best repair manual for V12?
#1
best repair manual for V12?
I picked up an 83 XJS convertible with 28,000 original miles on it. The interior and body is in near perfect condition other than the paint is crap and the vinyl top is deteriorating.
The down side is that it doesn't run. There is water (white foam) in the dipstick, so my first guess is probably a blown head gasket. These engines are prone to that, correct?
The first thing I plan to do is pull the plugs and do a compression test, then start pulling it apart, but I'd like to have a good manual as a guide. What is the easiest to get? What is the best? Anything I should know before I begin?
The down side is that it doesn't run. There is water (white foam) in the dipstick, so my first guess is probably a blown head gasket. These engines are prone to that, correct?
The first thing I plan to do is pull the plugs and do a compression test, then start pulling it apart, but I'd like to have a good manual as a guide. What is the easiest to get? What is the best? Anything I should know before I begin?
#2
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The factory manuals are the best. Paper versions come up on Ebay fairly often. CD versions are available from JDHT (Jaguar Daimler Heritage Trust) or from reputable Jaguar vendors. Counterfeit copies of the CDs are common on Ebay. If you have Vista the CD versions may not work.
The V12s (is that what you have?) are not really known for blowing head gaskets although it can and does happen. They are more known for dropping valve seats due to running too hot
The six cylinder engines are a bit more known for head gasket failures.
Cheers
DD
The V12s (is that what you have?) are not really known for blowing head gaskets although it can and does happen. They are more known for dropping valve seats due to running too hot
The six cylinder engines are a bit more known for head gasket failures.
Cheers
DD
#3
What about Chiltons manuals?
Yes, it's a V12. I'm only guessing it's a head gasket because there is water on the dipstick. It sat for awhile and won't turn over, so I figured I'd pull the plugs and put penetrating oil down the cylinders, then carefully work the motor loose after it has sat for a bit. Once I've got it free, I was going to do the compression test and see which bank is bad.
Either way I'd pull both sides as long as I'm in there. I figure it's easiest to pull off the hood for easiest access?
Yes, it's a V12. I'm only guessing it's a head gasket because there is water on the dipstick. It sat for awhile and won't turn over, so I figured I'd pull the plugs and put penetrating oil down the cylinders, then carefully work the motor loose after it has sat for a bit. Once I've got it free, I was going to do the compression test and see which bank is bad.
Either way I'd pull both sides as long as I'm in there. I figure it's easiest to pull off the hood for easiest access?
#4
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Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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What about Chiltons manuals?
Yes, it's a V12. I'm only guessing it's a head gasket because there is water on the dipstick. It sat for awhile and won't turn over, so I figured I'd pull the plugs and put penetrating oil down the cylinders, then carefully work the motor loose after it has sat for a bit. Once I've got it free, I was going to do the compression test and see which bank is bad.
Either way I'd pull both sides as long as I'm in there. I figure it's easiest to pull off the hood for easiest access?
Yes, it's a V12. I'm only guessing it's a head gasket because there is water on the dipstick. It sat for awhile and won't turn over, so I figured I'd pull the plugs and put penetrating oil down the cylinders, then carefully work the motor loose after it has sat for a bit. Once I've got it free, I was going to do the compression test and see which bank is bad.
Either way I'd pull both sides as long as I'm in there. I figure it's easiest to pull off the hood for easiest access?
Pull the hood, yes. And you'll almost certainly need some sort of puller fixture to lift the heads off the studs. I think Motorcars LTD has them
Cheers
DD
#5
#6
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It's not that they are so heavy. It's that the aluminum heads combined with steel studs results in so much corrosion that the heads become seized to the studs.
Some guys use a puller, others don't. Worth a try pulling them without spending any money to buy or fabricate a puller
http://www.motorcarsltd.com/HEAD_PULLER-12.html
Cheers
DD
Some guys use a puller, others don't. Worth a try pulling them without spending any money to buy or fabricate a puller
http://www.motorcarsltd.com/HEAD_PULLER-12.html
Cheers
DD
#7
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#8
Hi Jamey
From what you say, you have the facilities to do engine rebuilds, so I would pull the engine out and rebuild. Either way, you have to do something with mayonnaise, (water), in the oil;the engine will soon be wrecked if this is not sorted out.
Reason you need a head puller is that like most traditional UK manufacturers, Jaguar uses head studs not bolts, so the head nuts easily come free leaving the heads to be pulled off the studs. With an open deck block, corrosion between steel stud and alloy head in the coolant "soup" means they glue themselves together. I would cost in a head-puller if I were you. Head studs are likely to be heavily corroded and in need of replacement.
Aworkshop manual is essential, and also a digital camera. Take pictures of everything before dismantling; you will find it a Godsend when reassembling. Workshop manuals never have a huge amount of detail on things like wiring and piping layouts, the phrase, "reassembly is a reverse of removal" is frequently seen !!! Can you remember ?
From what you say, you have the facilities to do engine rebuilds, so I would pull the engine out and rebuild. Either way, you have to do something with mayonnaise, (water), in the oil;the engine will soon be wrecked if this is not sorted out.
Reason you need a head puller is that like most traditional UK manufacturers, Jaguar uses head studs not bolts, so the head nuts easily come free leaving the heads to be pulled off the studs. With an open deck block, corrosion between steel stud and alloy head in the coolant "soup" means they glue themselves together. I would cost in a head-puller if I were you. Head studs are likely to be heavily corroded and in need of replacement.
Aworkshop manual is essential, and also a digital camera. Take pictures of everything before dismantling; you will find it a Godsend when reassembling. Workshop manuals never have a huge amount of detail on things like wiring and piping layouts, the phrase, "reassembly is a reverse of removal" is frequently seen !!! Can you remember ?
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