I have a 1996 XJS with the Teves IV system and I flushed my brakes for the first time today. I used the Harbor Freight Pneumatic Brake Bleeder with Auto-Refill Kit.

Obviously things didn't go as planned, or I wouldn't be here.

I seemed to have no problem getting everything to work flawlessly on the passengers side, both rear and front. The tool pulled fluid without any surprises or issues. I even managed to remove the bleeder screws and apply a wrap of teflon. The rear brake had the car on (not engine) with a bar holding the brake pedal down. For the front the car was still on, (listening to the radio) but the brake pedal was no longer depressed.

I followed the order of rear passenger first, then rear driver, then front passenger, then front driver.

The amount of bubbles that I was pulling from the drivers side (both front and back) was unbelievable. I know I was using everything correctly because I did not have that issue on the other side of the car! I thought perhaps more teflon, but it didn't help.

There are no leaks. The car drives and brakes as it should. I knew I was going to have pads that needed replacing because the brake light started popping up. I never add fluid to it, so I figured the front, or rear pads needed changing, and sure enough, the front pads were done. (I got that done as well)

Lastly, I did notice that the outer pad on the front passengers side looked like it still had half of its life left, whereas the inner pad was on its last legs. The drivers side seemed to show pads wearing consistently. Do I need to put a caliper rebuild on my to do list?

 

Uneven pad wear is usually an indication of a caliper problem, one both pistons may be seized on one side. Very common. I never had luck vacuum bleeding brakes. Always seem to be bubbles for some reason for me too.

This thing in the link below is the best bleeding device I have ever used. Nothing better. I use a common water bottle as a catch tank and put a hole in the cap so the hose fits snug.

 

ICSA: I could not agree more! Son or wife pressing the pedal, and that piece of kit. Everything else just does not do it.
I would only add that a (inboard) rear remote bleeder kit from these people is the best brake mod I have ever done.
Remote Bleed Kit for Jaguar IRS Brakes - Fosseway PerformanceFosseway Performance
I bought everything on this page, brass adaptors and all, it means the actual brake calliper parts never have to be touched, thus removing all the guastly nipple problems. I still use your apparatus though, even with the easybleed remote nipples!

 

Hi Vee

Way back in the early days when I was restoring 50 Shades my Grey XJS I had white smoke coming out from under the front wheel arch, which in part was caused by a stuck brake pad in the Caliper and I was very lucky not to have the Car Catch fire

Where having made it back to base, 'Greg' gave me an excellent tip which was to shave a few though off the sides of the metal backing plate of the Brake Pads, which I still do to day whenever I fit New ones

You can read all about it here which includes some photos:

Shaving The Sides Of The Metal Backing Plates Of The Brake Pads For The Perfect Fit

 

I have installed Stahlbus bleeder valves to my motorcycles and there is nothing easier.
Never worry about air bubbles again.

The stahlbus® bleeder valve
Jaguar list XJ
http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/prod...clearfilters=0

You remove the old nipple, screw in the Stahlbus (German quality) and NEVER unscrew them from the caliper again unless its to rebuild.
The top unscrews and allows fluid to escape, internal spring and ball bearing stop the air... not cheap...$30 USD each




Attached hose and put it in to a jar, pump the peddle - tighten - done.
I have made my own vacuum bleeder that sucks the fluid through, works mint and uses compressed air.

1 x Jar
1 x Pneumatic button
1 x Pneumatic vacuum generator
Hose and fitting
Gauge - not needed.





Jar is full and needs emptying, the level can reach the top of the vacuum hose.
Cost was nothing but old parts.

 

Hi Duke

I've never seen Brake Fluid that dirty!

Did it come out of your new XJS?

 

Haaa that made me think.... I have not used it for a while.
NO that is not brake fluid, I used it to drain a tank - so its a mixture of oil and fuel from memory.

It will be cleaned before the next brake job.
I have not done the XJS yet, need to buy these nipples first.

 

Uggg... the old German superiority trope. Nothing could be less true. No doubt the Germans like and enjoy machining precise and expensve things and I never underestimate people's willingness to pay for that. From the Panzer's fragile final drive to today's diesel gate I have no idea why this trope persists. Precise and expensive doesn't always add up to practical and effective.

As a practical matter the tiny and week spring in the check valve doesn't offer enough resistance to do anything commensurate with it's price. I've come across them and found them no more effective than gravity bleeding, certainly quicker though. That's where the magic of the separate and off the car one-way valve exists. It's large enough to house a stiff spring which helps generates higher system pressures which in turn helps the bleeding process.

Some modern cars do need pressure bleeding, the circuitous route of the brake lines can trap air bubbles. German cars are famous for this. They burry the ABS pump low and / or in an out of the way place and link it with long and bendy lines which create places to trap air bubbles. For these cars a simple master cylinder replacement necessitates a longish and specific bleed operation which includes the use of a pressure bleed device and a scan tool.