'93 xjs vs '96 xjs
#1
'93 xjs vs '96 xjs
I am new to the forum and have been searching for an XJS. It will be my second Jag, the first being a '96 XJ6L that I owned (and loved) for a short time.
My question is are there notable differences in build quality, performance, and reliability between the '93 and '96 models? I know maintenance and care plays a huge role in reliability, so I am asking in very general terms.
Thanks,
Scott
My question is are there notable differences in build quality, performance, and reliability between the '93 and '96 models? I know maintenance and care plays a huge role in reliability, so I am asking in very general terms.
Thanks,
Scott
#2
Simple answer is that if I had a choice between the two I would go for the '96 just based on the AJ16 alone.
I would look up reliability ratings on the '93 XJ6 and the '96 XJ6 ( as the sedans share the same mechanics and they usually have higher mileage ) and you will quickly see why it is worth getting a '95 or '96 XJS if all things are equal. Just read up on the money and time Jaguar devoted to the '95 to '97 XJ6 sedan program which the '95 and '96 XJS was able to benefit from.
That is not to say that a '93 is not a good car but Jaguar continued to make improvements all the way to the end with the XJS so why not take advantage of the improvements if you can?
I would look up reliability ratings on the '93 XJ6 and the '96 XJ6 ( as the sedans share the same mechanics and they usually have higher mileage ) and you will quickly see why it is worth getting a '95 or '96 XJS if all things are equal. Just read up on the money and time Jaguar devoted to the '95 to '97 XJ6 sedan program which the '95 and '96 XJS was able to benefit from.
That is not to say that a '93 is not a good car but Jaguar continued to make improvements all the way to the end with the XJS so why not take advantage of the improvements if you can?
Last edited by LuvmyXJS'; 01-23-2016 at 05:35 PM.
#3
Thanks for the reply. I am looking at two cars. The '93 has 66k miles, new tires, new brakes, no leaks, no rust, everything works, same owner for 11 years, stored winters. I have only seen pictures so far. Asking $6500.
The '96 has 75k miles and is in need of a few repairs. It runs/drives fine. It has a small dent near the right headlight and the front spoiler has a crack and scuffs. I was quoted $1000 to repair/respray from a very good shop. The top is inop and the rear windows are down. The owner is not a Jag guy. The drivers seat and center armrest need attention but I have a shop that can do it reasonably. The only number he has mentioned is "around $5000". I know the fellow and actually sold him my dad's car a month ago. He casually mentioned he had an XJS that might be for sale. I think it could be bought for around $4000.
The '96 has 75k miles and is in need of a few repairs. It runs/drives fine. It has a small dent near the right headlight and the front spoiler has a crack and scuffs. I was quoted $1000 to repair/respray from a very good shop. The top is inop and the rear windows are down. The owner is not a Jag guy. The drivers seat and center armrest need attention but I have a shop that can do it reasonably. The only number he has mentioned is "around $5000". I know the fellow and actually sold him my dad's car a month ago. He casually mentioned he had an XJS that might be for sale. I think it could be bought for around $4000.
#4
The 93 has in-board rear brakes whereas the 96 doesn't. But if the rear rotors are new you may never need to change them again. Personally I prefer the bumpers of the 93 but that's up to you. I have owned both versions of the engine (AJ6 223 hp vs AJ16 245hp) and they're both excellent, just that the older one has a mechanical distributor and the newer one coil-on-plug ignition basically. Though I agree with LuvmyXJS' that the AJ16 makes the 96 an attractive version of the car.
The adage "buy the best one you can afford" might apply here.
The adage "buy the best one you can afford" might apply here.
Last edited by Mkii250; 01-24-2016 at 10:07 AM.
#5
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If it came down to *just* the two cars you've mentioned I would certainly go for the '93. From what you've said it seems to be in much better condition than the '96.
I agree that a '95-'96 would've been a better car, when brand new, than an older model. But, 20+ years down the road, actual present day condition and the type of care received are more important than design/build/quality differences when the cars were brand new. A well cared for older model will probably make you happier than a neglected later model.
An alternative, obviously, is to keep looking. If you'd specifically prefer a '95-96 car I'm sure you can find one in excellent condition.
Cheers
DD
I agree that a '95-'96 would've been a better car, when brand new, than an older model. But, 20+ years down the road, actual present day condition and the type of care received are more important than design/build/quality differences when the cars were brand new. A well cared for older model will probably make you happier than a neglected later model.
An alternative, obviously, is to keep looking. If you'd specifically prefer a '95-96 car I'm sure you can find one in excellent condition.
Cheers
DD
#6
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I second Doug's view. Although older in years, the mileage is about the same. The seems to have had much better care. I suspect that if you get the 96 for about 4 and spend the budgeted items, it will still be a lessor car in respect condition. Is there more to foind that needs fixing, bet on it....
Yup, buy the best car in the budget, year here, year there....
Carl
Yup, buy the best car in the budget, year here, year there....
Carl
#7
I would also consider the '93 based on what you are saying about both cars. You really have to check both cars out in person to know for sure what you are dealing with.
I always tell people to remember what it cost today to repaint a car or refurbish a tired or damaged interior etc. Since a quality exterior respray can easily exceed the cost of the two cars you are talking about you really need to be careful about buying say the '96 for $4K but find out it needs to be repainted and or has sat out a lot and everything is tired and faded etc.
Bottom line is when you are dealing with an older car that has a upper value comparable with the cost to repaint the car, it is all the more important to get the best overall conditioned car you can afford regardless of age and mileage.
