91 XJS - Where is the oil pressure sending unit?
#1
91 XJS - Where is the oil pressure sending unit?
91 XJS, 5.3L - I just finished re-working the instrument cluster, and need help locating the oil pressure guage sending unit. The Oil pressure warning lamp works, but I'd also like to know where it's sending unit is. How do you test the guage? Can I just ground the wire at the sending unit and watch to see if the guage goes to the top? I can't find it on Jaguar Classic illustrated parts lists, so I would love a part number, photo, or links.
Last edited by mkinn; 09-07-2014 at 07:32 PM.
#3
91 5.3L V12 XJS Oil Gauge Sending Unit testing and replacement
Just found both sending units. The warning lamp sending unit sticks out from the back side of the oil pipes on the rear behind the injector rails. I clipped an alligator clip on it and grounded it while running, the oil pressure warning lamp lit up bright.
The oil pressure gauge sending unit is also in the rear of the engine, but in front of the fuel rails, behind the accelerator linkages, down in the middle of the V between the heads. It is covered by a large 3.5" round black rubber hood with a small wire coming out the top. Pull the rubber hood up, the wire may even come off the spade lug on the sending unit. I hooked the grounded alligator clip to this wire, and with the key on, the oil pressure gauge went all the way up, so I have a bad sending unit. If the gauge doesn't move, you have problems in your instrument cluster. If so, read post #3 here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-work-117268/
Part # C46272 is available here:
Jaguar OIL PRESSURE GAUGE SENDING UNIT - C46272-X
and here: Oil Pressure Sender URO Parts C15474 for Jaguar XKE 1965 1971 | eBay
Squeeze the female end with pliers before you press it back on to give it a tight grip, then fit the rubber hood back down around the lip to secure it.
The oil pressure gauge sending unit is also in the rear of the engine, but in front of the fuel rails, behind the accelerator linkages, down in the middle of the V between the heads. It is covered by a large 3.5" round black rubber hood with a small wire coming out the top. Pull the rubber hood up, the wire may even come off the spade lug on the sending unit. I hooked the grounded alligator clip to this wire, and with the key on, the oil pressure gauge went all the way up, so I have a bad sending unit. If the gauge doesn't move, you have problems in your instrument cluster. If so, read post #3 here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-work-117268/
Part # C46272 is available here:
Jaguar OIL PRESSURE GAUGE SENDING UNIT - C46272-X
and here: Oil Pressure Sender URO Parts C15474 for Jaguar XKE 1965 1971 | eBay
Squeeze the female end with pliers before you press it back on to give it a tight grip, then fit the rubber hood back down around the lip to secure it.
Last edited by mkinn; 09-15-2014 at 04:08 PM.
The following users liked this post:
LastChance (11-17-2018)
#4
I was happy to find your post and information on the XJS oil pressure sending unit. I ordered this part from 123Auto Parts and received the URO part C46272 which included an oblong copper washer. The oblong washer does not easily fit over the threaded end of the device and it’s tight fit requires it to be screwed down the threads, which seems odd. I have seen other posts about some sending units having tapered threads which create a tight seal when installing and I have seen some posts about some sending units have straight threads and requiring the copper washer. I have seen some posts saying Jaguar started offering a newer oil pressure sending unit which gave a more constant reading, but this newer part had the same jaguar part number.
My question is, does the C46272 part have tapered threads? If not, do I use the copper washer and why is the washer oblong and not round?
My question is, does the C46272 part have tapered threads? If not, do I use the copper washer and why is the washer oblong and not round?
#5
The washer is oblong because it is the wrong one/and or has been crushed.
If the threads are tapered ones (and I have seen both sorts, but recently mainly tapered) a washer is not needed because the tapered thread locks and seals well before the flat surfaces the washer is for are in contact. You can easily test to see, as if parallel threads the sender unit will screw down easily until the flat surfaces meet. If tapered, they will lock after a few turns.
You must support the aluminium casting the units are screwed into against the torque of undoing and doing up the units though. This is not that easy to do, but if you do not the tower will sheer off. The best thing to do is to remove the throttle pedestal tower and then you have enough room to do it safely.
If the threads are tapered ones (and I have seen both sorts, but recently mainly tapered) a washer is not needed because the tapered thread locks and seals well before the flat surfaces the washer is for are in contact. You can easily test to see, as if parallel threads the sender unit will screw down easily until the flat surfaces meet. If tapered, they will lock after a few turns.
You must support the aluminium casting the units are screwed into against the torque of undoing and doing up the units though. This is not that easy to do, but if you do not the tower will sheer off. The best thing to do is to remove the throttle pedestal tower and then you have enough room to do it safely.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)