https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/evaporator-36971.html

Jaguar Partno_AEU1191*_AIRCON EVAPORATOR XJ6 XJ12 XJS_David Manners Group with Alts

https://www.jagbits.com/category/XJS_Climate_5.html

But check the model year...
Greg

 

https://www.jagbits.com/product/AEU1191-X.html and get 10% off by using coupon code JAGFORUMS-10%

 

Thank you all.

I am looking for JLM1197 for a 1992 V12 (Facelift)

 

UPDATE:

So, rewiring the harness, replacing the HSLP switch, and replacing the hoses -- it looked like I might be making progress... haha no.

Before my starter failed, the system held vacuum overnight so I got excited that it was time to put in some r134a, and see how things go. Followed instructions on filling and the system seemed to take one can easily and I was getting 70lbs of pressure on the low side, and initially was getting approximately the same amount on the high side. When attaching a second can, it didn't seem to want to take in more and I wasn't sure if the compressor was kicking in. It got late and I was going to take a look at things the next morning, but that was the day the starter died.

So finally after getting the starter sorted and having a free day last weekend, I hooked up the gauges and I have 70lbs of pressure on the low side, and ZERO on the high side. Confirmed that the compressor was NOT kicking in (I assume the HSLP switch was doing its job). I tried jumping the compressor directly to 12V, hear it click, but still 0lbs on the high side.

Don't know what to do next. Any advice is appreciated, and apologies for my obvious stupidity on this.

 

If you unplug the wire to the HSLP switch and ground it, that should allow the clutch to engage.

Starting from first principles, with the compressor off, there should be a flow path from the low to high side through the expansion valve and the pressures should equalize eventually when the system is off. Are you saying that the gauge set is now showing 70 psi low side and Zero high side? Have you checked that your gauges are correctly connected and are actually opening the shrader valves? I have a gauge set that has a twist knob at the connections so I can make and break the connections without a path to the refrigerant, it almost sounds like your gauges are not connected right. Do you have the R12 style screw on fittings or R134 quick connects? Where appropriate, does your hoses have the pins to depress the plunger in the valves?

If the gauges are giving a true reading, when the clutch engages the low side should drop significantly and quickly. The A6 compressor can actually pull vacuum, it's a strong compressor. If the pressures do not drop on the low side and the high side does nothing, then I would suspect the expansion valve is stuck closed or has debris in it. There must be a blockage somewhere preventing circulation, and the expansion valve is the smallest orifice, so a logical place to start.

 

Good catch! I loaned the manifold gauge set out while I was figuring out the starter and didn't notice that the hoses had been turned around so the shrader pin ends where going into the manifold. There was also a small green O-ring stuck inside the high side connector that my friend must of put in there. This prevented it engaging the pin on the shrader valve.

Once the gauges were set up correctly, I was able to add enough for the compressor to kick in.

With the compressor running these are my current readings:

Ambient temp = 78F
Low Side = 25lb
High Side = 175lb

More r134a required but otherwise normal?

Thanks for your help!

 

Seems about right. When I am charging with a non native refrigerant I monitor the vent temps. I also spray the condenser with a garden hose to extract most of the heat. As you add refrigerant, the vent temps should fall, and then reach a minimum and stay there. If you keep adding refrigerant the temps may start to rise slightly, then that's the right amount of refrigerant.

Also keep an eye on the clutch, if the compressor is running all the time, then it's probably undercharged, you should be able to maintain the lowest temps with the compressor cycling. The XJS does have an evaporator temperature sensor, so when the evaporator reaches minimum temperature it will cause the compressor to cycle, and prevents the evaporator from freezing. So if you have vent temps a few degrees above freezing, and a cycling compressor, you are good.

As a guide, my 1994 XJS was factory filled with R134 and it calls for 900g.

 

Hmmm, that brings up another set of issues to be dealt with. Whatever makes the conditioned air come out the center vent is not working, and one of the interior fans is 'always on' so I had to pull the fuse a couple a years ago so it didn't kill the battery. So measuring vent temp is a little challenging.

My first goals were to make sure the new compressor doesn't die because the system isn't charged, and to make sure the fuel cooler works. Next is to tackle the center vent and fan issue though I dread the fan thing like the plague.

 

Centre vent is possibly a vacuum connection, and on mine the most of the air goes to the floor until the car temps stabilizes near the set point and it comes out the dash vents.

If a blower is always on, that is likely the Darlington transistor in the variable speed circuit has failed. That circuit board is within the blower housing, so the blower has to come out, but if you can solder it's easy to repair. There are diagrams and discussion in the archives here.

 

At the risk of jinxing the whole thing, I'm pleased to report that real progress has been made.

The Jaguar Factory conversion guide specifies 1180g of r134a is required, and this morning I was able to fill the system to approximately that amount. Lo and behold, it works as intended. Vent air reaching 34-36F!

Temporarily put the driver's side AC fan fuse back in, and was impressed with the amount of cold air blowing, but NO love from the center vent. I will search the archives on how to fix the center vent, and eventually tackle the transistor problem with fan. But for now, I'm glad that my fuel cooler will work and the new compressor will be protected.

Sincere thank you to everyone who helped me muddle my way through to this point!

 

Ignore prior version of this post. I need to do so more investigating.

 

I am not an expert and have my own AC issues to fix later this summer but i do have my instrument panel and center console all aprt right now.
I discovered some very small plastic tubes behind the radio. At least one of them had come off its connection. Probably when the radio was being replaced at one point. It is very tight back in there and shoving wires back in could easily have disturbed these tubes. I am assuming they have to do with vacuum operating the flap doors of the vents.

Others my want to chime in here with more expert comment but it may be something to check out. Of course since its a jaguar nothing is easy and getting into the tight spaces is no joy on these aging bones. LOL

 

Yes, they are vacuum lines. I've attached a description of the system that shows where the various colours go.

 

Thanks,
I am now wondering if I have the Mk II system. My VIN is 137490,slightly before the point shown from the diagrams.

 

Brad
The mark II system does not have the manual "pull out the knob" for full cold feature on the LHS temp knob. If your knob will not pull out and click, you have the mark II.

 

Greg,
Thanks!! Yes, my car has the Pull out/On feature so it looks like I in fact do have the Mk III system. That simplifies things.