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Keep the current factory springs unless the rear ride height is too low. If it is, fit new springs from the normal suppliers. Just ask for normal springs, not specially hard or sportspack ones. eg: https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.c...69-c2x24297750
Fit Boges and you are good to go.
Keep the current factory springs unless the rear ride height is too low. If it is, fit new springs from the normal suppliers. Just ask for normal springs, not specially hard or sportspack ones. eg: https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.c...69-c2x24297750
Fit Boges and you are good to go.
Damn Greg! What an amaaaaazing price...
I so appreciate your help!
So,,, what do folks think of this set? It's less than $40 bucks shipping for a set of 4 to the US... Is "quality aftermarket" just too risky? I worry about spending the doe,,, then changing the springs and shocks,,, just to end up with the same ride height issue. These finicky cars, lol
Sorry... I know this is an unrelated topic for this thread. But these. What say you?
Got home and took the part off completely (sorry no pic) and although I was able to separate that larger 24mm section off of the valve, the section where is leaking,,, unless I'm missing something or need to eat me spinich,,, does not or is not coming off/separate. The leak is absolutely coming from around seal - which I think is a flat black rubber washer... If it does move,,, I'm guessing it's turned down and bottomed out on the tighten side O things. But,,, I don't believe it comes apart or is threaded...
I don't know what to do. I don't want to buy an alt part or the $250 new... Shoot. Paint in the area is toast from the fluid
The item in questions is a PRV or pressure reducing valve and should be left in place to prevent rear wheel lock up under heavy baking becasue ABS can only do so much. These have a rising rate so under light braking the rear curcuit would recieve about 95% of total system pressure for good feel and balance in everyday driving situations. But as pressure rises the rate of reduction increases. This is helpful under heavy braking. As the car's weight shifts forward the rear wheels will be more likely to lock and the rising rate of pressure reduction helps shift the brake bias forward in concert with the weight.
Last edited by icsamerica; 08-29-2019 at 09:56 PM.
JJJ
Before you lash out on a new one, I would try it without one - just insert a straight connector. I very much doubt it will make any difference at all. If it does, then you have to get one.
I think the Britpart springs will be fine.
Greg
So,,, what do folks think of this set? It's less than $40 bucks shipping for a set of 4 to the US... Is "quality aftermarket" just too risky? I worry about spending the doe,,, then changing the springs and shocks,,, just to end up with the same ride height issue. These finicky cars, lol
Sorry... I know this is an unrelated topic for this thread. But these. What say you?
JJJ
These springs should be fine.
As to the valve, if you cannot fix it, try using a straight connector and see what the brakes feel like. I would not be surprised if you find no difference. If the rears do lock up a bit too frequently, fit some harder pads in the rear, or softer ones in the front. Harder pads heat up more slowly, so grab less fast on application than soft ones do.
JJJ
These springs should be fine.
As to the valve, if you cannot fix it, try using a straight connector and see what the brakes feel like. I would not be surprised if you find no difference. If the rears do lock up a bit too frequently, fit some harder pads in the rear, or softer ones in the front. Harder pads heat up more slowly, so grab less fast on application than soft ones do.
Greg, thank you... I like that suggestion and was considering it as well.
Thankfully I installed a set O fosseway speed bleeders and this isn't killing me in the bleeding procedure. They have paid for themselves 5times already!
When I got the part off,,, simple spin of the fittings on both sides,,, I blew thru it in both directions and, using my mouth (not much pressure) I tried to create a vacuum and positive pressure to see if it would hold or if I noticed a slow decrease in positive or negative pressure. Found neither. Of course I couldn't produce much with my mouth. Also, to my surprise, both with the 24mm larger section off and with it on - I could blow air straight thru in both directions - no resistance... Thru the smaller section, I could see light - straight thru it. BS... Maybe with liquid it would behave differently?
I didn't test it but,,, one side of the of the component is a male thread, the other a female and, I THINK, that if remove the component, I'll be able to thread what's left, one line to the other. Straight shot. But I don't know that yet.
Honestly, I don't think it's going to make a difference either without it. At the same time, I don't want to get in the habit of taking all kinds of short cuts with this ol girl... They accumulate - if you know what I mean? I did find some BMW parts for 60-70 bucks. But between a 30+ yo Porsche,,, a 20yo xk8 and now a 30yo XJS $$$ wise it's death (bankruptcy) by 1000 cuts, lol
The news about the SPRINGS is great news($$$)! Great news. After I wash her up and I'm not embarrassed (first bath in a long long time for her) I will send some snaps of the rear end to show rear leaning sag. I hope these springs will adjust for that. I hope.
Doug, ICS and Greg,,, thank you all so much for your attention!
JJJ
I completely understand about not bodging up things on the car. However, I suspect your valve has in fact been doing nothing at all, anyway. I would try it without and see.
JJJ
I completely understand about not bodging up things on the car. However, I suspect your valve has in fact been doing nothing at all, anyway.
Quite possible. It's pretty common to find these devices inoperative; whatever little pistons, springs, valves, and seals are inside have disintegrated or seized years ago. They're a rather common source of discussion on various old car forums.
So, just a quick question (it's not an easy one). I am finding all kinds of delay and proportioning valves - from "Dorman for instance" and under $30-40... I think it would be a matter of finding right fittings IF I went this way.
What is the delay, or proportion, the stock valve would supply on braking pressure? If it could be a cheap thing,,, I'd rather be with it than without it if it were possible... Repeat,,, IF possible and not a nightmare
So, just a quick question (it's not an easy one). I am finding all kinds of delay and proportioning valves - from "Dorman for instance" and under $30-40... I think it would be a matter of finding right fittings IF I went this way.
What is the delay, or proportion, the stock valve would supply on braking pressure? If it could be a cheap thing,,, I'd rather be with it than without it if it were possible... Repeat,,, IF possible and not a nightmare
JJJ
Give it a try without. I will send you a beer token if you notice any difference at all.
JJJ
Give it a try without. I will send you a beer token if you notice any difference at all.
Haha!!! Ok, I will... I need to stop being so hard headed!!!
Recommend a good pipe tobacco I should try!!! Invite me to France to TEST drive your XJ-S, haha... Lol,,, I don't drink beer (loooong short story),,, I been tell'n ya that 😆🤣😆😅
08-29-2019, 10:00 AM
