91 XJS Aux cooling fan quit, need help with R&R
#1
91 XJS Aux cooling fan quit, need help with R&R
I need help removing and replacing the electric fan motor. It's not in Kirby's book. The metal support rods that go thru the fan shroud appear to have nuts on the inside of the shroud. Can I just loosen these nuts and remove the fan & motor with the support cage as an assembly? What else do I need to remove? Any tips or advice would be appreciated.
I searched this forum, but could not find any how-to. Also, has anybody found an inexpensive exact fit replacement motor with links to actual parts or part numbers? I would also ask for a better how-to on the A/C mod. with pictures so it will come on with the AC. There are mentions, but not enough detail for me to try it.
I have lots of experience on other cars, but have owned this XJS for less than a year, and I am a relative novice on this engine.
I searched this forum, but could not find any how-to. Also, has anybody found an inexpensive exact fit replacement motor with links to actual parts or part numbers? I would also ask for a better how-to on the A/C mod. with pictures so it will come on with the AC. There are mentions, but not enough detail for me to try it.
I have lots of experience on other cars, but have owned this XJS for less than a year, and I am a relative novice on this engine.
#2
You have to remove the whole fan shroud to replace the aux fan.
As you notice, the nuts which hold the bracket is on the radiator side of the shroud.
The motor is quite expensive.
If you are not a worshipper of the original equipment, you can use a universal fan.
The shroud has an opening of approx 11.5", so you can fit a universal 12" fan cover perfectly.
Of course the fan blade is too large, so you can replace the blade with the one from 10" or 11" fan or you can cut the 12" blade to fit. I chose the latter way.
You can easily fix the fan with some cable ties.
In this case, you will have to cut the cover a bit to clear the fan switch and the left radiator upper hose.
As you notice, the nuts which hold the bracket is on the radiator side of the shroud.
The motor is quite expensive.
If you are not a worshipper of the original equipment, you can use a universal fan.
The shroud has an opening of approx 11.5", so you can fit a universal 12" fan cover perfectly.
Of course the fan blade is too large, so you can replace the blade with the one from 10" or 11" fan or you can cut the 12" blade to fit. I chose the latter way.
You can easily fix the fan with some cable ties.
In this case, you will have to cut the cover a bit to clear the fan switch and the left radiator upper hose.
#3
Thanks for the advice and suggestions. Someone else may want to do that, but I wanted to stay original, and find the cheapest way.
I figured out a way to do this without removing the fan shroud and radiator hoses. I unbolted the fan motor, clipped the wires, lowered the fan to the bottom, then removed the two top bracket nuts inside the shroud, taking care not to drop the nuts, and washers. Also, be prepared that all of the steel sleeve spacers under the nuts will probably come loose and fall out. I almost dropped them inside the shroud, and also when I removed the fan motor from the bracket.
Do NOT move the nuts on the outside of the shroud. They set the distance to for the fan blade to the radiator. I had to remove 3 small coolant bleeder hoses at the top to gain access to these nuts, and to allow the fan blade and motor to be removed thru the now loosened bracket. When replacing the fan motor and blade, I used new nylon locknuts. Also, be warned that it requires an extreme amount of manual dexterity to get the new washers and nuts back inside the shroud and onto the mounting bracket studs without dropping them. One could use hemostats, small locking vice grips, a box end 11mm wrench with paper shims holding the nut in, whatever you can devise, but it's still quicker than removing the entire shroud. I used black tie wraps to secure the new wires back, just like new. I folded the extra wire and loose ends into a small bundle and secured them with a tie-wrap, as well. I found a like-new fan, blade, and shroud assy. on ebay for $100.00 plus $15.00 shipping, tested it on a battery before proceeding. I bled the cooling system on a 20 degree slope while hot, running the heater on high.
It is now VERY quiet and works perfectly! I can now use the AC again without fear of overheating in traffic! I topped off the freon with R12 after using a CPS leak checker and UV dye, and also after months of use on the original charge without leaks.
I figured out a way to do this without removing the fan shroud and radiator hoses. I unbolted the fan motor, clipped the wires, lowered the fan to the bottom, then removed the two top bracket nuts inside the shroud, taking care not to drop the nuts, and washers. Also, be prepared that all of the steel sleeve spacers under the nuts will probably come loose and fall out. I almost dropped them inside the shroud, and also when I removed the fan motor from the bracket.
Do NOT move the nuts on the outside of the shroud. They set the distance to for the fan blade to the radiator. I had to remove 3 small coolant bleeder hoses at the top to gain access to these nuts, and to allow the fan blade and motor to be removed thru the now loosened bracket. When replacing the fan motor and blade, I used new nylon locknuts. Also, be warned that it requires an extreme amount of manual dexterity to get the new washers and nuts back inside the shroud and onto the mounting bracket studs without dropping them. One could use hemostats, small locking vice grips, a box end 11mm wrench with paper shims holding the nut in, whatever you can devise, but it's still quicker than removing the entire shroud. I used black tie wraps to secure the new wires back, just like new. I folded the extra wire and loose ends into a small bundle and secured them with a tie-wrap, as well. I found a like-new fan, blade, and shroud assy. on ebay for $100.00 plus $15.00 shipping, tested it on a battery before proceeding. I bled the cooling system on a 20 degree slope while hot, running the heater on high.
It is now VERY quiet and works perfectly! I can now use the AC again without fear of overheating in traffic! I topped off the freon with R12 after using a CPS leak checker and UV dye, and also after months of use on the original charge without leaks.
Last edited by mkinn; 09-06-2014 at 12:05 PM.
#4
Hi, your conversation is helpful to me. My car also has a fever even when it's idling. But if I drive or step on the accel, It goes down. To solve this problem, I also replaced the fan and the fan clutch.
Nevertheless, the problem persists, so I'm going to replace my current electronic fan like you. I think the current fan is not doing its job.
By the way, I don't know which product is the most suitable. Can you recommend me the brand or size of the fan? I wonder if I should consider the speed of the fans or the CFM rating(?).
I am attaching a picture of a fan of my car. Thank you in advance.
Nevertheless, the problem persists, so I'm going to replace my current electronic fan like you. I think the current fan is not doing its job.
By the way, I don't know which product is the most suitable. Can you recommend me the brand or size of the fan? I wonder if I should consider the speed of the fans or the CFM rating(?).
I am attaching a picture of a fan of my car. Thank you in advance.
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