Any winter projects going on?
#1
Any winter projects going on?
Hey guys,
as most of us XJ-S/XJS owners are experiencing winter at the moment, apart for a few downunder (), would be the question:
do you have any winter projects on the go?
MIne is currently getting my Shabuar XJ8 ready for a long overdue TÜV inspection... Like replacing shocks, brakes and bushes...
What are yours?
as most of us XJ-S/XJS owners are experiencing winter at the moment, apart for a few downunder (), would be the question:
do you have any winter projects on the go?
MIne is currently getting my Shabuar XJ8 ready for a long overdue TÜV inspection... Like replacing shocks, brakes and bushes...
What are yours?
#2
Hi Daim
Just a couple of days ago, it was just like Summer and I was very tempted to back Tax 'Cherry Blossom' to the 1st of March
So I could take her Winter Covers off and then take her out for the first run of the Year but as life got in the way that never happened
Which was probably just as well as it has been Snowing for the past two days, so now I am going to leave that until april
But as its really much too Cold to want to go outside, I'm making a list of all the things that I am going to need
To get 'The Ice Princess' back up and running
Just a couple of days ago, it was just like Summer and I was very tempted to back Tax 'Cherry Blossom' to the 1st of March
So I could take her Winter Covers off and then take her out for the first run of the Year but as life got in the way that never happened
Which was probably just as well as it has been Snowing for the past two days, so now I am going to leave that until april
But as its really much too Cold to want to go outside, I'm making a list of all the things that I am going to need
To get 'The Ice Princess' back up and running
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Daim (03-18-2018)
#3
Reading your post (Daim) is quite ironic, I've been getting my XJSC up to snuff over winter and have been using it daily for the last month (awesome motor) but now am heading 'to the land down under' for a few months so wont get to use the car for a while now.
When I'm back home I have the front shocks and roll bar bushes, plus I have the well known annoying 'clunk' on the back end I need to sort, thought it was a broken exhaust bracket letting the muffler bang on the body but it's still doing it occasionally over bumps and hard acceleration sometimes, could be prop/gearbox mounts/springs but as it is from the back end - probably diff area, but I can't check the diff bolts as I have the XJSC 'ladder' in the way so plan to remove that then check the bolts. Already replaced the rear springs and shocks so I know it's not those. All else seems tight under there as well (bone bearings etc. as I think Greg detailed very well a while back).
I do also have an odd grinding noise on the right rear when going round tight right hand corners especially low speeds, I think it may the right half shaft.... again, when I can get to the diff I can check the fill and drain plugs then replace the diff oil (with the lsd type) and see if that resolves it (wonder if the bang and grinding noise are related?). The grinding does kinda sounds like some of my old cars I had in the UK when their driveshafts were going, could also be a UJ... Any XJSC owners out there taken their ladder off yet I wonder? If not, I will do a write up with pictures.
When I'm back home I have the front shocks and roll bar bushes, plus I have the well known annoying 'clunk' on the back end I need to sort, thought it was a broken exhaust bracket letting the muffler bang on the body but it's still doing it occasionally over bumps and hard acceleration sometimes, could be prop/gearbox mounts/springs but as it is from the back end - probably diff area, but I can't check the diff bolts as I have the XJSC 'ladder' in the way so plan to remove that then check the bolts. Already replaced the rear springs and shocks so I know it's not those. All else seems tight under there as well (bone bearings etc. as I think Greg detailed very well a while back).
I do also have an odd grinding noise on the right rear when going round tight right hand corners especially low speeds, I think it may the right half shaft.... again, when I can get to the diff I can check the fill and drain plugs then replace the diff oil (with the lsd type) and see if that resolves it (wonder if the bang and grinding noise are related?). The grinding does kinda sounds like some of my old cars I had in the UK when their driveshafts were going, could also be a UJ... Any XJSC owners out there taken their ladder off yet I wonder? If not, I will do a write up with pictures.
Last edited by kjopen; 03-18-2018 at 12:44 PM.
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Daim (03-18-2018)
#4
Old engine is out, planning for the new (to the car) engine to go in. My next step is to cut out the floor and trans tunnel to accommodate the wider tailshaft and longer length of the trans, then get custom motor and transmission mounts manufactured.
350hp from the XJR engine should help it move a bit faster than the original 164 hp!
