Also, if I screwed up the injector harness I made... that wouldn't make a difference in getting no spark? That harness isn't connected to the amplifier in anyway?

 

Those wires AT the Amp are terrible, and should be sorted properly, there is NO room for "near enough" here.

There is the well documented "shielded wire" at that area, and if it is damaged, and they do damage without human intervention, there will be NO Injector pulse at all. There are many, many threads in here on that shielded wire.

Inside that amp, there is a small cylinder condensor item. Held in place with a single PK screw. Remove it, throw it away, it is now OLD, and they leak to earth, and will kill the spark at some stage, maybe now. They were originally a noise suppressor, and as I said, no longer needed.

I am not familiar with the fuel pump coming to life by playing with wires here, or buzzing from the amp.

I reckon SLOW DOWN, and sort these wires once and for all, properly, and get this taped up stuff gone, and then the electrickery has half a chance of doing as designed.

Electrics is SIMPLE, just one wire at a time, and ensure the connections are solid and not touching other terminals or items etc.

 

thank you, grant. I didn't realize the wires ran further into the amp. I soldered right at the disintegrated inlet because I thought that's where the wiring ended(one of them was holding on by 2 copper strands).. I'm going to open it up tomorrow and redo it properly. I guess the part that is getting to me is the fact it started before I "did the Vee"... not very well mind you, but it was something. Maybe with all the removal of stuff and taping up those crappy wires, I severed something.

 

Taping damaged and crispy wires is a good idea, but can lead to other issues. The crispy wires of the engine bay of a 20+ year old V12 are against you 100%, and simply by moving a component or wire 2" for access is all it takes to kill it.

A lot of these suspect areas must have been disturbed by jut doing the EFI loom, so back to square one, and move forward, one wire at a time, as I said before.

The shielded wire is EFI pulse related, and even when you get spark, if that thing is damaged, the injectors will not pulse, sort of a "rock and a hard place" situation.

Looking at the other snaps, the wiring really does look a tad sad, and I reckon you have inherited a rewire of the engine bay. Not as bad as it sounds, just time consuming.

 

Well I'd say that's the problem....rotor is stuck

 

Spent the whole day trying to get this thing running. Replaced all the wires out of the amplifier and wires that go to the coil. I got nothing. So I opened the distributor and found the rotor stuck. I lubed it up and finally got some play. Put it back together and nothing. I tested power at the coil again.., I get power and then I hooked the test light on the output of the distributor and it lit, but a test light on a plug wire got nothing,
So I'm guessing something is still wrong with the distributor? I got movement of the rotor but it never snapped back. I could move it a few degrees forward and back but there was not a position it wanted to be in. It would stick wherever I left it. Really disappointing day... I thought I had it.

 

Carefully take that dizzy apart and lube it properly. The flash shield should not be fouling the rotor, either.
Check carefully, when apart, that the wires at the bottom that go to the pluig on the side of the amp are all Ok and connected to the unit at the bottom of the dizzy.

 

Greg is spot on.

Remove that rotor, and that is NOT as simple as pulling up.

The rotor have a habit of "growing" to the shaft, so please be careful, as other damage further down will really ruin your day.

I use Diesel Fuel, JUST A DROP OR 2, down the hole under the rotor, and WAIT, and work that rotor carefully. It may take a day or 2. Once free, a few drops of FULL Synthetic engine oil down that hole will suffice for 2 years max.

Since you have spark UT of the coil, but zero at the plugs, have a look at the carbon contact brush in the centre of the cap. This brush transfers the coil spark TO the rotor, then the rotor distributes it to the spark plug contacts inside the cap. These carbon brushes wear out, fall out, break up, and I have had 3 so far.

 

it did appear the wires were all properly connected when I was in there yesterday. I'm going to take it all apart again later today.

thats what I did yesterday was sprayed some penetrating oil down the shaft and worked it till it was loose, but like I said it didn't want to SnapBack once it was loose. I did put synthetic diff snake oil in it once it was free... the cap is brand new, the carbon brush should be in place correct? I'm thinking I'm going to try the old cap later today. I should've just bought a new rotor while I was piling on the parts, but the rotor looks ok.

