Back together but no start.... I think it's no spark?
#1
Back together but no start.... I think it's no spark?
So disappointing to get it all together and not have it start! Fuel was getting to the rail and the only thing I could try and test was spark I have an inline spark plug bulb tester... when cranking the car the bulb never flashed. I replaced the distributor cap but not rotor. All plugs are new. I believe all the wires to power pack are in correct place. Ugh so frustrating.
#2
Maybe it's fate... trying to save you from a certain flaming death. Look at that hose by the ignition amp! I wouldn't want the car running! In any event, look at anything on the wiring diagram related to the coil that is white. White is live with key in run. That will make sure you've got power to the coil...
#4
Maybe it's fate... trying to save you from a certain flaming death. Look at that hose by the ignition amp! I wouldn't want the car running! In any event, look at anything on the wiring diagram related to the coil that is white. White is live with key in run. That will make sure you've got power to the coil...
#5
Well that line by the amp looks pretty bad. Not your question though so, if you suspect you might have messed something up, grab a wiring diagram and run continuity tests from each connector. I made a harness for my 92, thought I did it perfect, but the car didn't run. Found the flywheel connector was continuous with its own ground which was wrong. Your car doesn't have a flywheel sensor, but it's the same idea to check continuity anywhere you screwed with wiring
#6
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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So disappointing to get it all together and not have it start! Fuel was getting to the rail and the only thing I could try and test was spark I have an inline spark plug bulb tester... when cranking the car the bulb never flashed. I replaced the distributor cap but not rotor. All plugs are new. I believe all the wires to power pack are in correct place. Ugh so frustrating. [img]
"No spark" might be an easy fix.
I'd begin with some easy checks. Hopefully you have a 12v test light:
-With the key 'on' do you have 12v on both terminals of the coil?
-Now, when cranking, does your test light flicker if you touch it to the "-" side of the coil?
-How are the two wires (and connector) that run from the distributor to the amplifier? A little hard to see and reach but they often give trouble, especially where they pass through the distributor body and where they go into the rubber connector.
Cheers
DD
#7
"No spark" might be an easy fix.
I'd begin with some easy checks. Hopefully you have a 12v test light:
-With the key 'on' do you have 12v on both terminals of the coil?
-Now, when cranking, does your test light flicker if you touch it to the "-" side of the coil?
-How are the two wires (and connector) that run from the distributor to the amplifier? A little hard to see and reach but they often give trouble, especially where they pass through the distributor body and where they go into the rubber connector.
Cheers
DD
I'd begin with some easy checks. Hopefully you have a 12v test light:
-With the key 'on' do you have 12v on both terminals of the coil?
-Now, when cranking, does your test light flicker if you touch it to the "-" side of the coil?
-How are the two wires (and connector) that run from the distributor to the amplifier? A little hard to see and reach but they often give trouble, especially where they pass through the distributor body and where they go into the rubber connector.
Cheers
DD
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#8
Well that line by the amp looks pretty bad. Not your question though so, if you suspect you might have messed something up, grab a wiring diagram and run continuity tests from each connector. I made a harness for my 92, thought I did it perfect, but the car didn't run. Found the flywheel connector was continuous with its own ground which was wrong. Your car doesn't have a flywheel sensor, but it's the same idea to check continuity anywhere you screwed with wiring
#9
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#10
Only a handful of likely suspects.
HT spark plug leads broken or leaking spark
Dizzy cap pickups are burned or carbon trails in cap
rotor shorting to dizzy shaft
rotor button missing / worn out
Dizzy pickup bad / misadjusted
dizzy wires d/c'd or broken / shorting
amp module bad or d/c'd
amp to coil wire d/c'd or broken / shorting
Coil shorted internally
no power to coil.
Plug your spark test light into coil, run the HT wire from test light to a plug. HT leads, cap, rotor and button out of the equation.
Supply the coil with power to v+ This takes the ignition switch out of the equation.
12v test light to coil v-. Crank her. Flashing means ECU is getting pickups signal and grounding the coil. If you get flashing 12v test light but no spark on the HT Spark test light then the coil is dead.
No flash on 12v coil test light and the Dizzy pickup, wires to amp, amp module or amp to ECU wire, ECU are suspect.
If you get spark it means issue is in the coil HT lead, button, rotor, cap or HT leads.
Divide and conquor.
I suspect a short in the wrapped leads. Unless you wrapped them individually.
