Actual data: Engine temperatures
#1
Actual data: Engine temperatures
I intend to make the most of my new infra red laser spot thermometer this summer. This is the first set of data after a fast 40 mile run, aircon on. These were taken after 5 minutes from stopping, the time it took to get the car on the ramp.
Air temp: 58°F
Sump sandwich plate: 157°F
Oil cooler (bypass type): In 160°F
out 105°F
Sump pan: 149°F
Cam cover by sprockets: A bank 180°F
B bank 185°F
Cam cover middle between intake runner gap: A 180
B 175
Gearbox sump: 128°F
Gearbox air cooler (plumbed in line with gearbox rad cooler): In 93°F
Out 85°F
Top Rad hose A bank: 133°F rising to 154°F after 5 more minutes (ie 10 minutes in total after stop)
B bank: 140°F rising to 170°F after 5 more minutes
After 10 minutes from stop bottom hose at 130°F (did not take bottom hose temp directly after stop)
Power steering hoses: Both cool to the touch.
Conclusions:
The bypass oil cooler definitely does work and does get oil flow, even though the oil pressure on the dial is between 40 to 50psi on the move above 2.500 to 3.000 rpm.
Oil temperatures are fine at the ambient temperature of the day
Water temps are fine at the ambient temperature of the day. But water temps rise by 20 to 30° F after a stop.
Gearbox oil temp is certainly fine at the ambient temperature.
From a judgement point of view, when ambient temps are nearer 90°F, I believe the engine temperatures recorded will all rise quite considerably. The heat radiating out of the engine bay on such a day is VASTLY greater than on a warm sunny, but not really hot day like today. So I will redo these figures under those conditions, same test route, same method, and we will see how much the cooling is adversely affected by higher ambient temperatures; Remember too, that I have the bumper slot on my car, and horns and secondary coil moved out of the airflow, so my rad is getting far better cooling airflow than the standard car. So I believe these figures are lower than would be recorded by a totally standard car.
Greg.
Air temp: 58°F
Sump sandwich plate: 157°F
Oil cooler (bypass type): In 160°F
out 105°F
Sump pan: 149°F
Cam cover by sprockets: A bank 180°F
B bank 185°F
Cam cover middle between intake runner gap: A 180
B 175
Gearbox sump: 128°F
Gearbox air cooler (plumbed in line with gearbox rad cooler): In 93°F
Out 85°F
Top Rad hose A bank: 133°F rising to 154°F after 5 more minutes (ie 10 minutes in total after stop)
B bank: 140°F rising to 170°F after 5 more minutes
After 10 minutes from stop bottom hose at 130°F (did not take bottom hose temp directly after stop)
Power steering hoses: Both cool to the touch.
Conclusions:
The bypass oil cooler definitely does work and does get oil flow, even though the oil pressure on the dial is between 40 to 50psi on the move above 2.500 to 3.000 rpm.
Oil temperatures are fine at the ambient temperature of the day
Water temps are fine at the ambient temperature of the day. But water temps rise by 20 to 30° F after a stop.
Gearbox oil temp is certainly fine at the ambient temperature.
From a judgement point of view, when ambient temps are nearer 90°F, I believe the engine temperatures recorded will all rise quite considerably. The heat radiating out of the engine bay on such a day is VASTLY greater than on a warm sunny, but not really hot day like today. So I will redo these figures under those conditions, same test route, same method, and we will see how much the cooling is adversely affected by higher ambient temperatures; Remember too, that I have the bumper slot on my car, and horns and secondary coil moved out of the airflow, so my rad is getting far better cooling airflow than the standard car. So I believe these figures are lower than would be recorded by a totally standard car.
Greg.
Last edited by Greg in France; 05-10-2015 at 04:59 AM.
The following 6 users liked this post by Greg in France:
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#2
I intend to make the most of my new infra red laser spot thermometer this summer. This is the first set of data after a fast 40 mile run, aircon on. These were taken after 5 minutes from stopping, the time it took to get the car on the ramp.
Air temp: 58°F
Sump sandwich plate: 157°F
Oil cooler (bypass type): In 160°F
out 105°F
Sump pan: 149°F
Cam cover by sprockets: A bank 180°F
B bank 185°F
Cam cover middle between intake runner gap: A 180
B 175
Gearbox sump: 128°F
Gearbox air cooler (plumbed in line with gearbox rad cooler): In 93°F
Out 85°F
Top Rad hose A bank: 133°F rising to 154°F after 5 more minutes (ie 10 minutes in total after stop)
B bank: 140°F rising to 170°F after 5 more minutes
After 10 minutes from stop bottom hose at 130°F (did not take bottom hose temp directly after stop)
Power steering hoses: Both cool to the touch.
