I’ve been having a nasty problem with my ABS. It kept telling me something was seriously wrong with my front passenger wheel. I had the following codes:C1145 -

C1148 - front right wheel speed sensor

Sensor air gap

Wheel bearing free play

Sensor wheel geometry

C1259 - front right wheel speed sensor

Check sensor ring fitment

Sensor air gap

Wheel bearing free play

C1234 - front right wheel speed sensor

Check sensor ring fitment

Sensor air gap

So I took the wheel off to see if something was visibly wrong. I had previously cleaned the sensor, and cleared the codes, but eventually everything came back.

I popped the wheel off, then the caliper, then lastly, the rotor with the hub still attached to it. Even though I was excited to check the condition of the sensor rotor, I actually immediately noticed that the rear hub oil seal had failed. (CBC2858). I didn’t have that part on me, so I reassembled everything, but ju-u-u-ust before I did that, I ran my finger across the stub axle shaft, wiping away the grease, and I saw this:




That ring up by the larger bearing....that’s bad news, right?

 

I thought I might add that there was one (of three) loose bolt when I went to remove the rotor.... Its the top center bolt....which is a vague description. It's a short 19mm bolt that also attaches the steering arm which connects the tie rod (CBC7456) to the wheel.

Someone was there before me, rather after me, because it's no longer a "special bolt". The other two have holes through the head for safety wire. This one did not.

I had to have been in there a long time ago when I replaced the bearings.

 

The top bolt (steering arm to upright above the stub axle securing nut) is not lockwired. What was over that par of the stub where the wear "ring" is, is it the ABS signal ring?

 

I don't think so. The ABS Signal Ring seems to go over the bearing. The back of that signal ring (or sensor rotor) completes the seal that failed.

I think the hub is where that ring appears. It might be part of stub axle. I checked some parts sites, ones with pics, and it might be part of the stub itself!

​​​​​​https://www.jagbits.com/product/CCC5136-OE.html

​​​​​​https://www.ebay.com/itm/JAGUAR-DAIM...-/361928251617

 

stub axles tend to wear on the underside, any lip detected means its past its best and needs replacing ,

its a simple enough process, but some big boy tools are required to do DIY ,

stub axles are about £70 each and obviously a bearing set for each side you do ,

see here, Jaguar parts list direct
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

BB

 

You had me at big boy tools....I've replaced the bearings, but I did not remove the stub axle.

I'll take a second look when I go back in there with a new seal.

 

run your finger nail over the area, any lip all , top or bottom means its worn , ( use the sides which will not have any lip for comparison )and people try to tighten the tapered bearing to remove the slack, but it will never work and the bearing just gets hotter

removal needs either a 12 tone press , assembly is best done with the use of a freezer, put the stub axle in the freezer for 12 hours or more, and then it will drop into the carrier , as it warms back up it will grip hard

BB

 

Perhaps I am an idiot, but the only problem that I see so far is that the inner wheel bearing stuck to the spindle instead of staying in the hub. With the bearing still on the spindle, and grease all over everything, I cannot see a problem with the spindle. Remove the bearing, clean the spindle, then inspect it. At a minimum you will need a new grease seal. I don't know everything, but I was an ASE certified Master Mechanic for about 40 years.

 

Not that I know everything either but with tapered roller bearings, one inside and one outside, the inside one would always stay with the spindle as the bearing inside race is probably an interference fit on the spindle in order for it not to spin and gall the spindle. Being tapered, the hub would just move away from the bearing without restriction per design. The front bearings with two tapered bearings are pressed together and held with a little pressure from the large outside nut, hence the need for the bearings to be tapered. It appears the outside bearing might have spun a few times hence the worn lip showing.
If they were ball bearings in a sealed cage, you wouldn't be able to pull the hub out like he did so it's normal for a tapered bearing to stay on the spindle.

 

That certainly does not agree with my experience, having packed a lot of wheel bearings over the years. In almost all cases, the inner wheel bearing stays in the hub when the hub is removed. Normal practice is to have a slip fit of the bearing on the spindle. It would be very unusual to have an interference fit of the inner bearing on the spindle. Either way, I believe the OP needs to remove the inner bearing, clean the spindle to determine if he actually has a problem. I really do not see a problem in the photos.

 

I agree with you the OP needs to remove all the bearings and seals , clean the stub axle and determine if there is a worn ridge or not. The visible ridge we see would be for the outer bearing of course so we don't know what the axle looks like under the inner bearing..
I agree, the fit I was describing should have said a fit that should be tight enough that it doesn't spin on the axle but loose enough that you can remove it without a press or puller.

 

The pictured stub axle looks normal and the fact the inner bearing has stayed with the axle is a good sign. The "ring" close to the bearing is as machined and not wear.
It may or may not be normal for that race to come away with the hub on other vehicles but if that happens on the xjs it is almost a certainty your stub axles will be worn on the underside from inner race rotation.. Much better to have a tighter fit of race on axle. I don’t know if it was the plan but the type of seal used helps facilitate this.

 

the inner race is pressed on with a press onto the stub with the grease seal behind it , and does not come off when removing, such as the picture , this is normal

you will destroy this race if you attempt to remove,

however ,this race can slip causing wear, facilitating its removal and the pressing on of a new inner bearing race

the stub axle wears on the underside because the weight of the car sits on that surface directly , and poor adjustment and age/miles related wear causes this , this is also normal and a trait of this kind of bearing design where the service requires regular adjustment , this is why modern cars have sealed ball bearing races in a cassette ,

but hey , a thousand people will have a thousand opinions, even 40 year timed severe ones compared to a 20 year ownership like mine,

pays your money , takes your chance

good luck

BB