350hp from the XJR engine should help it move a bit faster than the original 164 hp!
#5
Old engine is out, planning for the new (to the car) engine to go in. My next step is to cut out the floor and trans tunnel to accommodate the wider tailshaft and longer length of the trans, then get custom motor and transmission mounts manufactured.
350hp from the XJR engine should help it move a bit faster than the original 164 hp!
350hp from the XJR engine should help it move a bit faster than the original 164 hp!
#6
Well, quicker. With the original engine it did 0-60 mph in 23 seconds, so not exactly speedy. I will be doubling the hp and torque, so the power/weight ratio will be about the same as a late Ford Crown Victoria. I'm expecting 0-60 around 10 seconds, which would be reasonable for a 2400kg car.
#7
Well, quicker. With the original engine it did 0-60 mph in 23 seconds, so not exactly speedy. I will be doubling the hp and torque, so the power/weight ratio will be about the same as a late Ford Crown Victoria. I'm expecting 0-60 around 10 seconds, which would be reasonable for a 2400kg car.
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#9
Thanks! I think the most time consuming part is sorting out the wiring and computers. Some inputs need to be faked to make the ECU think components are there that are really not, like traction control for example.
Did I mention that I also manufactured an air conditioning /climate control system for it? Started with a 4'x8' sheet of 22 gauge steel and cut and bent it up into all the ducts and control flaps I need. I'm adapting a Ford control head to give me fully automatic climate control.
The XJR wiring:
Did I mention that I also manufactured an air conditioning /climate control system for it? Started with a 4'x8' sheet of 22 gauge steel and cut and bent it up into all the ducts and control flaps I need. I'm adapting a Ford control head to give me fully automatic climate control.
The XJR wiring:
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orangeblossom (03-21-2018)
#10
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orangeblossom (03-21-2018)
#12
Tonight I spent some quality time with a friend who is an Electrical Engineer (Chartered Engineer in UK speak) and we're going over the electrical guide, figuring out what wiring to keep, and what to get rid of.
Not quite KWE, I can't buy paint any more to do much in the way of bodywork. I have to be a journeyman bodyman to be able to buy auto paint.
Not quite KWE, I can't buy paint any more to do much in the way of bodywork. I have to be a journeyman bodyman to be able to buy auto paint.
Last edited by Jagboi64; 03-22-2018 at 11:10 PM.
#15
Autobody paint I can't buy unless I'm in the trades and licensed. It does release isocyinates when it's mixed, so the Government wanted to make sure that everyone who handles it has the knowledge and protection to not poison themselves.
Last time I bought paint it worked out to about $300/litre just for supplies, so it gets expensive quickly. It's easier to do all the prep and then send it out to a body shop for final spraying.
Last time I bought paint it worked out to about $300/litre just for supplies, so it gets expensive quickly. It's easier to do all the prep and then send it out to a body shop for final spraying.
#16
Autobody paint I can't buy unless I'm in the trades and licensed. It does release isocyinates when it's mixed, so the Government wanted to make sure that everyone who handles it has the knowledge and protection to not poison themselves.
Last time I bought paint it worked out to about $300/litre just for supplies, so it gets expensive quickly. It's easier to do all the prep and then send it out to a body shop for final spraying.
Last time I bought paint it worked out to about $300/litre just for supplies, so it gets expensive quickly. It's easier to do all the prep and then send it out to a body shop for final spraying.
#18
Autobody paint I can't buy unless I'm in the trades and licensed. It does release isocyinates when it's mixed, so the Government wanted to make sure that everyone who handles it has the knowledge and protection to not poison themselves.
Last time I bought paint it worked out to about $300/litre just for supplies, so it gets expensive quickly. It's easier to do all the prep and then send it out to a body shop for final spraying.
Last time I bought paint it worked out to about $300/litre just for supplies, so it gets expensive quickly. It's easier to do all the prep and then send it out to a body shop for final spraying.
I suspect, however, that rather than genuine risk of harm, in Canada's case it's the nanny state at work. Still, at $300 a litre, it's definitely better to contract it out.
#19
I can get the lot mate... No matter if single or twin component. Water base, solvent base, unicorn-fart base. There is no sales restriction here for paint. Just where you dispose of unused stuff.
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orangeblossom (03-24-2018)