Conclusions:
The bypass oil cooler definitely does work and does get oil flow, even though the oil pressure on the dial is between 40 to 50psi on the move above 2.500 to 3.000 rpm.
Oil temperatures are fine at the ambient temperature of the day
Water temps are fine at the ambient temperature of the day. But water temps rise by 20 to 30° F after a stop.
Gearbox oil temp is certainly fine at the ambient temperature.
From a judgement point of view, when ambient temps are nearer 90°F, I believe the engine temperatures recorded will all rise quite considerably. The heat radiating out of the engine bay on such a day is VASTLY greater than on a warm sunny, but not really hot day like today. So I will redo these figures under those conditions, same test route, same method, and we will see how much the cooling is adversely affected by higher ambient temperatures; Remember too, that I have the bumper slot on my car, and horns and secondary coil moved out of the airflow, so my rad is getting far better cooling airflow than the standard car. So I believe these figures are lower than would be recorded by a totally standard car.
Greg.
Air temp: 58°F
Sump sandwich plate: 157°F
Oil cooler (bypass type): In 160°F
out 105°F
Sump pan: 149°F
Cam cover by sprockets: A bank 180°F
B bank 185°F
Cam cover middle between intake runner gap: A 180
B 175
Gearbox sump: 128°F
Gearbox air cooler (plumbed in line with gearbox rad cooler): In 93°F
Out 85°F
Top Rad hose A bank: 133°F rising to 154°F after 5 more minutes (ie 10 minutes in total after stop)
B bank: 140°F rising to 170°F after 5 more minutes
After 10 minutes from stop bottom hose at 130°F (did not take bottom hose temp directly after stop)
Power steering hoses: Both cool to the touch.
Conclusions:
The bypass oil cooler definitely does work and does get oil flow, even though the oil pressure on the dial is between 40 to 50psi on the move above 2.500 to 3.000 rpm.
Oil temperatures are fine at the ambient temperature of the day
Water temps are fine at the ambient temperature of the day. But water temps rise by 20 to 30° F after a stop.
Gearbox oil temp is certainly fine at the ambient temperature.
From a judgement point of view, when ambient temps are nearer 90°F, I believe the engine temperatures recorded will all rise quite considerably. The heat radiating out of the engine bay on such a day is VASTLY greater than on a warm sunny, but not really hot day like today. So I will redo these figures under those conditions, same test route, same method, and we will see how much the cooling is adversely affected by higher ambient temperatures; Remember too, that I have the bumper slot on my car, and horns and secondary coil moved out of the airflow, so my rad is getting far better cooling airflow than the standard car. So I believe these figures are lower than would be recorded by a totally standard car.
Greg.
Although I'm not about to pretend I understand it all.
The following users liked this post:
Greg in France (05-10-2015)
#3
Goodinfo.
It will be interesting to see the changes when things warm up.
We all Poo Poo the by-pass cooler, but it was used for a very long time, with no monumental engine failures due to its existance.
My only beef with it, and the full flow, was the inability to drain that old oil out of it when changing the engine oil. Looked at it many times over the years, but never really got serious about sorting something, so the "new boys on the block" can have that pleasure.
It will be interesting to see the changes when things warm up.
We all Poo Poo the by-pass cooler, but it was used for a very long time, with no monumental engine failures due to its existance.
My only beef with it, and the full flow, was the inability to drain that old oil out of it when changing the engine oil. Looked at it many times over the years, but never really got serious about sorting something, so the "new boys on the block" can have that pleasure.
The following 2 users liked this post by Grant Francis:
Greg in France (05-10-2015),
orangeblossom (05-10-2015)
#4
I intend to make the most of my new infra red laser spot thermometer this summer. This is the first set of data after a fast 40 mile run, aircon on. These were taken after 5 minutes from stopping, the time it took to get the car on the ramp.