 

Tried a new module today... nope. Im at a loss. It ran albeit crappy. Take it all apart and put it back together with mainly new parts and nothing.

 

Here is an Ignition system wiring diagram from my workshop manual.

It is sideways, and I am NOT clever enough to rotate it.

ONE wire at a time, and make sure its is wired correctly.

V12 ignition diagram.pdf


Amp wiring:

W =White, goes to +ve of the coil.
WB = White/Black stripe, goes to -ve of the coil.
WS =White/Slate spiral stripe, goes to Tacho.
WS = White/Slate???? and becomes the shielded wire TO pin #18 of the ECU, Ignition Pulse for EFI activation.
ANOTHER White on the coil +ve is the Ignition 12v supply.

 

???


1. I am not intimately acquainted with that distributor. But, as already stated, that rotor should not be scraping the vapor shield. And, to my eye, it seems to be missing a center contact from which to get spark to direct to the spark plugs.


2. Grant, I "stumbled on to a way to deal with photo attachments. Down load them. Open them. Now, you have mean to do some minor editing. Zoom and rotate very handy.


Carl

 

? The rotor seems to be fine? New one below

 

Thanks for the diagram.
i think the worst part is I might need to rip the whole Vee out to get to all the wires again. I did try to start it with the secondary coil unplugged and got nothing as well. I just don't understand why I seem to be getting power to the coil but nothing out of the old or new one. I mean the fueling side of things wouldn't interfere with no spark? If I wired up my injectors wrong with my new harness it's not going to effect no spark?

 

Back to the cap vs rotor issue. As you said, you got it to run, but crappily, it is getting spark. Wimpy yellow or crackling blue? I suspect the former.


Why? The carbon 'button' in the cap is worn so that it barely, if at all, brushes the rotor as intended. Spark jumps, looses volts at the weak point.


My old tech "tune up" box has a spark plug that I adapted for testing spark. A hose clamp attaches a lead for grounding the plug. I merely attach an HT to it and crank.


Son and I used it on my Jeep. Nice hot spark. No gas. Fixed the latter. Jeep up and running...


It has an issue, but, another day, and perhaps a different forum. Merely, radio noise!!!


Carl

 

oh no, I meant it was running a couple months ago before I took it all apart and replaced everything. Replace almost everything with new parts and won't start. Frustrating

 

No need to rip things apart.

Just slowly, carefully, work thru one wire at a time. The taped up wires still worry me. Once that insulation breaks down the copper goes to crap in a heartbeat, and then taping them together is more than likely joining circuits, and giving you nothing.

What is the voltage reading at the coil +ve. A test light is useless here, actual numbers are needed.

I still think you have wiring issues at the amp, and the loom from the distributor to the other side of the module.

If that wiring is shorting, as in to earth, or each other, the new module is probably dead.

Considering what would have been moved, pushed, pulled, for access to the EFI loom, these are the items that may have been damaged.

Once spark is established, then EFI pulse can be sorted if needed.

 

YUp. One at a time. I like to start with getting a nice hot spark. More often than not that fixes things.


Think of function. The distributor has a means of creating a signal. It is an on/off signal In turn, it is amplified. Hence the term "amplifier". In olden days accomplished by points and a condenser. Make and break.


So, if the + post on the coil has volts, it can be tested. Add a jump to the - post on the coil. It's other end goes to ground. But, it must be an on/off in quick sequence. A good coil will then produce HT!!!! One way is to use a coarse metal file. Touch one end to ground. Drag the - jump wire across it. That will simulate the make/break.


I'll stop there to allow 944 to implement and then report back for Grant.


Carl

 

well I'll probably need to get the throttle pedestal out to really get to the rear wires. That's where I had replaced some wires and connectors. A lot of the stuff taped now are connectors that I replaced and wrapped. I'll let you know in a couple days the voltage I get at the coil. I did test it like a week ago and got 12.3v. I guess that's where my confusion is at. I'm getting good voltage it seems to the coil.

 

This seems to be what I've tried doing a few times and every time it seems like the ground wire wants to dang near weld to the ground. I get a nice spark at the ground but not out of the coil.