If all things were "equal" between the two cars then why not get the one with the most improvements etc. from the factory but seldom when you are dealing with 20 plus year old cars are all things equal.
The fact that the '96 has so many things that were not kept up tells me that there is a good chance this car has been neglected but again the only way to know for sure will be to inspect both in person to see if either is the right car for you.
I always tell people to remember what it cost today to repaint a car or refurbish a tired or damaged interior etc. Since a quality exterior respray can easily exceed the cost of the two cars you are talking about you really need to be careful about buying say the '96 for $4K but find out it needs to be repainted and or has sat out a lot and everything is tired and faded etc.
Bottom line is when you are dealing with an older car that has a upper value comparable with the cost to repaint the car, it is all the more important to get the best overall conditioned car you can afford regardless of age and mileage.
If all things were "equal" between the two cars then why not get the one with the most improvements etc. from the factory but seldom when you are dealing with 20 plus year old cars are all things equal.
The fact that the '96 has so many things that were not kept up tells me that there is a good chance this car has been neglected but again the only way to know for sure will be to inspect both in person to see if either is the right car for you.
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#8
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I always tell people to remember what it cost today to repaint a car or refurbish a tired or damaged interior etc. Since a quality exterior respray can easily exceed the cost of the two cars you are talking about you really need to be careful about buying say the '96 for $4K but find out it needs to be repainted and or has sat out a lot and everything is tired and faded etc.
Too true.
If cosmetics are important to you.....and with a Jag, cosmetics are a big part of the deal for most people....pay for the condition you want up front rather than spend many, many thousands after the purchase. You'll save tons of money.
For a decent DIYer many of the usual mechanical problems can be repaired fairly easily and inexpensively. 'Tis the cosmetics that'll kill ya in terms of dollar expenditures
Cheers
DD
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Greg in France (01-25-2016)
#9
Thanks for the input fellas. I have looked at the '96 in person. Aside from the body issues I mentioned on the front end, the rest of the body and paint are superb. And it's Jade Green which I like a lot. The top also looks nearly new. As I said the top does not operate and the rear windows are stuck in the down position.
I have budgeted around $2500 to get the car back in good order. $1000 for the paint work, approx. $400 for the seat and console, and $1100 for the top issue and miscellaneous. Of course there will be some surprises but mechanically the car seems to be in good shape. And I am not afraid to tackle some issues myself.
I am amazed that you can't buy a decent MGB or TR-6 for what these cars (decent driver quality) seem to be selling for. A tremendous value it would seem.
I have budgeted around $2500 to get the car back in good order. $1000 for the paint work, approx. $400 for the seat and console, and $1100 for the top issue and miscellaneous. Of course there will be some surprises but mechanically the car seems to be in good shape. And I am not afraid to tackle some issues myself.
I am amazed that you can't buy a decent MGB or TR-6 for what these cars (decent driver quality) seem to be selling for. A tremendous value it would seem.
#10
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Years ago I was shopping for a TR6 when I ended up buying a really nice XJS V12 for well less than half the money of a similar condition TR6!
Go figure
I'd still love to have a TR6 one day, though
Cheers
DD
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ronbros (01-24-2016)
#11
Thanks for the input fellas. I have looked at the '96 in person. Aside from the body issues I mentioned on the front end, the rest of the body and paint are superb. And it's Jade Green which I like a lot. The top also looks nearly new. As I said the top does not operate and the rear windows are stuck in the down position.
I have budgeted around $2500 to get the car back in good order. $1000 for the paint work, approx. $400 for the seat and console, and $1100 for the top issue and miscellaneous. Of course there will be some surprises but mechanically the car seems to be in good shape. And I am not afraid to tackle some issues myself.
I am amazed that you can't buy a decent MGB or TR-6 for what these cars (decent driver quality) seem to be selling for. A tremendous value it would seem.
I have budgeted around $2500 to get the car back in good order. $1000 for the paint work, approx. $400 for the seat and console, and $1100 for the top issue and miscellaneous. Of course there will be some surprises but mechanically the car seems to be in good shape. And I am not afraid to tackle some issues myself.
I am amazed that you can't buy a decent MGB or TR-6 for what these cars (decent driver quality) seem to be selling for. A tremendous value it would seem.
Still blows my mind that I have less into my low mileage very nice '95 XJS convertibles then you would have even in a early '70's MG. Not knocking a MG but not even in the same league as the XJS-not even close.
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ronbros (01-24-2016)
#12
Go for the AJ16 car every time! It's a better car and worth much more in the long run.
As regards the hood, if you press the up switch and hold it for more than 8 seconds, the rear windows will then go up. If they don't, then the problem is almost definitely a poor contact on the handbrake switch and will cost you nothing to fix! If the windows do go up after 8 seconds, then the problem is mots likely a failed Hood Up relay and will cost you £5 to fix. The hood ecu or rams hardly ever fail so very unlikely to be that. So bargain hard and don't tell the vendor that it's probably a very cheap or free fix.
Good luck
Paul
As regards the hood, if you press the up switch and hold it for more than 8 seconds, the rear windows will then go up. If they don't, then the problem is almost definitely a poor contact on the handbrake switch and will cost you nothing to fix! If the windows do go up after 8 seconds, then the problem is mots likely a failed Hood Up relay and will cost you £5 to fix. The hood ecu or rams hardly ever fail so very unlikely to be that. So bargain hard and don't tell the vendor that it's probably a very cheap or free fix.
Good luck
Paul
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