I don't think so. A disconnected, or bad ground could cause problems. Play around with the TPS, under your throttle. My wiring has gotten brittle with age, and I find that my playing with it affects my idle. I plan on replacing that harness, and the wiring this weekend!

 

Quick update.
So in still trying to diagnose a no power issue on uphill grades (idled ok), I started testing various sensors that were suggested. One was the ECU temp sensor. Had 4.5k ohms cold. Not sure if this is within spec of a good sensor so if anybody has that spec, I'd like to know for future knowledge. Warm was 600 ohms. Anyway, looked at all connectors, , unplugged, re-plugged and the last thing I did was clean the MAF sensor with proper cleaner. Prior, I had been using starting fluid to try to start the car before finally changing the CPS and alternator. Car started fine right after the CPS replacement but had no power under load. So after cleaning the MAF and putting everything back together, she again started right up, quicker this time, and no more hesitation and no more under-load power loss. Seems cleaning the MAF was the answer. Took her for a spirited drive with full acceleration and all seems good now. The starting fluid I had been using may have built up a residue in the MAF sensor and cleaning it with proper MAF cleaner did it.

As a side note, since owning the car, I have always noticed the temp gauge never seems to come up to full operating temperature. I am not sure where the needle usually sits on a fully warmed up engine on the 4.0 AJ16. Always seems to sit about 1/4. Is it suppose to go to 1200? I always hear what sounds like the fan always engaged(roar) and typically it should be that way at hotter temps to draw more air. Shouldn't hear that in colder temps, but I still do. Never seems to quiet down indicating the fan freewheeling That's why I had taken the fan off earlier to see if the bimetallic coil spring was damaged, stuck or something. Didn't seem to be and heating it, I saw the spring move. Just not sure it is doing what it is supposed to do inside the viscous coupling clutch. This may be why my engine isn't coming up to temps.

 

My car typically has the needle somewhere on the N. Usually in the middle, but when idling at a red light, it could move, but it doesn’t leave the N.

In the summertime, the needle may creep up past the N, towards the H, when I have the AC running.

According to my manual, the Coolant Temp Sensor is telling you that the coolant is a 60 at 600ohms. It doesn’t say F or C.

At 435ohms the coolant is at 70F.

 

Vee,
Thanks for approximate values. Would be nice to find a chart with temp vs resistance values. When I unplugged the connector, I had to wait a few seconds, but I did notice the engine begin to slightly rise in rpm, not a lot, but enough to notice a change. Reconnecting the plug brought it back down, pagan only after several seconds. Probably the ECU had to reconfigure the fuel mapping in open and closed loop.
Now I just have to figure out why I'm running cooler than I should. Can still hear the mechanical fan on high speed or clutch always engaged when I think it should be in more of free- wheel.

 

I'm thinking you can replace the coolant sensor, since it's a $20 part and a 5 minute swap, AND you may have a failed thermostat. Your car simply cannot get hot enough because the stat has failed open. I think it's the latter.

 

Vee,
Yes, in the back of my head, I have always thought it was the Tstat as the engine has never come up to the "N" 12:00 position on the gauge since I have had it.