Whilst executing a repair on my bonnet I observed that the two catches on the bonnet are at different angles. Logic tells me that the pin and the plate should be in the same horizontal plane, that the 'pin' should not face down(or up) toward the bonnet (hood for the US visitors).

I reckon slamming or dropping the bonnet bent them ? - the images below aren't my car - note that the top image the pin is almost in the same plane - but the bottom looks more like a hook probably from being slammed or dropped. Berfore I straighten mine out just how should they look






And mine looks more like the last image - the hook - please ignore the paint job with the primer it is quick and dirty because the bonnet lives outside presently not on the car.- the bonnet catch was left in place as a grounding point for the welder.



Rusty crusty section cut out, area behind treated to a thorough clean and weld through primer followed by insertion of repair, stitch welding and tidy up - two pinholes were also welded which you can just see.



The whole bonnet will be up ended and the channels flooded with Aqua steel, bonnet will then be left for a few weeks for that to do its job before final paint - the underside will be done fully off the car and unlike Jaguars finish it will get clear coat before sound / heat proof material is applied to the surface. There were many areas under the bonnet that had considerable rust and pitting thanks to the super absorbant sponge stuff installed by Jaguar. Although it can't be seen 60% of the bonnet is now in primer, the shrinkage seen is because the Aqua steel had not fully cured so I rushed it a bit, but all this will be getting sanded back anyhow.

 

Nice work Ben. As to bonnet catches, here is my experience:

• The one on your bonnet is bent; in principle the bonnet fixings should be parallel, but:
• The actual catches fixed to the bulkhead are adjustable, but they are fixed with rubbishy giant-poxi-headed bolts. The first thing to do is to change these for hex heads - if you can get the pozis undone..
• The bonnet fixings are also adjustable, as they are slotted.
• Even at the catches maximum downward adjustment, in my case the bonnet when closed was still proud of the scuttle;
• I removed the bonnet catches and using a large vice I squeezed them to reduce the step height (you can in the other direction, also place spacers under them to increase that height).
• Centralising the bonnet catch so it is directly above the centre of the bulkhead "parrot's beak" catch (technical term copyright G Francis) is also important. This ensures the bonnet is not pulled sideways or otherwise stressed when you close the bonnet catches.
• The rubber headed bolts that the bonnet closes against each side in the scuttle corners need to be carefully adjusted too, so the bonnet is not too tight on them (which stresses the cable mechanism on the closing lever) and not too loose so the catches and bonnet fittings can play.
• Basically you mess about for hours getting the entire system nice. Curiously satisfying ever-after, each time you close the bonnet!

The skill of the Jaguar workforce putting these things together simply defies belief. Ditto hanging the doors; in an interview one line worker was quoted as follows: "take a Japanese car, you could throw the door at it from 10 feet and it would fit, with the XJS it took 10 minutes to get a reasonable fit, and then when you put the electrics into the door, you would have to do it again!".

 

Ben,

I echo all of Greg's great comments there. The XJS bonnet lock system is an invitation for abuse from inconsiderate owners, garages and dealers. Watch any TV programme featuring an XJS and you'll see the presenter holding the bonnet from the corner (thus twisting it) and then slamming it. You should always hold an XJS bonnet in the middle and gently lower it (not easy unless you have long arms) And even on the later "drop-lock" models, you only need to drop the last few inches if the locks are adjusted correctly. The trick is not to let anyone else shut your bonnet!

Jaguar also did themselves no favours by introducing a locking system that required the bonnet to be gently positioned down and then manually locked with the lever. And then later changing the system to be a "drop-lock" mechanism! No wonder people get confused! The potential for the locks to get accidentally shut in operation whilst the bonnet is open, also causes damage when people try to shut the bonnet against a locked catch. And then the pins get bent as well..

IME, the pins get bent but their mounts don't move. Whereas the latch mounts fractionally move over time, especially if mis-used.

Good work on the welding!

Cheers

Paul

 

Appreciated all - so sounds like fun times ahead. I detest those PZ4 or PH4 whatever they are - they're the creation of satan I don't know who thought they were a good idea, way back when in my early career we used to get doors fitted with those things. I don't even attempt them by hand anymore I reach straight for the impact and even then I've stripped out a few but the impact is more successful than any other means for me. I'm replacing them on the headlight 'adjusters', all the stupid self tappers on the front apron etc - I ended up cutting some of those off to get at the front air dam / splitter and where the front corners fit the wings were a real challenge because you can't get square on them. (I have brand new panels to fit).

I will get the catches done while it is easy to work in there.