HT spark plug leads broken or leaking spark
Dizzy cap pickups are burned or carbon trails in cap
rotor shorting to dizzy shaft
rotor button missing / worn out
Dizzy pickup bad / misadjusted
dizzy wires d/c'd or broken / shorting
amp module bad or d/c'd
amp to coil wire d/c'd or broken / shorting
Coil shorted internally
no power to coil.
Plug your spark test light into coil, run the HT wire from test light to a plug. HT leads, cap, rotor and button out of the equation.
Supply the coil with power to v+ This takes the ignition switch out of the equation.
12v test light to coil v-. Crank her. Flashing means ECU is getting pickups signal and grounding the coil. If you get flashing 12v test light but no spark on the HT Spark test light then the coil is dead.
No flash on 12v coil test light and the Dizzy pickup, wires to amp, amp module or amp to ECU wire, ECU are suspect.
If you get spark it means issue is in the coil HT lead, button, rotor, cap or HT leads.
Divide and conquor.
I suspect a short in the wrapped leads. Unless you wrapped them individually.
Last edited by JigJag; 06-28-2017 at 06:47 AM.
#11
I used the test light and had light on at the coil but on cranking the negative didn't flash but positive did... I'm guessing I have a couple wires backward. I think one of the connectors might have came off on the terminal when I pulled it off a couple months ago. Is there a quick diagram of which wires go to the coil?
#13
connectors for the coil are male / female and not easily misconnected. If you replaced any spades or female spade receivers it's possible.
Last edited by JigJag; 06-28-2017 at 07:29 PM.
#14
if you still have the two coil set up as when it came new (I am guessing that your car is a pre-88 since I can see the washer fluid bottle on the passenger side) this would be good time to upgrade to a single coil unit.
The two coil set up was used due to the electrical demands of the V12 at high speed. A single coil at that time could not provide sufficient power quick enough. That changed a few years later. The single coil units had much more capacity, My 2 cents.
The two coil set up was used due to the electrical demands of the V12 at high speed. A single coil at that time could not provide sufficient power quick enough. That changed a few years later. The single coil units had much more capacity, My 2 cents.
#15
or, as you suggested, miswired. You'll definately get no spark from that coil until it's triggered properly. If you correct the wiring, v+ is powered, and the v- is flashing and you still get no spark from the coil, then you can call it dead.
connectors for the coil are male / female and not easily misconnected. If you replaced any spades or female spade receivers it's possible.
connectors for the coil are male / female and not easily misconnected. If you replaced any spades or female spade receivers it's possible.
if you still have the two coil set up as when it came new (I am guessing that your car is a pre-88 since I can see the washer fluid bottle on the passenger side) this would be good time to upgrade to a single coil unit.
The two coil set up was used due to the electrical demands of the V12 at high speed. A single coil at that time could not provide sufficient power quick enough. That changed a few years later. The single coil units had much more capacity, My 2 cents.
The two coil set up was used due to the electrical demands of the V12 at high speed. A single coil at that time could not provide sufficient power quick enough. That changed a few years later. The single coil units had much more capacity, My 2 cents.
#17
There is procedure for testing. It helped me, I had bad amplifier.
Lucas Ignition (to 1989)
Lucas Ignition (to 1989)
#18
If this is the case then you have most likely disturbed something, possibly a connector. How I would approach this is, to start at the distributor and trace backwards checking every wire/lead and connector. You could also check continuity of wire by disconnecting BOTH ENDS and check end to end continuity.
#19
I am assuming the car ran before you replaced the loom. And the loom is injector only.
If this is the case then you have most likely disturbed something, possibly a connector. How I would approach this is, to start at the distributor and trace backwards checking every wire/lead and connector. You could also check continuity of wire by disconnecting BOTH ENDS and check end to end continuity.
If this is the case then you have most likely disturbed something, possibly a connector. How I would approach this is, to start at the distributor and trace backwards checking every wire/lead and connector. You could also check continuity of wire by disconnecting BOTH ENDS and check end to end continuity.
#20
Put a new coil in today... nothing! I noticed the wiring around the amplifier was crap and some were hanging by only a couple strands of copper... so I soldered up bad connections and reconnected it... nothing. Then I started poking around a bit with my test light. Still getting power to the coil. Then I poked around the amplifier that had some exposed areas. When I touched the test light to the spade connector from amp to harness. The amp would make a buzz noise and the fuel pump would kick on... is this normal? Did I create a circuit doing this? I'm so bad with electrics this is all new. Below is the connection I touched