94-96 Undertray...is this supposed to be there?
#1
94-96 Undertray...is this supposed to be there?
Hello guys;
Please look at this facelift owners; please look at the pictures on the ad
http://bit.ly/18LNSGD
Is this supposed to be there? I don't have it on my car!! The holes are not even there on my bumper !
Thanks for looking
Please look at this facelift owners; please look at the pictures on the ad
http://bit.ly/18LNSGD
Is this supposed to be there? I don't have it on my car!! The holes are not even there on my bumper !
Thanks for looking
#2
Yup. Absolutely supposed to be there.
I didn't get one with my second 1996, but had one one my first.
The front spoiler is very weak without it and will easily break without it. There's some other supposed cooling benefits, but I'm pretty sure it's primary purpose is to add some. Rigidity to that front spoiler.
I ended up cutting a sheet of 3/8 ABS plastic and screwing into place.
Looks like the PO had it removed since it probably blocked access to something he needed to get to. Your spoiler has been undoubtedly repainted as well.
I didn't get one with my second 1996, but had one one my first.
The front spoiler is very weak without it and will easily break without it. There's some other supposed cooling benefits, but I'm pretty sure it's primary purpose is to add some. Rigidity to that front spoiler.
I ended up cutting a sheet of 3/8 ABS plastic and screwing into place.
Looks like the PO had it removed since it probably blocked access to something he needed to get to. Your spoiler has been undoubtedly repainted as well.
#4
Yes, it is required. It helps with cooling, added strength to the spoiler. It helps hold in place the air ducts for the front brakes. It is supposed to be turned up at the rear edge to attach to the wheel well liners on both sides. I reinstalled mine after the front edge came loose and scraped the ground until I got it stopped. I used all new hardware with larger screws, lock nuts, and bigger fender washers.
#7
Apart from adding to the structural strength of the front spoiler, the Undertray also affects airflow and cooling.
Without the Undertray in place, more air passes under the vehicle and up into the engine bay from behind the radiator than passes across the radiator. With the undertray in place, this route is blocked and more air goes through the front grille and across the radiator.
Graham
Without the Undertray in place, more air passes under the vehicle and up into the engine bay from behind the radiator than passes across the radiator. With the undertray in place, this route is blocked and more air goes through the front grille and across the radiator.
Graham
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Forcedair1 (11-08-2017)
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#8
@everyone
Thanks so much for looking at this.
@Allan
Thanks for the part number.
Looking at the diagram on Jaguar classic parts, I don't have the cooling ducts for the cooling ducts for the brakes!!
The front bumper has no holes for me to screw this thing on. It never did. I just had the car repainted a week ago and the bumper repaired (the eyelets where torn up) I have been under the car before so I know the tray wasn't there.
I don't know how I am going to make those holes in the bumper though
Thanks so much for looking at this.
@Allan
Thanks for the part number.
Looking at the diagram on Jaguar classic parts, I don't have the cooling ducts for the cooling ducts for the brakes!!
The front bumper has no holes for me to screw this thing on. It never did. I just had the car repainted a week ago and the bumper repaired (the eyelets where torn up) I have been under the car before so I know the tray wasn't there.
I don't know how I am going to make those holes in the bumper though
#9
There are two options:
1. You can find the original plastic part from a breaker. (I located one in California somewhere a few months ago. He wanted $200+$50 to ship it. That's when I decided to make my own) You'll have to connect the back of the piece to the wheel wells and line up the front to come over the spoiler. You can then mark the holes and drill them in. Then you'll have to slip in the plastic sheet and the holes "should" line up.
2. You can buy the part from eBay, or make your own. You will notice there are no holes on the eBay part. Therefore you can make your own. You can drill it in anywhere you like. You will want to use somewhere between 6-8 screws for the front. I used black body screws. I think they were #8, 3/4" long. The metal will be harder to work with. What I would recommend is to drill the holes in the spoiler first, then place the part inside the spoiler and mark the spolier holes with a sharpie. That should let you drill the holes through the metal part much easier. You could skip that step with plastic.
***Last word of advice, regardless of which way you go. Get your fingers inside your bottom spoiler. Get inside of the lip that the part will need to slide into. Feel around for repair work. My spoiler had been repaired with a bunch of metal plates with rivets. There is no way the original plastic spoiler would have worked the way that thing was patched up. It was MUCH easier to drill the part back in at locations to avoid the previous patches/rivets.
1. You can find the original plastic part from a breaker. (I located one in California somewhere a few months ago. He wanted $200+$50 to ship it. That's when I decided to make my own) You'll have to connect the back of the piece to the wheel wells and line up the front to come over the spoiler. You can then mark the holes and drill them in. Then you'll have to slip in the plastic sheet and the holes "should" line up.
2. You can buy the part from eBay, or make your own. You will notice there are no holes on the eBay part. Therefore you can make your own. You can drill it in anywhere you like. You will want to use somewhere between 6-8 screws for the front. I used black body screws. I think they were #8, 3/4" long. The metal will be harder to work with. What I would recommend is to drill the holes in the spoiler first, then place the part inside the spoiler and mark the spolier holes with a sharpie. That should let you drill the holes through the metal part much easier. You could skip that step with plastic.
***Last word of advice, regardless of which way you go. Get your fingers inside your bottom spoiler. Get inside of the lip that the part will need to slide into. Feel around for repair work. My spoiler had been repaired with a bunch of metal plates with rivets. There is no way the original plastic spoiler would have worked the way that thing was patched up. It was MUCH easier to drill the part back in at locations to avoid the previous patches/rivets.
#11
Yes for all of th ereasons stated.
The one on my car broke and fell off. The OEM is NLA and the last prices I saw were in the $250.00 (US) range for the molded plastic factory part. I'm going to make my own from either sheet plastic or more likely sheet aluminum. The quick measurements I took were about 4'plus x 12" wide.
The one on my car broke and fell off. The OEM is NLA and the last prices I saw were in the $250.00 (US) range for the molded plastic factory part. I'm going to make my own from either sheet plastic or more likely sheet aluminum. The quick measurements I took were about 4'plus x 12" wide.
#12
I received a tracing from someone else which I was able to convert into a CAD and Google Sketchup file. It's almost complete. It is missing the location of the two inside holes that connect the sheet to the underside of the car (not the bumper or the wheel wells). I have it screwed in temporarily right now, but sometime soon, I plan on unscrewing my part and locating those holes.
If you are interested, you will need a 68" x 12" sheet of plastic. I used 3/16" ABS plastic that I ordered online for $40 shipped. Troll around Google to see if you can get a better deal, or I can try to recall where I ordered mine from.
I don't see why you couldn't go up to 1/4" if you wanted to. (Make sure you check the inside lip of your spoiler! I don't know if I could have squeezed an extra 1/16 over some of those rivets!)
Email me if you're interested in the file I have. Let me know if you prefer .dwg or the Sketchup version (which is free from Google).
If you are interested, you will need a 68" x 12" sheet of plastic. I used 3/16" ABS plastic that I ordered online for $40 shipped. Troll around Google to see if you can get a better deal, or I can try to recall where I ordered mine from.
I don't see why you couldn't go up to 1/4" if you wanted to. (Make sure you check the inside lip of your spoiler! I don't know if I could have squeezed an extra 1/16 over some of those rivets!)
Email me if you're interested in the file I have. Let me know if you prefer .dwg or the Sketchup version (which is free from Google).
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