Air temp: 58°F
Sump sandwich plate: 157°F
Oil cooler (bypass type): In 160°F
out 105°F
Sump pan: 149°F
Cam cover by sprockets: A bank 180°F
B bank 185°F
Cam cover middle between intake runner gap: A 180
B 175
Gearbox sump: 128°F
Gearbox air cooler (plumbed in line with gearbox rad cooler): In 93°F
Out 85°F
Top Rad hose A bank: 133°F rising to 154°F after 5 more minutes (ie 10 minutes in total after stop)
B bank: 140°F rising to 170°F after 5 more minutes
After 10 minutes from stop bottom hose at 130°F (did not take bottom hose temp directly after stop)
Power steering hoses: Both cool to the touch.
Conclusions:
The bypass oil cooler definitely does work and does get oil flow, even though the oil pressure on the dial is between 40 to 50psi on the move above 2.500 to 3.000 rpm.
Oil temperatures are fine at the ambient temperature of the day
Water temps are fine at the ambient temperature of the day. But water temps rise by 20 to 30° F after a stop.
Gearbox oil temp is certainly fine at the ambient temperature.
From a judgement point of view, when ambient temps are nearer 90°F, I believe the engine temperatures recorded will all rise quite considerably. The heat radiating out of the engine bay on such a day is VASTLY greater than on a warm sunny, but not really hot day like today. So I will redo these figures under those conditions, same test route, same method, and we will see how much the cooling is adversely affected by higher ambient temperatures; Remember too, that I have the bumper slot on my car, and horns and secondary coil moved out of the airflow, so my rad is getting far better cooling airflow than the standard car. So I believe these figures are lower than would be recorded by a totally standard car.
Greg.
Air temp: 58°F
Sump sandwich plate: 157°F
Oil cooler (bypass type): In 160°F
out 105°F
Sump pan: 149°F
Cam cover by sprockets: A bank 180°F
B bank 185°F
Cam cover middle between intake runner gap: A 180
B 175
Gearbox sump: 128°F
Gearbox air cooler (plumbed in line with gearbox rad cooler): In 93°F
Out 85°F
Top Rad hose A bank: 133°F rising to 154°F after 5 more minutes (ie 10 minutes in total after stop)
B bank: 140°F rising to 170°F after 5 more minutes
After 10 minutes from stop bottom hose at 130°F (did not take bottom hose temp directly after stop)
Power steering hoses: Both cool to the touch.
Conclusions:
The bypass oil cooler definitely does work and does get oil flow, even though the oil pressure on the dial is between 40 to 50psi on the move above 2.500 to 3.000 rpm.
Oil temperatures are fine at the ambient temperature of the day
Water temps are fine at the ambient temperature of the day. But water temps rise by 20 to 30° F after a stop.
Gearbox oil temp is certainly fine at the ambient temperature.
From a judgement point of view, when ambient temps are nearer 90°F, I believe the engine temperatures recorded will all rise quite considerably. The heat radiating out of the engine bay on such a day is VASTLY greater than on a warm sunny, but not really hot day like today. So I will redo these figures under those conditions, same test route, same method, and we will see how much the cooling is adversely affected by higher ambient temperatures; Remember too, that I have the bumper slot on my car, and horns and secondary coil moved out of the airflow, so my rad is getting far better cooling airflow than the standard car. So I believe these figures are lower than would be recorded by a totally standard car.
Greg.
Shoot the t-stat housings on both sides at full temp please. I am getting 210ish at both banks, at 75 degrees ambient, fully warmed up of course.
Interested in what you see.
Thanks.
Jeff
#5
You might want to add readings of the differential.
In recent years Chevrolet added a differential cooler
to Corvettes shipped to Europe. Maybe because they
were being blasted down the autobahn.
People tracking their Corvettes in the US note that they
can bring the differential up to 400*F in a few laps. They're
fitting oil coolers
In recent years Chevrolet added a differential cooler
to Corvettes shipped to Europe. Maybe because they
were being blasted down the autobahn.
People tracking their Corvettes in the US note that they
can bring the differential up to 400*F in a few laps. They're
fitting oil coolers
#6
Meh, my stat housing read that on a 90 degree day. What are you recording these with??
I would actually prefer it to be warmer outside, since for me there is a noticeable delay in oil pressure at cold and something in the engine bay whines. I can only hear it from inside and it disappears in 10-30 seconds, so in 2 years I haven't tracked it down lol.
I would actually prefer it to be warmer outside, since for me there is a noticeable delay in oil pressure at cold and something in the engine bay whines. I can only hear it from inside and it disappears in 10-30 seconds, so in 2 years I haven't tracked it down lol.
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