ball Joints
#1
ball Joints
So, I've had to put my ball joints off for a few weeks because my landlady watches our parking spaces like a hawk, but I've gotta tackle them. How difficult are they to do on these cars? Could I theoretically tackle them at a friend's garage in a night? Any tips from you pros? I'm swapping in the XJ40 style units.
#2
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#3
You really need (IMO) a spring compressor to do the bottom ones, the top ones can be done with the spring pan's weight on a solid stand or block. Getting them out of their tapers is the worst part, well worth reading the great Palm book for tips. Note carefully where the shims each side of the top wishbones go and ensure they go back where they were, also the direction the bolt heads are in on the top wishbones, the wrong way and they foul.
Also, worth changing the top wishbone inner bushes while you are at it, these are very easy to do, if you have not done them recently.
Greg
Also, worth changing the top wishbone inner bushes while you are at it, these are very easy to do, if you have not done them recently.
Greg
Last edited by Greg in France; 08-04-2016 at 01:54 AM.
#4
You really need (IMO) a spring compressor to do the bottom ones, the top ones can be done with the spring pan's weight on a solid stand or block. Getting them out of their tapers is the worst part, well worth reading the great Palm book for tips. Note carefully where the shims each side of the top wishbones go and ensure they go back where they were, also the direction the bolt heads are in on the top wishbones, the wrong way and they foul.
Also, worth changing the top wishbone inner bushes while you are at it, these are very easy to do, if you have not done them recently.
Greg
Also, worth changing the top wishbone inner bushes while you are at it, these are very easy to do, if you have not done them recently.
Greg
While I'm not saying it's a great idea, I was able to remove/install my lower ball joints (1996 XJS) by placing a floor jack under the spring pan and jacking the car up about an inch above the jack stand. Of course, I was working inside my garage on a flat concrete floor, the park brake was engaged and I blocked the rear tires. I won't vouch for safety, only efficiency and effectiveness, which were both 10 out of 10 in my opinion.
#5
Not sure what kind of car you have, or whether it even matters.
Go get yourself some OEM upper control arm bushings and plan to do those at the same time. Should only add a little more time per side and worth doing.
Go buy yourself some Lemdoerfer ball joints. They are OEM without the Jaguar price!
Lastly, you may want to change out your tie rod ends. No need for OEM, just buy a quality brand.
While you're doing those, make sure you spend a little bit of time to remove the ABS Sensors and clean those out.
Man, I forgot what size wrenches and sockets you'll need, but the heaviest used ones were definitely the 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm. You'll need those in socket and wrench forms.
Forgot if you'll need and SAE sized wrenches, but you'll figure it out. First time? Set aside four hours for the first side, even though I know you'll do better than that. The other side should take you two.
The jack under the brake rotor worked for me, just make sure the car is on a stand and not on a jack.
Go get yourself some OEM upper control arm bushings and plan to do those at the same time. Should only add a little more time per side and worth doing.
Go buy yourself some Lemdoerfer ball joints. They are OEM without the Jaguar price!
Lastly, you may want to change out your tie rod ends. No need for OEM, just buy a quality brand.
While you're doing those, make sure you spend a little bit of time to remove the ABS Sensors and clean those out.
Man, I forgot what size wrenches and sockets you'll need, but the heaviest used ones were definitely the 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm. You'll need those in socket and wrench forms.
Forgot if you'll need and SAE sized wrenches, but you'll figure it out. First time? Set aside four hours for the first side, even though I know you'll do better than that. The other side should take you two.
The jack under the brake rotor worked for me, just make sure the car is on a stand and not on a jack.
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Greg in France (08-10-2016)
#6
Thanks for all your help guys, I got the drivers side in last night. Was a bear of a job, mostly because I was so tired. I have a feeling the passenger's side is gonna be a breeze. However I now have a new rattling noise when I go over bumps and steering wanders a hair. No noise is heard when turning. I torqued the joints to 48Ft-lbs. Should I have gone to the full 55?
#8
#9
#10
#11
Thanks for all your help guys, I got the drivers side in last night. Was a bear of a job, mostly because I was so tired. I have a feeling the passenger's side is gonna be a breeze. However I now have a new rattling noise when I go over bumps and steering wanders a hair. No noise is heard when turning. I torqued the joints to 48Ft-lbs. Should I have gone to the full 55?
Last, have you verified that you have all of your tools? Are your upper shock bushings still serviceable (those will clunk when they have given up the ghost)?
#12
#13
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Are you sure? I didn't think the new ball joint would even come close to fitting with the old seat in place. If someone was there before you the old seat may have already been removed.
Anyhow, if the old seats are there you gotta go back in fix that!
Cheers
DD
Anyhow, if the old seats are there you gotta go back in fix that!
Cheers
DD
#14
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