aftermarket stereo...
#1
aftermarket stereo...
Basically i'm trying to wire in a aftermarket stereo in a jag xjs 1985 model, i've managed to remove the old one, wired in the speakers, but can't figure out what wire need to go where with the four that are left.
I can manage to get the live to power the stereo on for a second and get a spark but it dosen't stay on, could do with someone with a picture of a wiring diagram. I've attached the fibre optic and earth to the back of the stereo.
I'm using a mutant stereo system if thats any help..
I can manage to get the live to power the stereo on for a second and get a spark but it dosen't stay on, could do with someone with a picture of a wiring diagram. I've attached the fibre optic and earth to the back of the stereo.
I'm using a mutant stereo system if thats any help..
#2
#3
#4
I would suggest running a appropriately sized wire direct to the battery for both your positive and negative leads. Hopefully, your amp has a remote power on/off which will run the head unit. Also, the closer your amp is to the primary power source (the battery), the better. Depending on your amp size, you benefit from a capacitor as well. You will know if you need one if your lights dim when you turn on the amp.
#5
I would suggest running a appropriately sized wire direct to the battery for both your positive and negative leads. Hopefully, your amp has a remote power on/off which will run the head unit. Also, the closer your amp is to the primary power source (the battery), the better. Depending on your amp size, you benefit from a capacitor as well. You will know if you need one if your lights dim when you turn on the amp.
If your lights dim, you need:
A) Bigger (or second) alternator
or
B) Second (even third) battery
The bigger alt will be your best route.
Have you ever seen what the interior of a car looks like when a capacitor explodes? Imagine dumping battery acid all over the inside of your interior..... Not pleasant.
#6
Basically i'm trying to wire in a aftermarket stereo in a jag xjs 1985 model, i've managed to remove the old one, wired in the speakers, but can't figure out what wire need to go where with the four that are left.
I can manage to get the live to power the stereo on for a second and get a spark but it dosen't stay on, could do with someone with a picture of a wiring diagram. I've attached the fibre optic and earth to the back of the stereo.
I'm using a mutant stereo system if thats any help..
I can manage to get the live to power the stereo on for a second and get a spark but it dosen't stay on, could do with someone with a picture of a wiring diagram. I've attached the fibre optic and earth to the back of the stereo.
I'm using a mutant stereo system if thats any help..
And what do you mean by fiber optic, are you using the alpine headunit/amp fiberoptic combo?
Take some pics of your wiring, back of stereo, and amp for me and ill help ya out
Best place to ground (earth) the amp is the chassis, unless you can ground it directly to the battery in under 3 feet of wire. Make sure your ground (earth) wire is the same size, if not larger than your power wire to the amp.
Also, what wire did you run to the "remote" on the amp, there are two wires that can be tricky sometimes, what i have seen alot of times is people running the power antenna wire to the amp remote turn on which wont work. Turn on the actual radio on the stereo and tell me if the amp turns on, if it does, you have the wrong remote wire.
The power antenna wire only supplies 12v when you turn the radio on, hence if you had a power antenna, the mast would only go up when you are listening to the radio
Last edited by jake21; 12-26-2012 at 10:43 PM.
#7
Not trying to step on your feet, but, capacitors are junk. Trust me, I have been installing stereos professionally for a long time. Capacitors are like putting a band-aid on a broken bone, wont fix anything.
If your lights dim, you need:
A) Bigger (or second) alternator
or
B) Second (even third) battery
The bigger alt will be your best route.
Have you ever seen what the interior of a car looks like when a capacitor explodes? Imagine dumping battery acid all over the inside of your interior..... Not pleasant.
If your lights dim, you need:
A) Bigger (or second) alternator
or
B) Second (even third) battery
The bigger alt will be your best route.
Have you ever seen what the interior of a car looks like when a capacitor explodes? Imagine dumping battery acid all over the inside of your interior..... Not pleasant.
Regarding the capacitor option - Just passing on information I was given by by Monster while at SEMA last year. According to them, and a few other quality car audio manufacturers, capacitors are an excellent option as long as a HIGH quality unit is used. Not the $79 import version. But, there's almost always a better option, a high output alternator coupled with a high capacity battery is certainly the best one. Thanks for pointing it out. Not too sure where or how I would add a second alternator and/or a second battery in this vehicle though. I know I wouldn't. Also, at some point, cost becomes a factor too.
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#8
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Regarding the capacitor option - Just passing on information I was given by by Monster while at SEMA last year. According to them, and a few other quality car audio manufacturers, capacitors are an excellent option as long as a HIGH quality unit is used. Not the $79 import version. But, there's almost always a better option, a high output alternator coupled with a high capacity battery is certainly the best one. Thanks for pointing it out. Not too sure where or how I would add a second alternator and/or a second battery in this vehicle though. I know I wouldn't. Also, at some point, cost becomes a factor too.
Regarding the capacitor option - Just passing on information I was given by by Monster while at SEMA last year. According to them, and a few other quality car audio manufacturers, capacitors are an excellent option as long as a HIGH quality unit is used. Not the $79 import version. But, there's almost always a better option, a high output alternator coupled with a high capacity battery is certainly the best one. Thanks for pointing it out. Not too sure where or how I would add a second alternator and/or a second battery in this vehicle though. I know I wouldn't. Also, at some point, cost becomes a factor too.
#9
If you use a isolator, use a solenoid isolator and not a diode isolator. The difference being you will lose 1 volt of power to your stereo witht the diode issolator resulting in weaker amps. Most name brand amps are rated at 14.4 volts, the average output of an alternator. If you lose a volt you are now at 13.4~ volts so for example of you have a 1000 watt amp, your amp will now only put out ~700-800 watts from the lower voltage bing supplied
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