I may have to do my car's cam cover gaskets as they like to drip under load...which is often. if the shop is doing all the work to get down to that level what ELSE should I do while there? No limit on items might as well 'do it all, do it right' I just don't know off hand what is accessible from that point?

 

"D" seals at the rear of each tappet block, the OE type, OR, the modified style, Never used the modified style, the OE with a GOOD smear of Hi-Temp RTV have lasted me for 20 years.

Inlet gaskets

Fuel hoses, ALL.

Water rail "top hat" seals, much easier with the Inlets off.

Spark plugs, if they are getting to used by date.

Oil switches.

 

Vacuum hoses.

Repair any crispy wires in the area. There will be plenty.

Replace fuel injection harness

Make sure distributor vacuum and mechanical advance is working of you have Lucas ignition

If doing spark plugs, might as well change the wires, too, if there's any doubt to their age

Cheers
DD

 

Jaguar issued TSB.

bob

 

Water rail top hat? Will add D plugs to the list.

Spark plugs/wires/dist at the 60k mark so its on the other regular service list along with a nice reel of vacume hose. Everything else has been done or renewed.

Is this deep enough to do valve stem seals? Or other bits like that?

I was also wondering given the oil leak pattern if you'd suspect crank seal if dripping and oil blowback onto exhaust is more on passenger side including drops running down the trans modulator line? I really don't want to do the rear seal, hoping and praying its a combinaton of upper oil pan (sandwhich) gasket and the cam covers. Stupid pcv valve (new) still doesnt stop oil pooling in air intake box but thats not as bad.

 

Vancouver
Valve stem seals are a head-off job, and not necessary.
The rear crank seal will be fine, again quite unnecessary.
Oil at the rear will be one of: oil senders (most likely); D seal at the rear of the cam cover (also most likely); actual can cover gasket which was probably cork from the factory. Ensure you use the new OEM gortex (black coloured) cam cover gasket. In addition the actual bolts that hold the cam covers are a bit short (the Great Palm warns us) and buying new stainless ones about 8 mmm longer, with allen key heads and using wide washers, is a great idea. i did this and apart from not using stainless - which I wish I had - it holds the gasket seal perfectly.
The OEM PCV valve will always allow oil to get into the airbox, it is part of its design, there is a pathway into the airbox as well as into the valve. The metal piece inside the airbox that the PCV pipe from the B bank outlet fits onto provides two pathways, into the valve and into the airbox.
Finally, you will almost certainly have leaks from the join between the tappet block (the casting that sits on the head and carries the camshaft) and the actual head. This is a gasketless joint from the factory, and even though oil in the area is merely running back to the sump, it seeps out right above the exhaust. Apart from heads-off and using a modern Loctite-type flange sealer, the only thing you can do is what I did on advice, which is very carefully clean the outside of the casting at at the join, rough up the surfaces and apply special high temperature silicon sealer. Astonishingly this has held up on my car perfectly for 8 years and counting, pic attached.
The top hat seals are each end of the water rail (blue in photo) and seal the water manifold casting/tube joint. If you do these be very careful when undoing the water rail casting bolts, as they can shear quite easily. If they come out OK I would replace them with stainless or high tension steel ones.

 

Can I paypal you for a drink, that was possibly the most informative thing I've seen all week. Yes exactly where you siliconed it I've got damp oil, rear D plugs yes quite wet, had similar problem on the front now that I think about it.

This picture actually shows the likely problem areas clearly, I thought about getting the oil sending unit pictured here, but ya those lines that bolt into the engine are wet to, its just really hard to tell where the bad drip comes from as you can't watch while doing 4500rpm up a hill.

 

I fully expect to win the lottery tomorrow, in which case I shall arrive in Western Canada in my private jet and graciously allow you to buy it in person. My car will have been, for comparative and illustrative purposes, transported by Jumbo to your local airport. I shall of course be accompanied by The Great XJS Prophet of the Southern Cross, and Madame Francis together with their retinue of assistants, and the Sage of Seattle will also be invited. Between us the bar bill will be substantial, but at the end of the visit your car will be superb!
That Rob Beere unit is wonderful, http://www.rob-beere-racing.co.uk/pictures/DSCF2369.jpg but you cannot fix it to A bank cam feed engine in car! FWIW, I doubt the cam feed banjos are the problem. But there is one in my future, that is for sure!

 

Am I correct in assuming 6.0L gaskets are always gortex and backwards compatible? The best I can go on is the price differential, and photo on supplier websites, assuming its the correct photo but part #num seems to carry through.

 

Yes. Jaguar only sell the Gortex type now, as do David Manners etc.

 

after dealing with the cam cover gaskets, i resorted to NO GASKET , cleaned up surfaces RTV let set 15minutes, RTV the Dseal and bolted it down NO leaks for last 10 yrs!

my thinking is without the gasket the , cover pushes the D seal down tighter with more pressure and cover has less chance to move around!


pic and i havent cleaned the engine in 2-3 yrs! altho memory says i used the sealer jag recommended for tappet block-head(darn cant remember also recommended by Mazda for there Rotary engines).
ron