Bronze rear axle fulcrum bushings
#1
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Has anyone ever heard of or had experience of these items?
Team CJ system bronze
What I cannot understand is which surface of the bearing is meant to take the rotational movement, the outer or the inner. In the case of the hub carrier (lower wishbone outer fulcrum) if it is the outer surface, then the ally hub will wear If it is the inner surface of the bearing I would have thought the bronze will wear against the fulcrum pin?
For the inner fulcrum, the same thing applies, so what is the advantage of them?
Team CJ system bronze
What I cannot understand is which surface of the bearing is meant to take the rotational movement, the outer or the inner. In the case of the hub carrier (lower wishbone outer fulcrum) if it is the outer surface, then the ally hub will wear If it is the inner surface of the bearing I would have thought the bronze will wear against the fulcrum pin?
For the inner fulcrum, the same thing applies, so what is the advantage of them?
Last edited by Greg in France; 11-21-2019 at 08:40 AM.
#2
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Can't say as I actually see any advantage, and they are quite a bit more expensive than replacement bearings. I looks to me that it is a greased joint and the bronze rotates against the aluminium hub carrier. However, I don't see any seals, so I don't know what would keep water and dirt out of the greased joint and prevent it from becoming grinding paste.
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darrhel (11-22-2019)
#3
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Can't say as I actually see any advantage, and they are quite a bit more expensive than replacement bearings. I looks to me that it is a greased joint and the bronze rotates against the aluminium hub carrier. However, I don't see any seals, so I don't know what would keep water and dirt out of the greased joint and prevent it from becoming grinding paste.
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darrhel (11-22-2019)
#4
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I've disassembled many an IRS. I've noticed on 70's and 80's IRS' the needle bearings on the LFA's tend to flat spot and get notchy. The movement is so limited that just 3 or 4 small needles bear all the load. I dont think its dangerous or would matter much in daily driving but it's another item that needs to be maintained. I've not noticed this on mid 90's IRS with outboards, they've been improved in so many ways. Perhaps the materials, seals or grease was improved at some point. This is another reason I respect the late outboard IRS.
All that said the bronze set seems convenient and simple. Especially so if you have lost a few needles during disassembly and cleaning for a rebuild. If someone was rebuilding an IRS and needed a few new needles becasue of loss or wear I would suspect it wouldn't be easy to find them. I can also see how many guys who've put a Jag IRS in their hotrod might find this "kit" of replacement bushing appealing especially so if it was chromed or powder coated.. It's fewer parts and cleaner. Is it effective and durable?...I dont know but I'd consider a set if I was rebuilding an IRS becasue those needles can really slow ya' down.
All that said the bronze set seems convenient and simple. Especially so if you have lost a few needles during disassembly and cleaning for a rebuild. If someone was rebuilding an IRS and needed a few new needles becasue of loss or wear I would suspect it wouldn't be easy to find them. I can also see how many guys who've put a Jag IRS in their hotrod might find this "kit" of replacement bushing appealing especially so if it was chromed or powder coated.. It's fewer parts and cleaner. Is it effective and durable?...I dont know but I'd consider a set if I was rebuilding an IRS becasue those needles can really slow ya' down.
Last edited by icsamerica; 11-22-2019 at 08:06 AM.
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ronbros (11-22-2019)
#6
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Greg in France (11-23-2019)
#7
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How do they work, exactly, please? Which surface take the movement, the out against the aluminium hub carrier, or the inner against the pin?
Does Norm do both ends of the wishbone?
Also, what are the wear characteristics of the fitment in service?
Greg
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ronbros (11-23-2019)
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#8
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Cheers AOI
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Greg in France (11-23-2019)
#10
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They will never wear out.
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ronbros (11-25-2019)
#11
#13
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I didn't do it, but when I was rebuilding my rear cage I was very tempted to take my calipers and find a bushing from the catalog that would fit. I get the reason for bearings but in my mind bushings would be the way to go.
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Greg in France (01-27-2022)
#14
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I made some when I did my cage. The factory system has two outer rings with a shared inner ring. I kept the steel inner ring and made a set of outer rings. I made it a close sliding fit on the inner ring and copied whatever dimension the OD of the outer ring was. I have only driven the car after I did this, and not very far if I'm honest, but it seems to work.
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Greg in France (01-27-2022)
#15
#17
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I’m rebuilding my IRS right now. My focus was just the brakes, but cleaning and lubricating. I after reading about the IRS rebuilding process I really didn’t want to mess with bearings, shims and bushings. However, to get the brake disks off I had to pull the swing arms ( I was very careful with the axle shims). When you do that all the trailing arm washers just kind of fly out, but I figured out the three part seals and washers. I cleaned and inspected the needle bearings- they seemed fine so I lubricated them and have it all back together now. Hope I didn’t mess anything up, but Swing arm pivots smoothly. I can’t imagine why I would need bronze bushings.
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Greg in France (01-30-2022)
#18
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In New England at least, the needle bearings rust from road salt and poor maintenance. Then they seize, and the shaft wears an oval hole into the bearing itself. When it gets bad enough you will feel the rear end twitch as the lower control arms move around the shaft in the oval hole. It will toss the car from the rear in a most disconcerting way! Theoretically the bronze bushes will never rust and this problem car be averted. But there’s no way in hell I’m ever buying anything from those a-holes at CJ again. Turkeys.
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