including a nasty y coat of mouse droppings. Could someone please recomend a simple and effective way of getting it cleaned. Im not talking showroom detail just getting it cleann enough to work on and look for leaks. Thanks again.

 

Please see below link to engine detailing in the detailing section of the forum.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/d...etailing-2624/

There are others I'm sure, but its simple, DON'T use a jet wash / steam cleaner......a spray bottle of APC, some degreaser, elbow grease, various rags, brushes etc and you won't recognise the engine bay afterwards & all will be well.

Good luck

 

The V-12 does not like to be "watered" down. DON'T use a gunk engine foam style cleaner with a hose, you will get water into all sorts of electrical connectors. I'm afraid the best bet is a carefully used shop vac, spray cleaners like simplegreen and lots of elbow grease/rags/brushes. Wish I could say there is an "easy" or "quick" way but there really isn't.

 

Biggest problem with mine that was parked for 13 years was the gas. After you clean the tank do you best to flush the lines as well or getting it started and running right may take a while. It probably has a power steering leak along with other various leaks. So just do a lot of inspecting after getting it going

 

i would flush it with diesel fill it and drain it then do several oil changes after put a few quarts of marvel mystery oil in when you change it the first couple times you run it. change the hoses on the injectors flush the fuel system the coolant an brake fluid check all fuses wires etc. keep a fire extinguisher (big one rated abc) change the o rings on the injectors while your there plugs wont hurt might need too clean the cap and rotor up most of all dont rush it!

 

I second the marvel mystery oil. My dad has used it for ages and I am using it now to clean up a land rover my girlfriend just bought.


I don't agree with not using gunk though. Simple green is great if you are hand cleaning stuff, but 3 or 4 cans of gunk in every nook and cranny followed up by a really good rinse 20 minutes later works wonders. Getting into electrical connections is pretty negligible if you just let it sit for the rest of the day and dry out.
I've washed my xjs engine many times and started it immediately after to burn off the water. Just get a couple of plastic bags from the store and cover up the distributor, intake, master cylinder, and other things you don't want wet. I have never had any problem with this. Doing this first clean will make the harder build up easier to focus on


DO NOT use engine brite or any other engine bay detailer, they are very very thick and cause dirt buildup. If you want some shine use a lighter detailer like mothers or meguier's tire shine and buff off excess.

 

I have already changed the oil and filter and when I start the car the oil pressure gauge comes up but then after the car starts to wark up the oil pressure indication drops to zero when the car is at idle but will come up with increased rpms... Any thoughts on this? Is this normal for this car? Also the fuel quantity gauge reads zero. What are the common faults for this? Thanks guys.

 

When fully warmed up it's normal for a V12 to have low oil pressure at idle. On mine, for instance, the needle would just touch the "0" line on the gauge.

If the o/p comes up when the engine is just off idle you should be fine.

Fuel gauge: sending unit failures are common. But so is flakey gauge operation ue to dirty contacts and poor grounding at the back the instrument cluster.

Cheers
DD