per attached photos, my 30 amp ABS fuse on the passenger side (LHD) blows the fuse about 5 sec after turning on the ignition. I can hear the pump run then it blows. Is there anyway short of cutting all the wires on both ends to check continuity ??? Surely (not Shirley) there is an easier way ?? Or just accept it is a Jag and do it ??

Thanks, Ken in WV

 

Hi Ken

It could be your Pump that's the problem.

You could try unplugging the pump from the ABS that's the plug in your Photo Top Left that goes into that gold socket arrangement and then see if

the fuse still blows, if it doesn't then it could be the pump but if it does then it could be a trapped or pinched wire.

Or it could be a short in the Brake Light Switch.

Not a definitive Test but it could reveal something.

 

There is 2 x 30a which one is it blowing the one to the pump or the other one?

If it is the pump fuse you can test the pump by wiring it directly to a battery (with a fuse) to see if it runs without blowing the fuse, this will either rule out the pump or verify it is faulty.

 

It's the one on the right side. How do I identify if it is the one to the accumulator ?

 

btw, the pump has less than 500 mile since new !!

 

Pull the fuse if the pump does not run when you turn the ignition on then it's the pump fuse.

Even though the pump is new I would still check it to rule it out. Once you have ruled out the pump then it MUST be a problem in the wiring harness.

 

It does not blow so this means a pump or ??

 

ok, back to the garage.....

 

Wait, did not have to go to the garage !!! when fuse is blown, pump does not run. But the other day, it ran for a bit then the fuse blew !!!

 

this is conFUSEing !!

 

where do I look for a short in the brake light !! Still learning !!!

 

Hi Ken

Under the 'Knee Pad' on the Passenger Side is a drop out Panel, which is accessed when you turn a plastic button with a Coin or Screw driver.



Under the Passenger Knee Pad, undoing this Panel with a Coin will reveal a Cluster of Fuses including the Ones for the ABS as well as the Brake Pump.

The ABS and The Brake Pump are Protected by Two 30 Amp Fuses and being so important are positioned side by side all on their own and here they are in the Photo.



The Fuses for the ABS and the Brake Pump
There is no mistaking these two for anything else

If you look on the Back of the Lid you just undid with a Coin or Screw Driver, you will see a simple diagram which very clearly shows you which one is which.


As it is very important that you don't pull the wrong one, for obvious reasons.


If you can't hear the Brake Pump run, then DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR.


The reason that you may have found that the Brake Pump Fuse Keeps Blowing could be down to one of the Following reason.


(1) It could be a 'pinched' wire that is shorting out somewhere, which could be most likely near a cable clamp or bracket.


(2) It could be a problem with the Brake Pump and or the Accumulator Ball.
If you have to push the Brake Pedal Hard in order to Stop the Car, then that could be the reason.




The Brake Pump and Accumulator Ball
Expensive so don't burn it out $200-$400

Or if it is your lucky day, then it could be a Faulty Brake Light Switch.



With the ABS Master Cylinder Actuator Removed you can see the Plastic Brake Light Switch which sometimes go wrong.

It is very delicate so don't Break this Brake Switch.

Also don't take the ABS Master Cylinder Actuator out of the Car if you don't have to because you can access the Brake Switch from inside the Car, so the purpose of this Photo is to show you where to find it.

The ABS Master Cylinder Actuator Removed from the Car

Note the Metal Peg on the side of the Brake Pedal Lever and remember how the Brake Switch connects onto it, for although it looks quite simple (which it is)

If you forget how to put it back, then it will make your head spin!



Test the Switch with you meter to see if it is Faulty or if you have a Short, from Inside the Car.

Its also 'Fairly Easy' to remove or replace.

 

OK... IMO you are definitely looking for a short in the wiring harness. The harness goes under the ABS pump, there is a bracket that it goes under - This bracket should have a plastic edging on it to prevent the wiring rubbing on the metal, this is the area you need to check as well as where the harness goes through the firewall.

Work methodically and start at one end working your way along the wiring harness until you find the problem.