The door locks were completely inoperative when I bought this car and I also noticed an annoying rattle inside each door that would go away if I applied slight pressure to the inside locking lever. I assumed the locking rod had a broken linkage clip as described in Kirby's Book on page 282 (updated Aug 2000 version). I was so sure his would be the problem that I went ahead and purchased some new clips...oh, well, wrong again

Upon removing the passenger's door card, I found the rattle was due to one of the somewhat cubic shaped, white plastic rod guides popping out of the square hole in the sheet metal. It appears it was worked loose due to repeated attempts to get the door locks to engage with the mechanism out of alignment. This puts stress on the rod causing it to flex and eventually loosen the rod guide.

I also found no plastic vapor barrier between the door card and the door. This has allowed moisture to get to the "cardboard" and mold to start growing.

I can see what is preventing the locks from engaging but not how it got to this failure mode. There is a rod that is actuated down when pulling up on the exterior door handle. To allow locking, this rod must be aligned with a "gap" when the lock is engaged but either the "gap" needs to move up or the rod needs to move down for things to align. My manual shows no details on how to adjust the various threaded rod connections. It only tells how to remove and replace the mechanism.

I can make it lock by manually aligning things on the passenger's side but it will only stay locked for a second. Then (and I am guessing here) the circuit senses the driver's door is NOT in the locked position (because that one is misaligned also) and is over-ridden back to the unlocked position.

So here are my questions before I dig in deeper:
1) Anyone have a clever material, method, or best practice for replacing the plastic sheeting the should go between the card and the door panel?

2) Is this a familiar lock failure mode with a well know solution(s) and if so, what are they?

3) Is there a good detailed diagram of the lock/latching mechanism available?

Thank you.

 

Before adjusting anything make sure the latch mechanism and all linkages are clean and lubricated so all the parts can move freely. This alone fixes many inoperative systems. I start off with aerosol brake wash, then WD40, then a good spray lube/grease. The WD40 helps the lube/grease slide into all the little bits (just my method....do what you like).

I'm not quite sure I understand your post....probably becuause it's so long that I can't visualize exactly what you are referring to about "gaps". Anyhow, FWIW, I've adjusted a couple of the lock systems. I never touched the rods but rather adjusted the fore-aft position of the lock actuator.

I'll try to explain but I hope you're better at interpreting than I am at explaining :-)

The actuators (whether solenoid type or motor type) have a pushrod that pulls and pushes the lock linkage. When not powered up the actuator is in neutral (so to speak) the pushrod will (should) be rather firmly in the mid point of its travel.

So.....

Loosen (don't remove) the two actuator mounting bolts. Unlock the doors and return key to the vertical position. Now slide the actuator fore-n-aft. The pushroad will remain in mid position so you'll be pushing the linkage fore-n-aft at the same time. The locks should operate in both directions

The idea here is to go back-n-forth a few times to find the "sweet spot"/mid-spot in the actuator position where eqaul fore-aft movement in either direction will operate the locks. In other words you are centering the neutral actuator position to agree with the center/neutral position of the key.

Now tighten the bolts and do the other door.

Try operating the system.

Hope this helps in some way

Cheers
DD

 

Doug, I understand perfectly and will give it a try. Thank you.

Sorry my explaination was so complicated; hard to describe things when you do not have the correct nomenclature. If I continue to have trouble, I will try and get a picture.

 

What I meant to say was "....probably because it's been so long...." meaning it's been ages since I had a good look inside an XJS door.

Cheers
DD

 

Cleaning and lubrication did the trick.

Something I learn (which should have been obvious) the door cannot be made to lock when it is open. Since I could only work on it with the door opened I was getting frustrated when I couldn't get it to line up in a position that would allow it to lock. Once I figured out it was designed that way, things made more sense.

Thank you for the help...again.