Hi

We looking for advice on some body repairs due to rust. What do people think is the best/most cost-effective option?
General bodyshop or specialist?

Needs the following:
Sills
Lower part of front wings.
Rear-wheel arches.

There is more, but we are looking at fixing them for starters.
How much should we be looking at for the above?
I was estimating £2K to £4K (only going as far as priming to protect the new metal).
At the moment, we are just looking at making the body solid. Underside needs a little bit of work, and that is next and will tackle that at the time.
Cheers in advance.
James

 

First thing is how quick do you want it done? Second is how much the cost matters. By that I mean if you want it doing lively and are prepared to pay I don’t think there would be much difference between a body shop or a specialist price wise. On the other hand if your in no rush and handy with a mig set don’t be scared to have a go your self. There is a guy on eBay who will make parts to suit your car at reasonable cost. Paul Pennell is his real name but I think he goes by dodworth on eBay. He is excellent and very helpful. The sills are fairly basic shape until you get to the ends but paul will make these for you. New old stock panels come up on e bay and sng Barratt and manners have some parts including floors. A good pair of front wings may prove a cheaper option than welded repairs? They only bolt on. It all depends on your finances and ability really. Fun really starts on the inner wings, hope there ok.

 

Take your mental budget and more than triple it once work actually starts. Nobody is trying to cheat you it’s just the actual work is often hidden and unseen until paint is removed. That’s assuming the car is a virgin with regard bodywork. Triple it again if others have been in there before.
Often the cheapest solution is to head over to America and pick up one of the many many rust free cars here. Even after shipping and import duty you’ll be miles ahead.
Here’s a quickie on the numbers. Over 50% of all Jaguars were sold here in America. While some years barely 10% of production stayed in England.
Much of America is dry, where rain is a rare event. Plus many cars were a successful persons reward for a lifetime of work. And treated as a prized possession. Not exposed to rain and put away during the winter. Finally stored in the garage unused.
You’d think you have to pay a premium for such gems. No! Nice running fine rust free examples often cost less than $10,000 US. And I’ve bought them under $3000. If you’re willing to sort out the running part $1000 or less is often the selling point.
But getting them running and properly serviced is easy compared to fixing rust.

 

Thanks for your advice.
One big problem with getting a US car. In the UK we drive on the wrong side of the road.
Premade panels over here in the UK are cheap. See https://xjspanelshop.co.uk/
We have already had a specialist look and quote mental prices and he will not let us know all that needs doing.
Luckily we know most of it and the aim is to get everything on the body looking better and then add to that fix any bits that were on the last MOT report as a failure.
While I am happy doing a lot of work on the car, I would rather a professional do the body panels that need welding. We just need a few spots cut out and replacement panels welded in.
Yes there will be stuff that appears once the visible rot is removed, but we can only cross that bridge when we get there. Plus, if its hidden then the repair does not need to look mint, so maybe I can get the welder out again.
Going to see a few local repairers this Friday. I will see what they say.
Cheers.

 

Forgot to say.......
The previous guys that looked at it know we are more than happy to work on it mechanically, maybe do a little welding and refurbing, however, they will not let us!!!!!!!! They said all in or nothing.
Amazing.

 

While tackling the swap over from left hand drive to right hand drive is not a weekend project. It’s much shorter than the body work will be. All the holes etc are already there. I suspect there are more than a few parts donors to select parts from.

 

To be honest it’s a nice idea to buy a rust free us example , but there it ends. As the poster said steering wheel on the wrong side negates most of the advantages . From my experience the bottom of the car is the worst affected area. The poster has already highlighted the main problem areas. My car had been stood in the elements for some time and all the areas that tend to go , had gone. Replacement front wings are available as are the panels that bolt to them. The name escapes me but not hard to find secondhand. From what the poster has said it strikes me he’s no complete novice and most of these repairs are very doable. Inner wings really need the engine out to do properly, but this then allows good access to loads of other jobs! Depends how far you want to go. When I first looked under the bonet I thought what have I done buying this. Now with the help of the forum I have car I know all about. Grant gave me a list of instructions for removing the engine off the top of his head. Messaged me again the next day to say he’d forgot something! If your in no rush have a go yourself. You can always stop and then find a pro. Plenty of friendly people on here that will guide you. Perhaps it’s me being from Yorkshire that doesn’t want to spend owt lol.




some of my efforts.

 

James,

I'd politely suggest that ALL of the work and money is not in what you've seen, but in what you haven't seen that lies behind.

If you've got visible rust in the lower wings, it is extremely likely that rot has emanated from the tops of the sills, and may have extended to the A-post and bulkhead. You also have to assume that the hidden inner wing behind the spring towers is already happening.
If you've got visible rust in the sills, it could be into the inner sills and into the edges of the floorpans. You also have to assume that the seatbelt mounts and radius arm body attachments are going.
If there's visible rust in the rear wheelarch, it will extend into the inner arch, and if it's low at the rear, it will be into the rear corner valance.

Unfortunately, I've never seen an XJS that just needed a few rust bubbles attending to. And if you just gloss over the visible exterior bits, you've got a bigger problem in 12 months time. It's also why a lot of decent places won't give you a quote until it's stripped down.

I'd either do it once and do it all properly (and it's not cheap), or move it on and buy a better version.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

Cheers

Paul

 

Nothing to lose by cutting into it and seeing what's what! Worst case scenario you have a parts car, which is very useful to have.

 

Hi, thanks.
It's not just a case of a few rust bubbles attending to and I did not really say that. It's more that the rust on the surface of the body I would rather have a professional repair to a good standard. Rust on the inner wings etc I am ok working with, cutting, and fabricating new sections. It's the visible stuff I was more concerned with as I am not sure I want to touch that. I am expecting to find more areas that need work, it all just depends how much as to whether it is worth it.....

Sadly I just lost an XJ8 due to unbelievable levels of rot that had been camouflaged. I would prefer not to lose this.

Thanks

 

This is encouraging for sure. It's partly on the lines of the plan I am thinking of.

Tackle what I can and sub out what is out of my comfort zone.

Cheers

 

Thats it! Most of what you will face is not particularly visible. As I said mainly round the bottom of the car. Take your time and do as much as you can yourself. When it starts getting to you, which it will, shut the garage door and walk away. You can do it!